Stroker Build Questions

Stang9597 · Nov 30, 2016

I am about to build a 331 stroker to put in my 1995 GT. I have looked at threads on multiple forums but cannot find the answers I am looking for so any help would be great, thanks. (Carbureted, A/C Delete, No smog)
1) what water pump should I use? Do I need a High Volume water pump or will a stock replacement work?
Are the stock radiator and e-fan up to the task of a stroker?
2) Do I need a high pressure oil pump? Or can I use the stock pan and stock oil pump?
3) With an edelbrock airgap intake and carb, will the stock hood (1995) clear everything?
4) Do I need to sump a stock tank? or can I just use a pickup to get rid of the efi fuel system?
5) Are underdrive pullies usable in this application?
6) What is your stroker build list? and how does it perform?

This car will mostly be a street car and do not plan on revving the motor of 6k rpms.

OneWheelPeel · Dec 1, 2016

What heads are you using? And I wouldn't put under drives on. Especially if your worried about the water pump not being efficient enough.

RangerJoe · Dec 1, 2016

Stock replacement style water and oil pump will be fine. I really can't comment on the carb aspects of it. Any reason you don't want to keep EFI?

My list:
-Stock block 331 with scat rotating assembly
-stock style oil pump with ARP shafts, stock style water pump
-dual contour fans, would recommend larger radiator
-AFR 185's, custom FTI cam, Holley Systemax Intake
-large tube shorty headers
-255 pump, 30lb injectors, pro m MAF, no tune
-T5 and 4.10's

Car runs well, lopey idle, pulls great and runs high 11's. Also has AC and PS. oh, and stay away from pullies if you are going to street drive it.

Joe

General karthief · Dec 1, 2016

I have a friend on fb that says, never mind, that would be cruel.
Sounds like a real conversation starter. Got any pics? The legion of advice here is inhanced with pictures.
I'm curious as to why your kik'n the fi to the curb?

CarMichael Angelo · Dec 1, 2016

Again,...a stock water pump will work. You'll have to choose whether or not you want to keep it simple and use a reverse rotation WP (provided you have all of the existing tensioners and pulleys) or figure out a way to tension the belt using a forward rotation version.
Oil pumps, and pans are always a topic of mis-information in alot of places, but by far and large you'll find that using a stock pump and stock pan will work perfect in a street/strip application, and will actually be the best choice. Higher pressure/higher volume pieces are harder for the distributor to turn, and consequently cost more power. Run the lightest viscosity oil you can get away with, (SAE 30/10-30), and you'll ensure that your stock pump will work perfectly.
If you use a carburetor, you're gonna have to use a different tank, or modify the one you have to accommodate the standard pump. You cannot use the existing FI tank w/ the internal pump, and "regulate" the pressure down. 1979-84? used a carb stock and the tank will be set up accordingly w/ the right pick up system, and fuel level sender orientation to make that painless.
The intake and carb clearance is just gonna have to be one of those wait and see kinda thingys,....whatya gonna do if it's too high? It's not like you're gonna be able to shave the intake down enough to change anything.

There are several low-rise air cleaner housings out there to help w/ that,..you'll just have to find that one out on your own.

As far as what's the best C.I. when choosing a stroker kit...I've always heard that a 327-331 is the best over a 347 because of the lack of room for the ring set. The longer rod gets into the bottom ring set, and forces the use of a thinner ring pkg. There are also rod ratio/piston speed considerations when you start looking at all of the "white paper" junk that's out there. Stay w/ the smaller stroker if you buy into any of that.

A5literMan · Dec 1, 2016

Buy some drop motor mounts and I would think the intake and carb will fit. You should be able to run the pulleys without an issue but I would recommend just using some stock replacements to remove any doubt/problems.

Stang9597 · Dec 1, 2016

losing efi because carberated will be cheaper on me. Any reccomendations for a radiator? Any pointers or information that I need to know for building a stroker? Thanks. ( will also be running the t5 trans for a while till I get the money to get a stronger trans)

Stang9597 · Dec 1, 2016

how would I modify the current fuel tank to accommodate a standard pump? Sump it or just use a pickup?

General karthief · Dec 1, 2016

I am not against using a carb, but wonder why it would be cheaper to run the carb? Is the efi wiring hacked? Stuff missing?
Buying and /or modifying the gas tank, intake, carb, ignition, linkage and any other do dads don't sound cheap to me, will the stock gauges still work, no? New gauges.
Like I say, I'm not try'n to talk you out of it, just think that the expense reasoning is a wash.
And like I've said before, I have forgotten how to tune a carb but I can tuna fish.

Stang9597 · Dec 1, 2016

Going carbd because the fuel lines, tank, pickup, and pump are all shot I also got a good deal on some of the parts I need for the carburetor set up. Baffle broke inside of tank and has broken everything inside the tank. You can hear the Baffle banging around in the tank going around turns

General karthief · Dec 1, 2016

So it is running efi now?

Stang9597 · Dec 1, 2016

Yes. But it has a very hard time starting and loses fuel sporadically while driving. I already have the carb, holley 750. Was just wondering what all I still need to buy. Needing timing chain and gear.. any reccomendations? Or should I go gear drive?

CarMichael Angelo · Dec 1, 2016

Wait.....You have a functioning ( albeit badly) EFI system that you are gonna disable in favor of a carburetor?

Here.

Pictoral representation o what is getting ready to happen to you now that the rest know.

Stang9597 · Dec 1, 2016

I know but since I already have the carb.. I will have about 250 in an intake... I'm going to have to buy a new tank with fuel pump anyways... will still be cheaper to go with carburetor. It will all be ok lol

Stang9597 · Dec 1, 2016

What about gear drive vs timing chain?

a91what · Dec 1, 2016

Ditching the efi huh... going for that lack of resale value thing I see.

Why not take the time and figure out why the efi doesn't work, it's likely something simple and takes a lot less time than a conversion on a fuel tank.

If you need parts cheap just ask. plenty of JY cars to steal thing off of to make it easy on the wallet.

Davedacarpainter · Dec 1, 2016

a91what said:
Ditching the efi huh... going for that lack of resale value thing I see.

Oh blah blah blah, blahblahblahblah.

Tell me all about the resale value on a '95 GT.......knock it down in half? Might lose $250?

Go for it, I say.

Blah blah blahblahblah.

Gear drive won't do that much for you, give you a different noise though.

Stang9597 · Dec 1, 2016

Aside from the whole efi vs carb dispute... What's everyone's opinion on stock oil pump and pan vs hi vol/pressure oil pump and an aftermarket oil pan?

a91what · Dec 1, 2016

Off your meds today @Davedacarpainter ?

90sickfox · Dec 1, 2016

-Trick Flow 185 heads
-Mexican block
-331 Sat rotating assembly
-Holley Systemax intake
-75mm throttle body
-42lb injectors
-Comp Cams xe282hr cam
-340lph pump ( over kill )
-MSPNP2
-turbo
-stock style oil pump
-ARP oil pump drive
-stock style water pump
-Contour fans
-t5 ( fusible link )
-cobra IRS with 3.73s

For the carb you can use the stock fuel tank pick up. You can run a piece of fuel injection hose to a metal pipe sitting just off the bottom of the tank and cap off the return line pipe. Coil the vapor line above the tank and vent to atmosphere.

Not sure about hood clearing.

The stock oil pump and pan will be fine. My block is girdled so I run a Canton 7qt oil pan. The stock water pump will be OK. I used a Shepherd Auto Parts 3 row. Bought online from Shepherd Auto Parts for under $100 shipped. Very nice full aluminum radiator.

My last 347 was carbed. I used an Aeromotive return style fuel pressure regulator and a restriction style regulator on the fuel line to carb. It worked well for a long time.

You'll have to get a different vacuum advance style distributor. Unless you do like I did and lock the timing out. Not the best way to go.

Edit; the fuel pump doesn't really matter that much if going carbed....15psi max. The 750 carb will probably need to be re-jetted for your application.

I've been there and made a car carbed because of issues with my efi. It was cheaper and easier for me at the time. The car drove well and went all over the east coast- from Alabama to NY. With the timing locked out and my rigged fuel pressure system. Even managed to squeak out decent gas mileage.

Stroker Build Questions

Member

Active Member

I leave the horn on while driving

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,

At least it is lumpy...

Member

Member

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

Member

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

Member

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,

Member

Member

SendMeUrDataLog

Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...

Member

SendMeUrDataLog

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency