Starter is thrashing my Flywheel

OK for some reason... my starter will sometimes engage... sometimes not. most of the time it wont.. it tries... like it is gonna crank but then it like just falls outa mesh with the teeth... like it starts cranking then just a kinda pop and then a grind... this is the 3rd starter it is brand new... it it not the starter... however i do npot have it shimmed i was told they didnt have to be...but i tried shimming it anyway.. to no avail... however i ddint have the right shims so i kinda jimmy rigged it... so it boils to 2 questions... one can someone take a pic of their starter on their manual trans... i have the 1992 mini starter... OEM if somone could post up a pic with it plugged in with all the lines to it that would help and also where can i pick up[ the right shimms? autozone doesnt have it nor does ford... any ideas? thanks in advance!
 
if you still have the thin metal plate between the block and tranny that should be your shim.if not they do sell a the shim you need at autozone,i dont have a pic but it is just a round shim that fits all the way around your stater.its usually in the help section.
 
The plate is a 'block plate' and it is NEEDED to shim the starter properly.. Get one on ebay for $20.. Also, I have seen the bendix (sp?) on starts go bad, and cause the same thing you describe, but I can't imagine it happening on three starts in a row..
 
I've got no idea what everyone is talking about with these "shim plates". There's are no shims on my car or any other Fox 5oh that I ever remember seeing. Unless it's something you guys are using just for the mini-starter swap then there shouldn't be any shim. I use the tried and true stock Motorcraft heavy lump starter. GTG :nice:

Other things that can cause the kinds of problems you're talking about are:

Weak battery
Fenderwell start solenoid weak or in poor condition
Dirty or coroded power and/or ground wires and connections. Same applies to the solenoid trigger wire.

The way that wiring is done for a mini-starter can also have an effect. If you have the mini-starter wired like stock, it can sometimes cause trouble.

Wire the mini directly to the battery. Run only the trigger wire to the switched side of the start solenoid. The reason behind all of that is that the mini has it's own piggy back solenoid. The voltage drop from turning the starter over can sometimes be enough to cause momentary disconnects in one of the TWO solenoids that you're now trying to power at the same time.

Good Luck. :)
 
Some of the aftermarket mini starters use shims to achieve correct bendix to ring gear meshing (a la Chevies).

I like all the above advice - make sure those connections are clean and strong. A few attempts like have been made (with the starter chunking around) can latch or damage the solenoid contacts (they weld closed and then break apart).

Good luck.
 
my block plate is a lil banged up in the starter mounting area... i didnt think enough to be a prob but i will get a new block plate off ebay and also try the wiring the starter direct to the batt... how do i do this? isnt the starter suppoesdto be grounded i have only a black ground wire from the - battery and then a thin 8g wire to the fenderwall mounted solenoid ignition post...
can I get a pic of one hooked up?
 
JerryDaugherty said:
my block plate is a lil banged up in the starter mounting area... i didnt think enough to be a prob but i will get a new block plate off ebay and also try the wiring the starter direct to the batt... how do i do this? isnt the starter suppoesdto be grounded i have only a black ground wire from the - battery and then a thin 8g wire to the fenderwall mounted solenoid ignition post...
can I get a pic of one hooked up?

It sounds as if your starter is hooked up correctly. I can only guess (without seeing it) that the black wire you mention is the power wire. Look to see whether it's going to the positive terminal (I believe that it is). It's just the wrong color. The thin wire you mentioned is the trigger wire and it SHOULD be going to the switched side of the fender mounted start solenoid.

Check to ensure that the wiring is in fact, correct. Replace the terminals and/or wires that look even the least bit questionable. Replace the fendermounted solenoid as well (I think it'll cost you a whopping $8). If that black wire is in fact, the power wire then you may want to swap it out anyway with a red one of the 4 ga. variety.
 
The starter should achieve ground through the motor to chassis ground. Adding an additional ground can help with this.

Good luck.