Im about to install some Steeda pulleys and t/a and wanted to know a few things before I got started. First how long did it take you to install the pulleys and or t/a. Did you run into any problems while installing or after the install of the pulleys and or t/a. And what degrees do most of you guys have your timing set to? I heard most people are anywhere from 12-14*. If there is any other advice you can give me about the install, power gains, or anything else that would be great. Thanks...
Steeda Timing Adjustor and U/D Pulleys
- Thread starter 03gtmustang
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I have both the Steeda pulleys and Timming Adjuster on my 96 GT. The pulleys are a cinch if you have apuller it goes pretty quick. With the adjuster, you attach it to the crank pulley then, install the unit as a whole. Since I live in a state that has gas that only get sabout 91 octane tops unless you buy the $4.50 a gallon racing fuel, I use steeda's guidlines until I get to a dyno for fine tuning. I am set at about 13 degrees. If you have 93 or so gas I have heard of 14 and 15 degrees used. You just have to find what works best. I have found the whole thing work best with the Ford Platinum plugs also. NGK Iridiums are junk and seemed to kill my performance when using everything. Good Luck!
Slapyo
Admin Dude
not hard to install at all. i didn't run into any problems with mine. my timing adjuster is set at 16* and i run 91 octane.
It’s a pretty simple process.
There are 4 things that should not be overlooked.
1- Don’t forget to use some RTV in the key-way on the crank pulley. It will prevent a small oil leak.
2- The bolt that comes with the pulley is Only used to pull the pulley onto the crankshaft (get it started), use the factory bolt to finish off the install to Steeda torque specs.
3- Check the gap, Steeda specs, after you move the crankshaft sensor and have things in place and tight.
4- You may need access to an impact wrench to remove the alternator nut, some are very stubborn.
First time I installed pulleys and t/a took 30 to 40 minutes.
I'm running 15 1/2*
Good luck with the install.
-Cale
There are 4 things that should not be overlooked.
1- Don’t forget to use some RTV in the key-way on the crank pulley. It will prevent a small oil leak.
2- The bolt that comes with the pulley is Only used to pull the pulley onto the crankshaft (get it started), use the factory bolt to finish off the install to Steeda torque specs.
3- Check the gap, Steeda specs, after you move the crankshaft sensor and have things in place and tight.
4- You may need access to an impact wrench to remove the alternator nut, some are very stubborn.
First time I installed pulleys and t/a took 30 to 40 minutes.
I'm running 15 1/2*
Good luck with the install.
-Cale
Alright, we installed the pulleys and timing adjustor and everything went fine. We still had 87 in the tank so we didnt advance the timing until he was on empty, then we filled her up with 93 octane and advanced the timing to 14*, but then the check engine light came on. Anyone know what is going on?
FR-S8N
Founding Member
stangman
15 Year Member
03gtmustang said:
go to autozone or somewhere & get the codes pulled & let us know what they are. with all the stuff you have on your car, it could potentially be a few things
Could the pulley install be done without impact tools? Also I've read a couple posts about losing sound/light when the alternator pulley is replaced.. Would I see a significant change in those at all? Would my headlight be so dimmed that I couldn't see the road? I just want to know how much power in robbed from the alt.
Black2001GT
Founding Member
03gtmustang said:
I had the same problem. Check the gap between the sensor and the timing adjuster. Unhook the battery and leave unhooked for about 30 mins. That solved my problem.
decoy562
New Member
I didnt put the timing adjustor on my car, so I cant answer some of your questions right now. I suggested to him that he disconect the battery for a little, but I dont know if he has done it or not. And yes you have to use an impact wrentch to get the alt. pulley off. The impact wrentch got his alt. pulley off, but not mine. I guess the air compressor doesnt have enough psi for my bolt, so I gave up for now. We will check the codes and gap in a couple days and let you guys know how it went.
You might be able to remove the alternator pulley bolt with a strap wrench holding it in place, if you have one you could always try it and see, it only takes a couple of minutes to remove the belt from the alernator. If not most auto parts stores have electric impact wrenches they will loan out to people doing alternator swaps, etc.
Ike
Ike
MPSnyper
New Member
easy way to see how pullies are going to do..
turn you AC on MAX and COLD.. now go to a stop light take off about 3 times.. see how that feels.. the turn the ac off and repeat.. on the freeway AC ON and the gun it.. while you have the pedal to the floor turn off your AC.. thats about what you get if not more..
T/A well that depends.. the * you set it at and the fuel you run.. ALL CARS ARE DIFF some can handle 16* with no ping mine i could only do 14* 10* is stock.. BECARFUL playing with the timing.. you can loose you motor..
T/A i notice that my car alot peppier..
turn you AC on MAX and COLD.. now go to a stop light take off about 3 times.. see how that feels.. the turn the ac off and repeat.. on the freeway AC ON and the gun it.. while you have the pedal to the floor turn off your AC.. thats about what you get if not more..
T/A well that depends.. the * you set it at and the fuel you run.. ALL CARS ARE DIFF some can handle 16* with no ping mine i could only do 14* 10* is stock.. BECARFUL playing with the timing.. you can loose you motor..
T/A i notice that my car alot peppier..
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