Starts, but dies at idle. Help.

Tolerances for those types of valves and fittings aren't exactly great. The gauge may work fine on one valve but may not quite push the pin down far enough to open another one - obviously you've got some fuel pressure or the car wouldn't run at all.

Honestly, this sounds like the exact same thing I go through with the lawn mower every spring if I forget to run the tank dry in the fall before it gets put up for the winter - it barely starts, it'll keep running only if I hit the primer every once-in-a-while or spray something flammable in the carb, it stumbles and runs rough, it dies over and over, it'll run for a little while and then it stops running all together and won't start again. At that point I finally give in and drain it and clean the spark plug off and then once I fill it up with fresh gas, it magically runs great.

I vote to drain the tank, flush the lines, change the filter, make sure the plugs aren't fouled and put some fresh gas in there.

Not sure if this is going to help but here goes.

When i installed my termi pumps i hd no clue that i had two pin hole leaks in the orange fuel lines by the pumps. The car would have a hard start, start sometimes then not. Turn the key to start, nothing, turn key again, fire. It would also lose fuel pressure and die off. The car would also idle and if i tried to give it gas it would just die or sputter.

What i found was the low fuel pressure was tripping the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor on the drivers side fuel rail.

Instead of just letting it idle, go for a long drive at a high rpm untill the gas is used up.

tb00 said:

I don't have the time or space to drop the tank and mess with the pump. My car is lowered and I don't have ramps. Nor is my garage worthy and I have a gravel drive. I'm SOL for serious repairs at home.

I think I'll spray it started and drive it to the shop.

Here is what I'm telling the shop:

Car is not getting fuel at ignition to start. Once started (with spray) the car runs/idles/revs as long it is above 700 rpms. If it drops below, there is no recovery. Sounds computer, relay or sensor related.

Any last (non-invasive) invasive ideas?

I'll post the shops results.

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Do you know anyone local with a diablo or sct tuner? They can pull any trouble codes and maybe save you some shop labor. Also, maybe have someone listen to the pump turn on when you hit the key.

Or do as others suggested and drive that old fuel outta there. My car was doing the same no fuel at start. THe fuel pump driver module in the trunk is another thing to check.

tb00 said:

Here is what I'm telling the shop:

Car is not getting fuel at ignition to start. Once started (with spray) the car runs/idles/revs as long it is above 700 rpms. If it drops below, there is no recovery. Sounds computer, relay or sensor related.

Click to expand...

The shop is going to LOVE you. You are already "helping" some shop to sell you repairs that in all likelyhood is nothing more that stale gas.

Recommend that you tell them about the car being stored and the symptoms. Let the professionals do the work. Don't drop your guard so easily and invite more repairs.

Note, it may turn out to be a computer or sensor problem. But it is most likely stale gas. In any case, the gas is going to have to be good before any real repairs can be done.

Since you don't want to drain your tank (you have been told how to empty the tank without removing it), consider filling the car up with good gas and see if the mixture is good enough to run the car. Take a trip.

Good to hear you got it nailed down.