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STROKER MOTORS and OIL???

  • Thread starter Thread starter $uperstang
  • Start date Start date Feb 27, 2006

$uperstang

New Member
Jul 20, 2004
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Detroit, MI
Feb 27, 2006
#1
  • Feb 27, 2006
  • #1
So I just got done building my 325 and I am using Valvoline 10W30 standard mineral oil. What I was going to start using after about 2,000 miles is some Royal Purple 10W30. Although I heard from someone that has a 347 stroker in his that he was told not to use synthetic oil and just stick with the mineral based oil? Is this true of stroker motors or will it be much better to use the Royal Purple or any synthetic?

Thanks
 

DMAN302

My mom says thanks for the pearl necklace.
Nov 8, 2003
2,120
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59
windsor, Canada
Feb 27, 2006
#2
  • Feb 27, 2006
  • #2
Synthetic will be fine, I run dyno oil but most important regardless of oil type is keeping it clean and using the best filter available.
 

Vipersix

Founding Member
Feb 25, 2001
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Clarksville, TN
Feb 27, 2006
#3
  • Feb 27, 2006
  • #3
I have never heard anyone claim synthetics are bad for stroker motors nor can I think of any plausible reason why you wouldn't be able to. I CAN think of many reasons why it would be a good idea to run synthetic though.

I'd recommend a good 5W30 from 76.
 

Michael Yount

Mustang Master
Apr 10, 2002
9,039
6
79
Charlotte, NC
Feb 27, 2006
#4
  • Feb 27, 2006
  • #4
Whether it's a stroker or not has no bearing (no pun) on oil choice.

What bore/stroke combination gave you 325 cubes?
 

04sleeper

Founding Member
Jun 22, 2002
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89
Dallas, TX
Feb 27, 2006
#5
  • Feb 27, 2006
  • #5
I would say it all depends on how you engine builder clearenced the bearings as to what weight oil you should use.
 

$uperstang

New Member
Jul 20, 2004
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Detroit, MI
Feb 27, 2006
#6
  • Feb 27, 2006
  • #6
Michael Yount said:
Whether it's a stroker or not has no bearing (no pun) on oil choice.

What bore/stroke combination gave you 325 cubes?
Click to expand...
Mike,

Stroke from 4340 forged Eagle crank = 3.18
Eagle forged H-beam rods = 5.4
bore = 4.030
JE Srp pistons

combination is 325
 

$uperstang

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Detroit, MI
Feb 27, 2006
#7
  • Feb 27, 2006
  • #7
04sleeper said:
I would say it all depends on how you engine builder clearenced the bearings as to what weight oil you should use.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I am not concerned about weight I am only concerned about type of oil. Which to me this is also the craziest thing I have heard.
 

Michael Yount

Mustang Master
Apr 10, 2002
9,039
6
79
Charlotte, NC
Feb 27, 2006
#8
  • Feb 27, 2006
  • #8
Curious why you chose the 3.18" stroke and not the 3.25" for a 332....

Run mineral oil for the first little bit to clean up the inside post-construction debris -- then switch to synthetic if you like. Talk to your machinist about ring/hone/cylinder finish and how long you should wait to switch. MANY new cars come from the factory running synthetic and go through break-in with synthetic in the crankcase - so it is possible to build them to run on synth right from the start.
 

$uperstang

New Member
Jul 20, 2004
476
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Detroit, MI
Feb 27, 2006
#9
  • Feb 27, 2006
  • #9
Michael Yount said:
Curious why you chose the 3.18" stroke and not the 3.25" for a 332....

Run mineral oil for the first little bit to clean up the inside post-construction debris -- then switch to synthetic if you like. Talk to your machinist about ring/hone/cylinder finish and how long you should wait to switch. MANY new cars come from the factory running synthetic and go through break-in with synthetic in the crankcase - so it is possible to build them to run on synth right from the start.
Click to expand...

Mike,

I will tell U why I went with the 3.18 and not the 3.25 to make a 332. Because I found the 3.18 kit for a GREAT DEAL!!! $899 all forged like I said 4340 forged crank, Forged Eagle H-beam Rods and JE SRP psitons, what do ya think? When I was looking at the time the 331 kits were like $1400 non-forged and I beam rods!
 

Michael Yount

Mustang Master
Apr 10, 2002
9,039
6
79
Charlotte, NC
Feb 27, 2006
#10
  • Feb 27, 2006
  • #10
$$$ are often a compelling reason to make a certain choice. Works for you - that's all that matters.
 
N

NitroNixon

Founding Member
Feb 4, 2002
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D.C. Baby
Feb 27, 2006
#11
  • Feb 27, 2006
  • #11
Wow! $899, that's a great deal. Never heard of a 325 stroker, I currently shopping around for a stroker kit to use right now, where did you buy the 325 kit?
 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!
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Jan 14, 2001
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Feb 27, 2006
#12
  • Feb 27, 2006
  • #12
You coulda got a scat cast steel 347 assembly for $999.

Change your oil often for the first few hundred miles. No reason at all to wait 2000 miles to switch to synthetic. I switched at 600 miles. I talked with mark o'neal from probe/chp and he said 500 miles is fine. I use mobil 1 10w30 with a mobil 1 extended performance filter.

After you get it running, take it out for a drive and break it in properly and come home & change the oil. Cut your filter open and look for shavings.

To properly break in your roller engine, read this link and follow Barry R's response. http://bbs.hardcore50.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=12510&highlight=engine+break
 
9

95conv5.0

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Feb 27, 2006
#13
  • Feb 27, 2006
  • #13
ive heard alot of people say not to run synthetic during break in period, that the oil will not alot the rings to seat correctly, anyone got any insight on this?
 

$uperstang

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Mar 3, 2006
#14
  • Mar 3, 2006
  • #14
NitroNixon said:
Wow! $899, that's a great deal. Never heard of a 325 stroker, I currently shopping around for a stroker kit to use right now, where did you buy the 325 kit?
Click to expand...
I bought the kit over the phone from a shop called Superenginebuilders.com. They were based in IL.
 
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