STILL got overheating problems..help me

[latham83]

ok guys i need the best answers here lol...I just spent 300 dollars on cooling stuff...Ok well i got a GDI 3 row radiator, brand new HD fan clutch and blade.Mr. gasket 180* thermo. I burped the system the first time we started the thing...got alot of air out...Ok...Also i have a 16LB new stant cap..Do u need a diff. pound cap for the 3 row?
anyway, when im driving the thing stays pretty cool...it will stay a hair above 180*. Sometimes it will jump to like 190 if i beat on it alittle but as soon as i cruise she will drop back down..occasionly, it will look like the needles dropping and go to like 175-178...for a short amount of time when im just cruising?
and then come back...but...as SOON as i sit in a parking lot, it will rise withiin like 5-10 minutes to 205-210*!! seriously it rises to that quicker than when i had the 2 row and flex fan on there...what the fock is the deal??? and it was cool last night!! like 60* out!..im so confused and pissed...should i try burping it again after that run? question tho....when the thermo is closed...how should the top Rad. hose feel...and when it is open, how should it feel..When it was like 205*, you could squeeze the hose really easy? shouldnt it be pretty hard if its pumping fluid through there? u can hear like the gurgling sound when u squeeze it, so i mean i dunno...u can feel alittle fluid in there..but not what i thought would be? but would the waterpump really overheat me like that, when im sitting still? its one from advance auto...

 

[393Bird]

The fan clutchs just plan suck. When you need the most from the fan, at stop and go traffic, they just do not move enough air. Since you are fine when on the road, and only run hot when in traffic or idling, it is a air flow problem.

The cure:

A Mark VIII, Ramcharger, or large Spal fan electric fan. This way you can have FULL cooling when you need it. My new 393 stroker has never been up to the N in Normal yet. I will raise the fan cut in temp to 180, once it has about 500 miles on it. Running 160 Tstat and 170 fan cut in during breakin.

 

[latham83]

wow thats really nice man...i dont have the money for electric and and the new alternator tho...i just alot on the hd clutch and blade!! EVERYONE told me it moves ALOT more air when its fresh...so i dunno...it even feels like it does up front...i just dont understand why the temp is raising so much..

 

[L8 MUSL]

Yeah, I disagree.
The heavy duty fan clutch setup DOES move alot of air.
It may not be the most efficiant and does rob a little hp but I think you have air in the system still.
First check the level in the radiator while cold and add coolant if needed.
Then burp again.
Then run the car at idle with the heater on "full hot" to be sure that you don't have air trapped in the heater core. Put coolant in the overflow. Then watch as the temp rises. When it gets up over 180 and the thermostat opens, you should see coolant sucked out of the overflow. then add some more.
You are using a good coolant/water mix right?

 

[latham83]

yea man its fresh stuff.we did almost a 70/30 more water mix...with a bottle of watter wetter!

 

[393Bird]

I have also seen a lot of cooling systems that did not get all of the air out with one try. I used just tap water the first time on mine to make sure there wasnt any leaks. After I was sure it was OK, I drained and flushed it a few times, then got 8 gals of distilled water. I would remove the lower radiator hose, and dump it, then add distilled water till full. I did this 3 times to get all the old water out,, and get as much of the tape water replaced with distilled. After the last dump, I added 2 bottles of water wetter, and a bottle of rust inhibitor. Then I added distilled water to about 2 inches from the top. I had 2 more gals of distilled water ready, and started it up. I let it run with the cap off and adding water as the level dropped. Try to keep the water about 2 inchs from the top to allow for water surges, and to allow the air to get from the engine, into the radiator. Do not fill it all the way up untill it has run about 5 mins and has stopped dropping from air pockets getting out. You can run a hose over the front of the radiator to help keep the water cooler as the air is being forced out. It should be able to idle with the cap off, and the water lrvel just slightly low long enough to get all the air out. Make sure your over flow tank and lhose are in good shape, and you should be able to keep from getting any more air in it.

I do not use antifreeze in mine in the Summer, just distilled water, water wetter, and rust inhibitor.

 

[latham83]

thanks well ill try burping it again...
what does everyone else think

 

[L8 MUSL]

393bird,
do you have any times for the bird?
My bro has a couple of the SC's. He has a Boss 302 motor that he may drop into one of them, and he has a friends in the garrage that runs 11's (pretty good for big car with a V6).
latham83, Sorry for the thred hijack, but I really think you have your answer

 

[393Bird]

No track times yet on it, BUT it sure feels strong. Since the car has been redone from front to rear, I am just taking my time and getting some running time on it. I only have the headers, and pipes to the rear of the trans now, so no driving out side of the area where I live. I need more cooling for the trans, so will order 2 more 24,000 GVW coolers next week, along with a lot of other stuff I need to finish it up.

I have done a lot of weight reduction on it, but much more needed. The remainder of it will be fiberglass and lexan stuff. My goal is to get the car below 3300 lbs. Getting very close now, but have to add a bunch back with a 6 point bar. Looking for 11s if I can get it to hook.

 

[latham83]

ok..burped her again....heres the weird part...the fluid did drop alittle..i let this thign run for about 30 mins...with the hood OPEN, my autometer gauage reads a touch above 180 and does not move...thast in like 70* temp tho...ALSO, i stuck a turkey thermo in the rad. and the highest i got was like 160!! now if i close the hood, the temp on the guage will start to rise..it went about 190..i shut it off then cause i wasnt in a fully open room and the fumes were getting bad..what do ya think? how do u know if my new hd clutch is working properly..while sitting..when i went in the car and reved the engine and held it at like 2, 3 grand..the needle dropped like 5 degrees...and u can hear the fan alot more..

 

[L8 MUSL]

It sounds to me like everything is working.
for it to get to 190 after idleing for 30 mins is ok.
remember, if you haver the stock computer it doesn't even consider the motor "up to temp" untill it's over 192 degrees.
I know, I like mine to run cooler also.
Drive the car around and see what temps you get.

 

[latham83]

yea im gonna see what i got tomorow..its pooring here the whole day..the real reason i got all this cooling **** is because with the stock fan and rad on there, before when it would hit 205*, the engine would start knocking! ..some ppl told me that it might be because of friction, and clearences being tight on a new motor..a bearing might slap when its hot...it didnt do it so far....
im going to the Carlisle ford show tommorow.