What I'm having trouble getting my head around, is that the only symptom I know for sure is when the negative signal to the coil stops from the ICM (#5 Pin) as the car is running, and the car dies immediately with no spark, even at higher RPMs (verified by timing light on coil wire).
When I try to restart with the key still in the run position (without cycling key off first):
- The PIP signal remains okay, based on the LED flashing signal on the #1 Pin,
- I still have 12v to the coil on #4 pin,
- I still have 12v ground on the #6 Pin,
- There is no #5 Pin signal, and the car won't restart (cranks fine, just no spark).
However, when I cycle the key from run to off, and then back on again to the start position, the #5 Pin negative signal works again, and the car immediately starts.
Like I said, I'm not great with electrical issues, but I can't seem to get around the reality that the negative #5 Pin signal fails from the ICM, and won't reset without the ignition key cycling off-on again. This is 100% repeatable.
With constant 12v and ground connections to the distributor, what does cycling the key actually reset to get spark again?
Sorry for rambling, but I'm running my mind in circles, and won't have time to finish the negative ground testing for the next week or two.
Thanks again.
When I try to restart with the key still in the run position (without cycling key off first):
- The PIP signal remains okay, based on the LED flashing signal on the #1 Pin,
- I still have 12v to the coil on #4 pin,
- I still have 12v ground on the #6 Pin,
- There is no #5 Pin signal, and the car won't restart (cranks fine, just no spark).
However, when I cycle the key from run to off, and then back on again to the start position, the #5 Pin negative signal works again, and the car immediately starts.
Like I said, I'm not great with electrical issues, but I can't seem to get around the reality that the negative #5 Pin signal fails from the ICM, and won't reset without the ignition key cycling off-on again. This is 100% repeatable.
With constant 12v and ground connections to the distributor, what does cycling the key actually reset to get spark again?
Sorry for rambling, but I'm running my mind in circles, and won't have time to finish the negative ground testing for the next week or two.
Thanks again.