Stock engine, built, light body... how would it run?

90mustangGT

I felt sorry for girls because
Founding Member
Jan 15, 2002
2,773
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89
Dallas, GA
Bone stock motor, from TB to oil pan, maby headers and a MAF and such, but otherwise stock. Only accesorie being the alternator, (electric WP) on a very lightened foxbody, with full drag suspension. Maby a 150 shot on it.

See, I have my car pretty much ready for an engine, but the money for the engine might take me another year. I can get ahold of a stock 5.0 engine, and was thinking I could have fun with it for a while. This way I can get back into racing, and keep in practice. I would be happy if it ran 12's without the poweradder and 11's with. What do you guys think?
 
Call me nuts...

If its a race car, mid to low 12s all motor, and on a 150 shot low 11s easily (has to be geared right). I have seen 12.7s from the same thing you mention on a full weight, daily driven car, and have heard of 12.5s from a few different guys. Add to it a lighter race type car, and you should be able to go that fast!
 
I think you could pull low 13's or high 12's. On 150 shot maybe break 11's.

I think itll be fun while your waiting for the motor, and once you have the money for it, youll notice the difference and itll be a nice jump.
 
I think it's possible too. I want my fox back. Plus I want a motor that is emmisions freindly so when emmisions finally goes statewide, I won't have to worry. I think it would be interesting to see what it would do. Here is a little more info on the car:

1990 Ford Mustang GT/LX


SUSPENSION:

HPM Megabite Jr. Lower Controll Arms
HPM Megabite Double Adjustable Upper controll Arms
Moroso Rear Drag Springs
Lakewood 50/50 Shocks
Weld Draglites 15x8”
26x10.5 ET Streets


Granatelli Tubular K-member
Granatelli Tubular A-arms
Granatelli Coil-overs
Granatelli 175lbs/in springs
Lakewood 90/10 Struts
QA1 C/C Plates
Weld Draglites 15/x3.5
165R15

MM Full length Subframes

DRIVETRAIN:

Tremec TKO 500 Trans
Spec III Clutch
FMS Aluminum Driveshaft
3.73:1 Rear

Weight Reductions:


Complete Deletes (no replacments)

Front Bumper w/ Shocks
Fog Lamps w/ Lamp Support Bracket
Side mouldings
Airbag System w/.Bracketing & Sensors
Hood Prop
Hood Latch Assembly w/ cable w/switch
Washer bottle
Evap Cannister
Front Swaybar
P/S System
Smog System
A/C System
HVAC unit under dash
Stereo system w/speakers
Cruise Controll System
Sound Insulation Material Deleted (from firewall to hatch)
Rear Seat w/all Bracketing and Belts
Sub-brackets on Dash Support Frame
Center Counsil Supports
Differential Dampener
Padding under carpet and hatch
Quad Shocks and Brackets
Spare tire and jack
Rear Bumper w/shocks
Quad Shocks w/brackets
Tailpipes
Brake Booster

Lightweight Replacments: (replaced with lighter components)

Aluminum Heads
Aluminum Pullies
Aluminum Seats
Front Coil Over Conversion
Tubular K-Member
Tubular A-arms
Flaming River Manual Rack
Catless Mid-pipe
Aluminum Driveshaft
Weld Wheels (15x3.5 & 15x8)
Drag bucket seats
LX trim.

Heavyweight Replacments
Alumimum Radiator (lighter empty but holds more coolant reversing reduction)
TKO 500 Trans
Upper and Lower Control arms
Larger battery

Adds weight:
Oil Cooler:
MM Full Length Subframes
Battery relocation unit
Driveshaft Loop
 
90mustangGT has been building up his car since as long as I can remember.. Dude get that thing on the road you and the car deserve it. The money thing is just a excuse,.. you can afford a nice Camaro while your building the stang but you cant afford to finish the motor you started long ago? Sell the Camaro if you dont like it and finish the stang plus have cash in your pocket.
 
Well, I guess then it wouldn't have alumimum heads, I typed that in when I had some TFS's sitting in the garage.

I bought the camaro for $5000, it had some problems. Working on it now. Once I get it back togeather hopefully I'll get at least $6K, maby more to finish the car. Yeah, it's a nice car, but just not my style. I remember my foxbody, I couldn't wait to drive it every day. Even when it wasn't my D/D, I still drove it almost every day. This car, well, it will go weeks at a time and I would touch it. Just not the same. I thought I would like it, but not really. I will get that foxbody on the road sooner more than later.
 
That sounds good to me...

I would take a light shell, add the suspension stuff (adjustable everything) and get it set up right...

Get a stock motor, long tubes, off road X, and a race muffler, electric wp, no accessories, and a decent gear (Id easily go 4.10-4.30s minimum). Get the car hooked and hang on.

My guess would be everything right, 12.2s!
 
I forgot one thing, I have a new 306 sitting in my garage, maby I should just get heads for it and the conversion rockers (it's a non-roller) and bam I have a new motor. I have to laugh at my self, I bought an engine and forgot about it. I bought it for $500, but it isn't ideal. It is a flat tappet motor, speed-pro pistons, stock rods and crank. Why I put it aside was the stock connection hardware. Maby I should buy some heads, have the machine shop go through the bottom end, maby even get it balanced. No, it isn't any 438 but I'll have a motor to run around in and be happy while building the 438. I just don't know sometimes, I just want to see what I can do with the minimum.
 
Go on ebay and by some old ford iron's set up for flat tappets. Port and polish them. Send them to the machine shop to have them cleaned/checked and a street valve job done. BAM! Just add a cheap dual plane intake and a 600 holley. Then, enjoy the car.
 
I think I might stay fuel injected for now. I just want this car to run. I'm putting my Camaro togeather. I am putting a u/d pulley and a electric waterpump on it and sealing the leaks. I got the two parts because I thought I might stick with this car. Now, I can't wait to get rid of it. Heavy, gas guzzling, dump truck sounding car. It has the stock converter (auto) but a cam, and it chuggs at idle, it sounds OK cruising, but really, really wicked at wide open throttle due to Hooker 1 7/8ths longtubes into a 3" o/r y pipe into a cutout. It has a flowmaster muffler but nothing worse than a flowmaster on that car. It corners and brakes good though. Pulls good on the highway, 3.23 gear.

Getting the mustang on the road is a top priority for me. I own tree vehicles right now. The mustang is a lot more fun, and what I am passionate about.
 
90mustangGT said:
Bone stock motor, from TB to oil pan, maby headers and a MAF and such, but otherwise stock. Only accesorie being the alternator, (electric WP) on a very lightened foxbody, with full drag suspension. Maby a 150 shot on it.

See, I have my car pretty much ready for an engine, but the money for the engine might take me another year. I can get ahold of a stock 5.0 engine, and was thinking I could have fun with it for a while. This way I can get back into racing, and keep in practice. I would be happy if it ran 12's without the poweradder and 11's with. What do you guys think?

I'll let ya know when I finish my GT, same set up went 13.0's at 102 in my 400lb heavior coupe on motor and 11.8's at 114 on a 100 shot on 26" et streets and less gear, gt will have 27" slicks and 4.10's . only thing different is I ran a cobra intake and a 65mm t-body but I had all the belt driven acc. The gt is as gutted as you can get it while still having a full interior , not cutting any metal out and not buying light weight replacement parts, just gotta get creative.