Hello everyone, New to this page here.
I have a 1990 Mustang 5.0 ( manual T-5)
I just replaced the starter with a brand new SVE high torque mini starter from LMR. I also put in a new fender mount solenoid.
When I go to start the car, it makes a loud rubbing / grinding noise. It’s not the same noise as when the starter is grinding on the teeth, so I’m thinking maybe it’s rubbing it somehow. I don’t know what else to try. The car cranked PERFECTLY the first 2 times I tried to start the car right after I installed the new starter. After the 3rd time it started making a weird grinding / rubbing noise.
Any suggestions? I was Told that it could be my distributor gear that’s broke, I’m not getting enough power to the starter to make the bendix gear fully engage and I’ve heard that the starter is bad. I don’t know what to do, I’m in Phoenix/ Glendale, Az & cannot find a shop or individual that can help because I bought the parts.
BELOW IS A VIDEO OF WHAT THE NOISE IT MAKES. If the video doesn’t work, I have a video on my Instagram @jjaaywoz
THANK YOU! I’ll keep everyone updated
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Yes, little tiny scratch marks. So I turned the motor by hand yesterday and cranked it again and the motor actually cranked and turned this time but still made the grinding noise. Unlike before when it was JUST the grinding. Would that mean the flywheel?

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
polk county florida
If it didn't make noise before the starter swap then no, seems like I remember another starter grinding issue around here before. IIRC they had a starter from LMR too,
You didn't say where on the starter the scratches were.
You can get those starters from the neighborhood parts store or Rockauto. ..


Active Member
Dec 17, 2021
What does the original starter do and have you checked the bellhousing bolts to see if theyre tight?

One time out of left field my flywheel bolts loosened and it happened when I started my vehicle and let it warm up for 10 mins...My bottomend knocked pretty loudly pretty quickly like I had a loose rod cap or a bad wristpin bearing...pulled the whole engine to find the flywheel was loose and yes I used Loctite...LOL

Whats funny about loctite red is when its cold the hardware is set for life....When I want to remove heavily loctited bolts easily I use heat from a plumbers turbo torch to liquify it..I bet some will get where this is going...

Meld the fact that loctite isnt heat resistant with a few of the crank bolt holes on the Scatt stroker crank that seeped a lil oil from being drilled and tapped too deep and on those bolts the loctite turned into a jelly-like composition that wasnt even sticky anymore...It was more waxy and slick...

Good Luck