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Stroker Build Questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter Stang9597
  • Start date Start date Nov 30, 2016
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    331 fuel oil pump sn95 stroker water pump
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Stang9597

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Jul 20, 2016
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Dec 1, 2016
#21
  • Dec 1, 2016
  • #21
My engine builder advised me to use a girdle.. can I use a girdle with the stock pan? And if so can I use a windage tray as well?
 
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Stang9597

Member
Jul 20, 2016
57
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Dec 1, 2016
#22
  • Dec 1, 2016
  • #22
My engine builder advised me to use a girdle.. can I use a girdle with the stock pan? And if so can I use a windage tray as well?
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
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#23
  • Dec 1, 2016
  • #23
Stang9597 said:
My engine builder advised me to use a girdle.. can I use a girdle with the stock pan? And if so can I use a windage tray as well?
Click to expand...
To be honest....the girdle will only help save the rotating assembly if the block cracks. I'm not sure if it'll clear a stock pan.

If you're not planning to possibly make more than 450hp or add boost then the girdle isn't needed. High rpms also aide in cracking these blocks....6 grand or less shouldn't be a problem.

My block is girdled because ( at the time ) I didn't know better. If I could do it all over it would be a 351 based stroker. A 393 is calling my name as we speak. For the cost of building a 331 you could have 91 more cubic inches and a block that can hold 250 more HP. You'd need a swap oil pan, a different intake, and headers...but you would need a set of heads, distributor, intake etc. already. Even a stock 351 has more cubes than a 331.

If you wanted my honest opinion I'd tell you to build a 351 with a good cam and heads...or stroke it to 393, 408, or 427.

Now you'd have a powerful street/strip car- with a combo you can grow with. [emoji106]
 
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Stang9597

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Jul 20, 2016
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Dec 1, 2016
#24
  • Dec 1, 2016
  • #24
Yes. But already have money in a lot of parts to build the 331 so I'm just going to stick with it. Not planning on boosting it... except possibly a small shot of nitrous in the future
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
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#25
  • Dec 1, 2016
  • #25
What parts do you have so far ?
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#26
  • Dec 1, 2016
  • #26
Hes got a carb
 
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Stang9597

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#27
  • Dec 1, 2016
  • #27
Msd dizzy, intake, alluminum heads, cam, lifters, and a few other small things. But I want to stick with the 331
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#28
  • Dec 1, 2016
  • #28
Don't forget that carb!
 

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
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#29
  • Dec 1, 2016
  • #29
Stang9597 said:
Aside from the whole efi vs carb dispute... What's everyone's opinion on stock oil pump and pan vs hi vol/pressure oil pump and an aftermarket oil pan?
Click to expand...
 

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
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#30
  • Dec 1, 2016
  • #30
since no one has addressed this yet, NO to underdrive pulleys. Complete waste of money
All that a main girdle does is help hold your broken parts in the pan
Going from EFI to carb is like going from a computer to a typewriter because it's "easier to deal with" imo
NO to high pressure oil pump and water pump
A stock radiator an the stock SN95 e fan should be fine to keep the car cool.

My advice- pick your heads then build the motor around them- cam, springs, pistons, etc.
 
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Stang9597

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Dec 1, 2016
#31
  • Dec 1, 2016
  • #31
I have edelbrock heads and my engine builder is getting me a custom ground cam. Is anyone else running a stroker with the stock world class t5?
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#32
  • Dec 1, 2016
  • #32
You can bet there are, just no 'speed' shifting or sticky tires.
Make sure you have a steel retainer on the input shaft where the throw out bearing rides. Be nice to it and it will live for quite a while.
 
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Stang9597

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#33
  • Dec 1, 2016
  • #33
Is scat or eagle a better choice for rotating assembly? And will I need to get a new starter? I will be running around 10.5 to 11:1 comoression
 

mikestang63

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#34
  • Dec 1, 2016
  • #34
Stang9597 said:
I have edelbrock heads and my engine builder is getting me a custom ground cam. Is anyone else running a stroker with the stock world class t5?
Click to expand...

which heads- what size runners and valves, not sure how you can have springs before getting the cam
what rockers
Custom cam- that means nothing. what are the specs. You can get a "custom cam" that has the same profile as many OTS cams.
 

RaggedGT

Been here over a DECADE and still no CT
Mod Dude
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#35
  • Dec 1, 2016
  • #35
Many have used a stock T-5 behind a warmed up small block/big block. Or with blowers or a snail and even probably a bottle. And the things they all have in common? When they break em-
they rebuild/replace/upgrade
Put it behind your motor and roll with it till it quits,cause it's gonna be Fun lol
 
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Stang9597

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Jul 20, 2016
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Dec 1, 2016
#36
  • Dec 1, 2016
  • #36
My engine builder is going to flow everything and see what lift I need on the cam. The rocker ratio will be dictated by the cam grinder
 
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A5literMan

At least it is lumpy...
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#37
  • Dec 2, 2016
  • #37
Stang9597 said:
Is scat or eagle a better choice for rotating assembly? And will I need to get a new starter? I will be running around 10.5 to 11:1 comoression
Click to expand...
Scat. And go with a cast crank. Don't bother with forged or the girdle. The cast crank will out last the block and the girdle doesn't add any structural strength. Keep the RPM's below 6500 rpms and power levels below 500rwhp and it will all live for awhile. The t5 surviving is a crap shoot. With powershifts,sticky tires,etc it won't last long. If it's a street car that is mostly granny shifted...should last a long time.
 
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mikestang63

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#38
  • Dec 2, 2016
  • #38
A5literMan said:
Scat. And go with a cast crank. Don't bother with forged or the girdle. The cast crank will out last the block and the girdle doesn't add any structural strength. Keep the RPM's below 6500 rpms and power levels below 500rwhp and it will all live for awhile. The t5 surviving is a crap shoot. With powershifts,sticky tires,etc it won't last long. If it's a street car that is mostly granny shifted...should last a long time.
Click to expand...

^^ this Forged internals in a stock block are a waste of money as the block is the weakest link. Save the forged internals for an aftermarket block. If I were you, I'd call Woody at Fordstrokers and have him build a motor for you right the first time.
 

krazedstang

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Dec 2, 2016
#39
  • Dec 2, 2016
  • #39
mikestang63 said:
^^ this Forged internals in a stock block are a waste of money as the block is the weakest link. Save the forged internals for an aftermarket block. If I were you, I'd call Woody at Fordstrokers and have him build a motor for you right the first time.
Click to expand...

Thats what I tell EVERYONE when they question why I didn't get forged internals on my stock block when I did my top end kit.
 

a91what

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#40
  • Dec 2, 2016
  • #40
T5 will hold up if you don't power shift it and slip the clutch on the launch. use a stock clutch as a fuse it will slip some and be more forgiving. No drag radials.

I put down 380rwtq at 2500rpm.... stock t5.
 
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