Stock Rear Springs

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
15 Year Member
Jun 28, 2013
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I'm looking for stock rear springs for the 93 vert. Listings at rock auto and autozone show different part numbers for auto vs manual trans as well as different numbers for hatchback, convertible and sedan (assuming they mean coupe)

Anyway, what are the differences in theses various springs? I can get the hatch ones for 1/2 the cost of the vert ones. Will the hatch ones be ok in the vert? How would they be different in the application?
 
All worthwhile questions. My past experience with Ford springs told me they use a variety of different springs, and spring rates, in any given line, based on model, options, intended use (such as Police), maybe even geographical location! Why, I dunno. Only possible reason I can think of, and it's guesswork, is that based on your questions, the vert MIGHT have spring perches located differently from the hatch, or something like that, maybe different length control arms, etc. imp
 
The convertible and hatch suspension components are in the same locations and the same material.

The springs are a little tighter in a convertible ( speaking from experience ). Could be because the convertibles are heavier in the rear. I bought springs ( for a vert ) from Advance Auto and they worked well. They only had one spring available for all the models. I put the same springs in a 6 cylinder notch and the front felt a little tight but handled way better than the broken springs that were on it previously.
 
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If you are interested in used springs let me know. I am pretty confident I have a set from a 92' vert here, and the factory ones out of my 95' GT. Probably a few more as well.

Kurt
 
National parts depot has a good selection depending on what model and if your car is stick or auto or has A

Edit:
Here's a pic of breakdown of 1993 models and which springs are used. They are $99/pair. I'd imagine online would give you more clarity than my pic
IMG_3420.webp
 
If you are interested in used springs let me know. I am pretty confident I have a set from a 92' vert here, and the factory ones out of my 95' GT. Probably a few more as well.

Kurt

Thanks, I appreciate the offer. But first I may have a line on some right around the corner here. A control arm swap might also help me reach my goal so I'm still tinkering with options.
 
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National parts depot has a good selection depending on what model and if your car is stick or auto or has A

Edit:
Here's a pic of breakdown of 1993 models and which springs are used. They are $99/pair. I'd imagine online would give you more clarity than my pic
IMG_3420.webp


The pick looks plenty clear. Thanks for posting it.
 
Here’s the stock height progressives before installation. Going in now. Got stock front springs already in. I took a before photo of the car stance and I’ll take an after and post them together when the rear spring swap is done. These progressives were $39 from Autozone ship to home. Got the isolaters off eBay

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This thing came into our possession with a story of turbo race car history. The rear wheel wells have extra gear head undercoating. Caked on about 1/2” thick.


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Before and after. For sale is a set of Foxbody 1.5” drop springs (front and rear) and Southside traction lift control arms and brackets. Also Strange adjustable rear shocks. $250 takes it all


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I will say this. Most people remove stock springs and install shorter aftermarket springs. That process goes pretty easy as many of you know. Installing the longer stock springs on the other hand can be pretty tough. I fought like hell getting the stock front springs in, they about killed me. The rear's were no cake walk either but here's how I did it without a compressor tool.

Raise vehicle, support frame on jack stands and support rear pumpkin with floor jack. Remove rear wheels. Unbolt shocks from rear. Unbolt quad's from frame. Lower rear and pull aftermarket springs out, pretty easy since they're shorter than stock.

To get the longer stock springs back in I did the following. Use floor jack to push one side of the rear up while also using bottle jack with wood block up in fender to push the other side down. Spring still too long. Use another floor jack with 2x4 block to push up on the pigtail at the bottom of the spring until its level was just above the lower spring perch. Then kick with heel inward knocking the spring off the jack and onto the lower perch. Almost there but not quite. Spring now over perch but not aligned. Pigtail winding over hole in control arm. Next idea was use a large socket on a small extension and push up on the pigtail through control are hole with the floor jack. Raise it up just enough to get the pigtail slightly above the perch. Then go under from the rear and kick the spring forward with heel, again knocking it off the jack and onto the perch. Couple of tries and I got it in place.

Figuring this sequence on the passenger side took me about an hour. With this, I moved to the drivers side and repeated the sequence. That spring took only 10 minutes to get in.
 
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