stock clutch with S/C

the98stang · Apr 26, 2006

Hey guys I was just wondering how well the stock clutch can handle 400WHP. Would it last long with the S/C? Also, how much power can the t45 (5spd) handle? What other parts would need to be beefed up (not including forging the block)? Thanks for any info!

the98stang · Apr 26, 2006

hognutz · Apr 26, 2006

at that level your tanny, clutch, rear axels, diff, tubes, torque boxes all need help if want to ever run slicks or dr radials.

t-45 handles 330lbs or so.

on street tires though it will all proably last a wile. it is one of those things stock stuff can last a wile or break quickly but all of those parts are being pushed past their designed power level.

Gearbanger 101 · Apr 26, 2006

The components will last longer under the abuse of a Centrifugal car, than they will with a Positive Displacement blown one, since torque levels tend to come on more gradually, but if you're going to be running her at the track with slicks every weekend, expect to start saving for better parts.

the98stang · Apr 26, 2006

hognutz said:
at that level your tanny, clutch, rear axels, diff, tubes, torque boxes all need help if want to ever run slicks or dr radials.

t-45 handles 330lbs or so.

on street tires though it will all proably last a wile. it is one of those things stock stuff can last a wile or break quickly but all of those parts are being pushed past their designed power level.

The t45 handles 330 lbs of torque? What can be done to beef up the tranny (besides new clutch/flywheel)?

I'll run DR's/slicks eventually, just not anytime soon, as the cost of the S/c setup will have me financially.

I'd eventually get 31 spline axles and differential. The tubes and torque boxes are easy weld jobs...

the98stang · Apr 26, 2006

Gearbanger 101 said:
The components will last longer under the abuse of a Centrifugal car, than they will with a Positive Displacement blown one, since torque levels tend to come on more gradually, but if you're going to be running her at the track with slicks every weekend, expect to start saving for better parts.

I think all I'll be able to afford is a centrifugal S/C anyway lol...

KB 1.7 = 5 grand =

Vortech S-trim = $3800

BennyBlown2v · Apr 26, 2006

Non-intercooled KB 1.7 is $4000, but personally I went with the Centri (MPH Mongoose kit) due to the fact that it came with a upgraded fuel pump, MAF, spark plugs, etc.

Also, as long as you don't launch the car, the clutch will last "forever" (well, a really long time), so will the trans....but of course you're gonna wanna step on it lol

the98stang · Apr 26, 2006

BennyDaBall said:
Non-intercooled KB 1.7 is $4000, but personally I went with the Centri (MPH Mongoose kit) due to the fact that it came with a upgraded fuel pump, MAF, spark plugs, etc.

Also, as long as you don't launch the car, the clutch will last "forever" (well, a really long time), so will the trans....but of course you're gonna wanna step on it lol

What do you consider launching? Do you mean dumping the clutch at 5k rmp or what?

My stock clutch has 67k miles on it lol....

BennyBlown2v · Apr 26, 2006

the98stang said:
Do you mean dumping the clutch at 5k rmp or what?

Yep. Also, launching under boost is what I meant

the98stang · Apr 26, 2006

BennyDaBall said:
Yep. Also, launching under boost is what I meant

Well don't KB's produce boost even at 100 rpm's?

When do Vortech s-trims produce boost? Lets say they produce boost at 3k rpms...would that mean no launching at 3k rpms? I R confoosed

BennyBlown2v · Apr 26, 2006

Bypass = open when in vacuum, you only get boost when the throttle is closer to the floor and there is enough vacuum to close it.

EDIT: and I mean substantial boost, 3krpm is like 1-2lb on s-trim, like where your torque is starting to peak (or atleast, gets over the maximum reccomended torque load for your trans!).

Gearbanger 101 · Apr 26, 2006

the98stang said:
Well don't KB's produce boost even at 100 rpm's?

Errrr, no. Closer to about 1,200RPM, but the nearly reach peek by about 2,500. Positive Displacement blowers hit hard down low and only climb about 1-2 more psi by redline. Centrifugal blower depending on the blower and depending how it's pullied will start making boost anywhere from about 2,500-3,200RPM...(give or take) and progressively climb until redline.

A bypass valve is what controls boost level at idle and part throttle operation (as already stated). Almost all Positive Displacement blowers have them now since they’re pretty much a necessity if you want a street able daily driver and the ability to get any sort of double digit gas mileage. It keeps manifold pressure negative for all but aggressive and WOT driving. This way, you’re ACT’s are lower under normal driving, power band remains more controllable, fuel economy improves under normal driving and the risk of damaging something within the intake system when the throttle body snaps closed after you let your foot of the gas is eliminated. On the Centrifugal end, usually any harder spinning blower bigger than entry level will utilize one too.

Entry level Centrifugals don’t often come equipped with them, nor do they really need them, since ACT’s are often lower with a Centi over a PD blower, so fear of spoiling the air charge under normal driving is non-existent. Also, manifold pressure doesn’t often reach positive levels until mid-RPM and even then only during aggressive driving. This means the fuel consumption remains normal as does drivability even with the absence of one.

BennyBlown2v · Apr 26, 2006

Gearbanger 101 said:
Entry level Centrifugals don’t often come equipped with them, nor do they really need them...

Teh wha... I've never seen a kit without one for a Mustang!

Dr. Black · Apr 27, 2006

Well I've got about the power your talking about, and I do enjoy using it, but I don't beat the car, or run it at the track. I do however drive the car, sometimes rather hard, but no crazy abuse, like dumping the clutch, or crazy power shifts. I do jump on it though, and although I may be tempting fate, I've had to problems, or any hint of any, but of course I'm sure I could abuse it abd break everything, but driven with somewhat respect and common sense (which some people seem to lack these days) I think things should be fine....for a while anyway, ever thing wears out eventually.

the98stang · Apr 27, 2006

So you guys are saying the stock clutch will last as long as I don't dump it at the track? Normally I feather the clutch below 3k rpms....

Gearbanger 101 · Apr 27, 2006

BennyDaBall said:
Teh wha... I've never seen a kit without one for a Mustang!

A lot of the old Ball Drive Paxton SN-blowers didn't come with them and neither did some of the early Powerdyne's I believe. But most of them were also only good for about 5psi, as well in retrospect. You're probably right though....since the inception of the Novi series and Vortech V-trims, I guess pretty much all Centi's have them now a days.

the98stang said:
So you guys are saying the stock clutch will last as long as I don't dump it at the track? Normally I feather the clutch below 3k rpms....

Yes....treat it with respect and it will last as long as it would stock. A lot of boosted agressive driving and hard launches under boost (or even N/A) will shorten the life of any clutch. That pretty much goes without saying.

damacman · Apr 27, 2006

I dunno . . . my stock clutch took a dump on my when I was N/A with about half the bolt-ons . . . of course, I power shift . . .

Gearbanger 101 · Apr 27, 2006

damacman said:
I dunno . . . my stock clutch took a dump on my when I was N/A with about half the bolt-ons . . . of course, I power shift . . .

Gearbanger 101 said:
Yes....treat it with respect and it will last as long as it would stock. A lot of boosted agressive driving and hard launches under boost (or even N/A) will shorten the life of any clutch. That pretty much goes without saying.

ADRENLN · Apr 28, 2006

i think you will be fine for a while if not beaten. i will also use my stocker clutch after i get my blower.

TonyG · Apr 28, 2006

My clutch was the first thing to go -it was slipping bad during burnouts. I now have SPEC 3.

I'm making 455 rwhp with a centri blower, and drag race with slicks. I still have the stock T45, stock axles, and stock diff. However, the diff was rebuilt two times. The way I see it, its much easier to rebuild it every couple of years for $100, than to look for an indestructible limited slip diff.

With these things, it seems to be the luck of the draw. Some people get away with low-11's with stock parts that others blow up running 13's

stock clutch with S/C

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