Engine Stock 88 bucking at cruising speeds, my fist problem!

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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First I believe any distributor from a 86-95 5.0 will work, doesn't have to be a 'mustang' distributor but a Cardone is as good as it gets, the tfi really should be a ford (motorcraft) unit
JMO
 
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Steel1

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So you got me thinking tonight. I switched back to the stock distributor cap and rotor just to test it. I researched issues with the 5.0 and MSD and found a ton of problems. I'll take her for a spin tomorrow. If it works, it works; if not, what do you think is the best route? I can't find a full Motorcraft replacement but can find a Duralast, Accel, Spectra, or a Cardone rebuilt. I've never heard of the last 2. The Cardone says they are rebuilt using OEM specs, but I would still have to get a TFI separate. I've already called all of the salvage yards within 50 miles and they don't have any Foxbodys so there goes that idea.
Ideally I would do what I posted earlier and replace the components of your factory distributor with Motorcraft parts but
they can be hard to find.

If you want to replace the entire distributor then I would at least get a Motorcraft TFI and swap over your factory shutter wheel
to the new distributor, it's just a couple of screws from the top. Looks like it's just surface rust and should clean up with a scotchbrite.
On a side note if your current TFI is good I would use it ,
 

Rick88

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Ok it's official, she's a princess! Put the stock cap and rotor back on and no issues at all. Does not like MSD at all! Runs a lot smoother and only pulled 3 codes this time.

12 - RPM hight at idle
94 - Air diverter solenoid circuit failure
44 - thermactor air system fault
 
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Steel1

Mustang Master
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Not surprised, glad it worked for you.
I learned that lesson a long time ago on these cars with aftermarket ignition parts.
Keep those stock parts on there as long as they'll last.
 

Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
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Ok it's official, she's a princess! Put the stock cap and rotor back on and no issues at all. Does not like MSD at all! Runs a lot smoother and only pulled 3 codes this time.

12 - RPM hight at idle
94 - Air diverter solenoid circuit failure
44 - thermactor air system fault

For code 12, you'll want to perform the Idle Reset procedure. The throttle stop screw is likely set incorrectly. The IAC should control idle, not the stop.

Here's how I do it.

  1. Start the engine
  2. Unplug the IAC. Engine should continue to run. If it stalls, plug the iac in, start engine, screw idle stop in to raise the idle and then Unplug the IAC again. Repeat until the engine is running with the IAC unplugged.
  3. Now, slowly lower the throttle stop screw a tiny bit at a time. Allow the idle to stabilize. Keep going down to the lowest point you can keep a steady idle going. This is not where your idle will be set to, but more of a min idle setting.
  4. Unplug the battery for 30 mins
  5. Hook battery up and plug IAC back in
  6. Start engine, let it idle 2 mins with no accessories on
  7. With engine running, turn on all accessories and let idle 2 more min
  8. Shut off engine, turn accessories off, restart. Should maintain a decent idle at this point and not be too high.
  9. Over the next few stop/start cycles idle quality should improve
This will wipe the codes out, so after driving a bit, recheck them. since the idle set screw has been moved, you'll want to scan for TPS codes. No need to chase a arbitrary TPS setting just look for codes and if there are none it's set fine.

The other two codes are indiciative of the air injection system being deleted. If this is the case, you don't really need to worry about them as they don't affect how the car runs provided there are no vacuum leaks from the deletion process.
 

Rick88

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For code 12, you'll want to perform the Idle Reset procedure. The throttle stop screw is likely set incorrectly. The IAC should control idle, not the stop.

Here's how I do it.

  1. Start the engine
  2. Unplug the IAC. Engine should continue to run. If it stalls, plug the iac in, start engine, screw idle stop in to raise the idle and then Unplug the IAC again. Repeat until the engine is running with the IAC unplugged.
  3. Now, slowly lower the throttle stop screw a tiny bit at a time. Allow the idle to stabilize. Keep going down to the lowest point you can keep a steady idle going. This is not where your idle will be set to, but more of a min idle setting.
  4. Unplug the battery for 30 mins
  5. Hook battery up and plug IAC back in
  6. Start engine, let it idle 2 mins with no accessories on
  7. With engine running, turn on all accessories and let idle 2 more min
  8. Shut off engine, turn accessories off, restart. Should maintain a decent idle at this point and not be too high.
  9. Over the next few stop/start cycles idle quality should improve
This will wipe the codes out, so after driving a bit, recheck them. since the idle set screw has been moved, you'll want to scan for TPS codes. No need to chase a arbitrary TPS setting just look for codes and if there are none it's set fine.

The other two codes are indiciative of the air injection system being deleted. If this is the case, you don't really need to worry about them as they don't affect how the car runs provided there are no vacuum leaks from the deletion process.
Thanks, I'll look into this today. The smog system and the cats have been deleted so the last two codes are nothing to worry about from what I understand. I'm looking up how to do the smog delete just to double check and make sure it was done correctly/safely. I know "correctly" isn't exactly the right term just want to make sure it won't give the engine any other issues.
 

Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
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Thanks, I'll look into this today. The smog system and the cats have been deleted so the last two codes are nothing to worry about from what I understand. I'm looking up how to do the smog delete just to double check and make sure it was done correctly/safely. I know "correctly" isn't exactly the right term just want to make sure it won't give the engine any other issues.

The air injection system can be deleted completely without affecting the engine. How it's deleted is often what makes these cars run like crap if a vac leak is allowed to exist.

Once the cats are gone, the smog pump and the tubing that extends to the H-pipe and to the back of the heads can be removed. Sometimes guys leave the metal pipe in place and cap off the inlet, and others take the pipe off and block it at the heads. Problem is after 30 or so years, that tube is usually gunked up and the threads are caked in carbon, so it's hard to actually thread anything in. LMR sells a block off plate that doesn't thread into the port and threads into the hole that bolted the tube up. This is probably a better option


Otherwise you would attempt to thread these into the heads. hard to do with carbon.

Aftet that's all gone, there are two vac lines that run over to a bank of solenoids behind the pass tower. There are three. The pair of two sitting side by side are the air pump solenoids, and the one on top that's alone is for the EGR which is a different animal.

You can unplug and remove these. They are fed by vac lines, that ran to solenoids on the air pump tubing. You just need to efficiently cap the vac lines here.
 
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Rick88

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I reset the idle, thank you it seems to idle great now! Now on to the emissions delete. I will confirm all of it this weekend when I get it over to my in-laws as I don't have a jack or stands and wedging my fat butt under her isn't going to cut it.
1) The belt has the Smog Pump bypassed and the A/C completely taken off. It's a bit odd because the setup looks like the factory setup without A/C saying that the power steering pump is up top, but I have A/C controls on the interior and the threaded nipples on the firewall. I'll post pictures of the belt routing so yall can see what I'm talking about.
2) Someone made him an H-pipe (Albeit crappily put together) that deleted the cats but still has the pre-cat O2 sensors and a tube for the emissions system on the passenger side.
3) All the piping for the smog pump is still there and hooked up.
4) The charcoal canister is there with the line to the gas tank. The line to the intake manifold is cut with a bolt in it. No sensor or anything else. The nipple from the charcoal canister to the manifold is wide open.
5) On the passenger shock tower there are 3 solenoids. One of the vac lines on the lower 2 looks like it spits into another line going to the EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid.

Again sorry for all the posts but this thing is kinda stressing my OCD out. I hate things being halfassed. Do it right the first time or don't do it at all. C6FD65A1-1A5E-422E-BE7D-7B829D46F159.jpeg 19A88402-E31B-4FF7-B214-DEA9C77741C5.jpeg
 
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Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
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That is a factory AC delete from Ford racing. It would be this kit that relocates the PS pump up higher


And your air pump is in place, so unless you are going to put cats back on the car at some point, that can all come off. It's not necessarily half-assed, as leaving it all plugged in like that is hurting nothing other than 5lbs of weight.
 

Rick88

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That is a factory AC delete from Ford racing. It would be this kit that relocates the PS pump up higher


And your air pump is in place, so unless you are going to put cats back on the car at some point, that can all come off. It's not necessarily half-assed, as leaving it all plugged in like that is hurting nothing other than 5lbs of weight.
Thanks again! I'm just a stickler for making things look pretty when you work on something. It's a character flaw really lol. I'm glad that keeping that hooked up won't hurt anything, when I'm done getting what the wife wants done with the car I will clean that stuff up then.

Speaking of the AC delete, since it's a relocation kit, it shouldn't be too hard to put the A/C back in then (wife's request)?

I also took it out and ran the codes again. Looking good with just a 44 and 94. She runs like a new car! I owe some of y'all a beer.
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
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Not hard at all to put ac back in. Just time consuming. The most expensive part is the compressor. $307.00 with core charge included. They come painted black instead of raw aluminum like stock. Most parts stores can still get the lines same day or next day. They have a lifetime warranty and easier to exchange there than from online. Advance auto near me is a hub so they have them in stock.
 
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Rick88

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While replacing my mirrors I figured I would fix my window. My driver's side window is missing a part of the guide. I don't know what this is called and I can't find it on any of the restoration sites under windows or doors. The part I'm looking for is circled in red. The one on the driver's side is completely missing along with the bolt so I need to replace the whole thing. Please someone with a bit of experience chime in!
File_000.jpg
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
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That piece I think is like a guide or anti rattle something or other, I'll look in my magic book later, it's a pretty standard piece not specific to mustangs, is there a salvage yard near you?.
 

Rick88

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Mar 17, 2021
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That piece I think is like a guide or anti rattle something or other, I'll look in my magic book later, it's a pretty standard piece not specific to mustangs, is there a salvage yard near you?.
Thanks! There is but they have to get the part themselves. Unfortunately, I don't have one within 50 miles that allows me to just pull what I want. Hopefully, I can find that part soon, running around in Alabama spring with no A/C and the windows up ain't good!