Sticking injector?

I have a 2004 mustang gt. Just started getting a p2196 bank 1 stuck rich. It's my girlfriends car. She said it acted like it was cutting out. I drove it and it's fine at idle and normal driving. She said it would usually do it right after she got on the highway. So I held it to the floor for a little bit and slowed to 70. It felt more like it was surging. I had my handheld and was datlogging the fuel trims. Bank one would be stuck rich. Bank two was still fine. After a few seconds bank 1 would go back to normal. The only thing I can think of Is an injector sticking open on bank one for a short time. How can you test for a sticking injector that only does it after a good pull? Is there a way I could use livelink to see an injector sticking? Will I just have to take it to Ford? I haven't had any luck with them. They were useless diagnosing my cobra.
 
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Anybody that will attempt to solve a problem by data logging shouldn't "Just take it to Ford".

If looking for a possible "easy fix", then consider having all of the fuel injectors cleaned and flow tested. I have had great luck with InjectorRX.com.

Note, stuck open injectors is a real thing. I have had it happen to a 2005 F150 3V motor. The testing done during cleaning and flow test will find this out. The other advantage this method has is that future electrical testing will be done with known good injectors.

P2196 - Lack of HO2S-11 Switch, Sensor Indicates Rich
  • Electrical:
  • Short to VPWR in the harness or HO2S
  • Water in the harness connector
  • Open/shorted HO2S circuit
  • Corrosion or poor mating terminals and wiring
  • Damaged HO2S
  • Damaged PCM
  • Fuel System:
  • Excessive fuel pressure
  • Leaking/contaminated fuel injectors
  • Leaking fuel pressure regulator
  • Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel
  • Vapor recovery system
  • Induction System:
  • Air leaks after the MAF
  • Vacuum Leaks
  • PCV system
  • Improperly seated engine oil dipstick
  • EGR System:
  • Leaking gasket
  • Stuck EGR valve
  • Leaking diaphragm or EVR
  • Base Engine:
  • Oil overfill
  • Cam Timing
  • Cylinder compression
  • Exhaust leaks before or near the HO2S(s)
 
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Not looking for an easy fix just the right one. I dont want to throw parts at it. Cleaning them seems like the way to go. Motorcraft ones on rockauto are $70 each. I thought about buying Ford performance ones but they only have 24 lb and 19lb injectors. I was thinking Ford would be able to hook their high dollar diagnostic tool up to it and figure it out. Idk though my cobra is lean on both banks. Took it in and paid over $100 for them to basically scratch their heads and say idk what it is. I'll data log with live wire and see what the fuel pressure and pressure drop is when it does that. Maybe check the battery voltage too. I thought about switching the coil packs around just to eliminate those. I'll check for exhaust leaks too. I checked for vacuum leaks. It was at 18-19 inches of vacuum which is normal. Even sprayed carb cleaner around everything including the couplers on the cold air intake.
 
IMO you problem "could" be wiring or O2 sensor related.

>>from Ford service manual
P0132 - HO2S Sensor Circuit High Voltage (HO2S-11)
The HO2S signals are monitored for an over voltage fault. The code is set when the HO2S signal voltage is 1.5 volts or greater.
  • HO2S Signal Circuit shorted to Heater Voltage inside of HO2S sensor.
  • HO2S Signal Circuit shorted to VPWR or VREF in harness.
  • PCM failure
 
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I just replaced the o2s on my cobra. It's running lean on both banks, so I decided to replace the o2s to see if that would fix it. It did not lol. So I'm pretty sure the old ones are okay. I'll put one of those in it for now to see if that fixes the problem. If all it is, is that o2 I'll be extremely relieved.
 
I put that o2 on it. It was still doing it but I couldnt notice. I could just see it on my tuner on the short term fuel trims. It does it when your cruising around 65-75. What's the fuel pump duty cycle max? It's at like .27 at idle I was revving it in neutral and it would jump up to .32. Seems high but I'm not sure what the max would be on my sct. I'm about to switch the coils around. Idk what else it would be. Maybe an exhaust leak?
 
I put that o2 on it. It was still doing it but I couldnt notice. I could just see it on my tuner on the short term fuel trims. It does it when your cruising around 65-75. What's the fuel pump duty cycle max? It's at like .27 at idle I was revving it in neutral and it would jump up to .32. Seems high but I'm not sure what the max would be on my sct. I'm about to switch the coils around. Idk what else it would be. Maybe an exhaust leak?
From the sound of it, you are about to drop into shot gun style "parts changing" guessing.

One of the things that I don't think is being fully understood is the DTC codes posted can be caused by wiring and connector problems. If you don't bother to confirm if changing the O2 sensor solves the original problem, then this opens up the possibility that the REAL problem is wiring related. Changing some of the other parts mentioned are not likely to give a fix IF the PCM is not getting an accurate and stable O2 sensor signal.

Regarding the exhaust leak question. IMO the answer is unlikely. Why? Because an exhaust leak would most likely cause a LEAN DTC but the motor would "appear" to be running rich.

Perhaps some consideration should be given to a better ODB2 scanner. One with graphing and data logging capabilities could prove very helpful.

ForScan ODB2 scanner w ELM327 USB
 
I think the o2 sensor problem is fixed. Haven't got the p0132 code. I cleaned the maf. There was a little bit of oil on the inside of the maf housing. Probably from the filter? I was trying to get it to stick rich on bank one like it usually does after accelerating on to the highway. It never did. Still no codes. Hopefully that was it.