Steering box is shot, now what?

I just installed ALL brand new front suspension and had the car aligned. Funny how the alignment shop didn't mention anything other than the negative camber I requested :lol:

Anyway, I installed opentracker upper and lower arms, heim strut rods, roller perches, 620 springs, KYB's, 1 1/8 swaybar, export / monte carlo braces and all new ball joints. Every single component is brand new with the exception of the steering box.

While driving, I can basically turn the wheel (manual steering) from 11oclock to 1oclock and feel a dead spot. I got a quote from a local guy to R&R the box an rebuild for $400.

Are there better options out there for similar monies? The stock box seemes a bit slow and the search funtion resulted in "flaming" of the flaming river boxes.

Here's how she sits...everyone likes pics right?
stang1.JPG


stang2.JPG
 
That guy has a good reputation. I think I'd either use him or ABS in Orange, CA.

I would not buy a new box. I hear mixed things about thier quality.

You have another option - get a box from a 60-70 Mustang or Cougar and swap the column to a colapseable type. Most of those boxes were PS and 16:1 ratio.
 
Flaming river boxes don't get flamed. Flaming river rack and pinion gets flamed. The new flaming river steering boxes work just fine I put one in my 65 and never looked back...been 5+ years now and it is still good as new turning my 245 40 17 on the front at 16:1 manual.

Prior to spending money have you attempted to adjust the box that is in there to see if you can tighten it any?
 
I had my standard steering rebuilt by Lee Manufacturing is So-Cal to a 12:1 variable ratio. I've had for over a year and I'm extremely satisfied with there work and feel it incredible. I paid just under $400 for the rebuild. Here is there contact info:
Lee Manufacturing in Southern California.
Lee Manufacturing
Dept MM 11661 Pendelton St
Sun Valley, CA, 91352
818 768-0371
 
Flaming river boxes don't get flamed. Flaming river rack and pinion gets flamed. The new flaming river steering boxes work just fine I put one in my 65 and never looked back...been 5+ years now and it is still good as new turning my 245 40 17 on the front at 16:1 manual.

Prior to spending money have you attempted to adjust the box that is in there to see if you can tighten it any?

The adjustment screw feels fully "bottomed out" and turing it the other way make it much worse.

I'll look into the flaming river boxes again. I'm not sure I want to replace the column, but updating the whole system to the newer collapsible style would be a good thing.
 
All these new parts and no new steering box??? i would call it a lesson learned.
sorry to be blunt but if you are going to rebuild the front end, you do it all!:shrug:


I just installed ALL brand new front suspension and had the car aligned. Funny how the alignment shop didn't mention anything other than the negative camber I requested :lol:

Anyway, I installed opentracker upper and lower arms, heim strut rods, roller perches, 620 springs, KYB's, 1 1/8 swaybar, export / monte carlo braces and all new ball joints. Every single component is brand new with the exception of the steering box.

While driving, I can basically turn the wheel (manual steering) from 11oclock to 1oclock and feel a dead spot. I got a quote from a local guy to R&R the box an rebuild for $400.

Are there better options out there for similar monies? The stock box seemes a bit slow and the search funtion resulted in "flaming" of the flaming river boxes.

Here's how she sits...everyone likes pics right?
stang1.JPG


stang2.JPG
 
All these new parts and no new steering box??? i would call it a lesson learned.
sorry to be blunt but if you are going to rebuild the front end, you do it all!:shrug:

The new suspension has about 15 miles on it so it's not like I'm driving it around with a worn out box. Just trying to do the build in stages as funds permit. Having all the suspension removed doesn't really affect the removal of the box anyways.

What lesson was I supposed to learn?
 
dodgestang:

Flaming river boxes don't get flamed. Flaming river rack and pinion gets flamed. The new flaming river steering boxes work just fine I put one in my 65 and never looked back...been 5+ years now and it is still good as new turning my 245 40 17 on the front at 16:1

+1 ... 'cept I've only got 800 miles on mine, but no problems.
 

I stand by my statement :nice:. Their R&P did them in for worth of mouth consumers and because of all the 'in-direct anecdotal' evidence caused by that, people confuse the 2 products. There is one direct report in that thread of someone who wasn't satisfied with the standard steering box and he also wasn't happy with the resolution where it appears he sent it to them, they looked at, and sent it back saying there was nothing wrong with it (sound like at least a strong CS effort or at the min a strong attempt at showing CS ;) ) and 1 direct report of someone with a R&P that didn't like it and also was not happy with their customer service.

I have no direct relationship with them, I'm just another consumer. I bought the 16:1 box and have been very happy with the product. I have not needed to contact customer service so I can offer no real opinions on it.
 
Not trying to add more fuel to the fire for a company I know nothing about. I stated above that I read something unfavorable and just wanted to post where I read it.

I'll more than likely buy one of their boxes or a borgeson
 
The needle bearings in the Flaming River boxes is nothing special. All the Mustangs used needle bearings on the sector shafts.Ford went to this starting with the 1963 Falcon, from which the Mustang box housing came from.

The Flaming River boxes are expensive because they are new, but also because it is expensive to import parts from Argentina where they are made.

A properly rebuilt original box is better than a new repro box, but if you don't have a good core, the the FR box is an alternative.