First I believe any distributor from a 86-95 5.0 will work, doesn't have to be a 'mustang' distributor but a Cardone is as good as it gets, the tfi really should be a ford (motorcraft) unit
Ideally I would do what I posted earlier and replace the components of your factory distributor with Motorcraft parts butSo you got me thinking tonight. I switched back to the stock distributor cap and rotor just to test it. I researched issues with the 5.0 and MSD and found a ton of problems. I'll take her for a spin tomorrow. If it works, it works; if not, what do you think is the best route? I can't find a full Motorcraft replacement but can find a Duralast, Accel, Spectra, or a Cardone rebuilt. I've never heard of the last 2. The Cardone says they are rebuilt using OEM specs, but I would still have to get a TFI separate. I've already called all of the salvage yards within 50 miles and they don't have any Foxbodys so there goes that idea.
Ok it's official, she's a princess! Put the stock cap and rotor back on and no issues at all. Does not like MSD at all! Runs a lot smoother and only pulled 3 codes this time.
12 - RPM hight at idle
94 - Air diverter solenoid circuit failure
44 - thermactor air system fault
Thanks, I'll look into this today. The smog system and the cats have been deleted so the last two codes are nothing to worry about from what I understand. I'm looking up how to do the smog delete just to double check and make sure it was done correctly/safely. I know "correctly" isn't exactly the right term just want to make sure it won't give the engine any other issues.For code 12, you'll want to perform the Idle Reset procedure. The throttle stop screw is likely set incorrectly. The IAC should control idle, not the stop.
Here's how I do it.
This will wipe the codes out, so after driving a bit, recheck them. since the idle set screw has been moved, you'll want to scan for TPS codes. No need to chase a arbitrary TPS setting just look for codes and if there are none it's set fine.
- Start the engine
- Unplug the IAC. Engine should continue to run. If it stalls, plug the iac in, start engine, screw idle stop in to raise the idle and then Unplug the IAC again. Repeat until the engine is running with the IAC unplugged.
- Now, slowly lower the throttle stop screw a tiny bit at a time. Allow the idle to stabilize. Keep going down to the lowest point you can keep a steady idle going. This is not where your idle will be set to, but more of a min idle setting.
- Unplug the battery for 30 mins
- Hook battery up and plug IAC back in
- Start engine, let it idle 2 mins with no accessories on
- With engine running, turn on all accessories and let idle 2 more min
- Shut off engine, turn accessories off, restart. Should maintain a decent idle at this point and not be too high.
- Over the next few stop/start cycles idle quality should improve
The other two codes are indiciative of the air injection system being deleted. If this is the case, you don't really need to worry about them as they don't affect how the car runs provided there are no vacuum leaks from the deletion process.
Thanks, I'll look into this today. The smog system and the cats have been deleted so the last two codes are nothing to worry about from what I understand. I'm looking up how to do the smog delete just to double check and make sure it was done correctly/safely. I know "correctly" isn't exactly the right term just want to make sure it won't give the engine any other issues.
Thanks again! I'm just a stickler for making things look pretty when you work on something. It's a character flaw really lol. I'm glad that keeping that hooked up won't hurt anything, when I'm done getting what the wife wants done with the car I will clean that stuff up then.That is a factory AC delete from Ford racing. It would be this kit that relocates the PS pump up higher
And your air pump is in place, so unless you are going to put cats back on the car at some point, that can all come off. It's not necessarily half-assed, as leaving it all plugged in like that is hurting nothing other than 5lbs of weight.
Thanks! There is but they have to get the part themselves. Unfortunately, I don't have one within 50 miles that allows me to just pull what I want. Hopefully, I can find that part soon, running around in Alabama spring with no A/C and the windows up ain't good!That piece I think is like a guide or anti rattle something or other, I'll look in my magic book later, it's a pretty standard piece not specific to mustangs, is there a salvage yard near you?.