Lmao, I'm seriously cracking up at the "like I'm five" part...So... can someone explain engine displacement and compression to me like im five?
So... can someone explain engine displacement and compression to me like im five?
That makes plenty of sense to me, thank you so much!so a 302 cylinder is like a glass 4" wide and 3" long. for all intents and purposes a 408 is still a 4" wide glass, but now its 4" long. if the bottom of the glass moved up and down and you have a seal at the top of the glass and nothing can get out; since the 408 glass will hold a greater volume of 'stuff' by the time the bottom of the glass (bottom dead center) gets to the top (top dead center) the stuff in the 408 glass will be more tightly packed than the stuff in the 302 glass at the very top assuming everything other than the length of the glass is the same.
I am not entirely sure which heads better fit my application.5 different types of heads:
* Dish Top
* Reverse Dome
* Flat Top
* Reverse Dome (Twisted Edge)
* Flat Top (Twisted Edge)
Source:http://www.coasthigh.com/Ford-408-Windsor-engine-kits-s/13064.htm
Lol, I don't know if you frequent reddit, but they have a subreddit called "Explain it like im five", its a good way to get people to dumb things down for simple understanding.Lmao, I'm seriously cracking up at the "like I'm five" part...
That makes plenty of sense to me, thank you so much!
So, I am dead serious about rebuilding a 351w to a 408 stroker. I need to makes a part list so I have goals on what to buy.
I plan on buying the SCAT 408 stroker kit, I have decided not to add a power adder, and if I do, that will give another chance to rebuild the motor.
So, since I am new to all of this, I need some help on what I need, here is what I know I need.
*351w
*SCAT Stroker Kit, I need help picking out the heads, I am given
I am not entirely sure which heads better fit my application.
*lifters
*rods
*oil pan
*oil pump
*freeze plugs
* valve covers (not really needed, but I want new ones)
*water pump
*upper and lower intake
*throttle body(?)
*MAF sensor(?)
* injectors(?)
* gaskets
for the life of me, I cannot think..
items marked with a ?, I need help picking out, also any other things I am missing, or I don't need?
good point. thread is useless without pics!
and here is a photo of the clevor from Friday night.....
http://texaspic.net/p392227455/h265F88F5?fb_action_ids=550563375037795&fb_action_types=og.likes&fb_source=other_multiline&action_object_map={"550563375037795":162187003991109}&action_type_map={"550563375037795":"og.likes"}&action_ref_map=[]#h265f88f5
For the record, before we crashed the crap out of my car at the track it had incredible street manners . lift was over 700 and duration @.050 was over 280. Just because it has a lot of duration and or lift doesn't make it un streetable, it just means the rest of the components need to be right and the tune spot on. This thing idled and drove like a Buick lesabre, lol
Nice start to what should be a strong motor. What cam did you go with and what heads are those?
I have 3.70 gears in the 9" now and that may be changing with the bigger cam and possibility of trying to run in X275 this coming season. It has a powerglide with a 1.80 first gear set and the converter is a custom Cameron's piece. It's more about the slippage in the convertor than the stall speed since power management is more of an issue than anything in getting the car to 60'. The ramp retard in the FAST plays into things more than you would think. I can get this convertor to almost lock up over 7000 rpms which has proven to be awesome. In the one test pass we made with the car involving the accident, leaving off idle we were still able to go 138 mph to the 1/8th and the data is promising to hopefully see another 10 mph at least if we get it to 60' in the teens or low 1.2x's and thats before the cam change and a few other things I have brewing for the off season.Yes I agree, like you said the rest of the components need to be right. So with that set up what gears and stall did you have to go with(or what gears if it was a manual)?
I need help with Same thing but I run carba buddy and i built a nasty 347 that ran low 10s @ 132 on motor. it only made 388rwhp. high compression, a big solid roller, a decent sized set of heads. 7500+ shift point. it was an early 302 block with a scat 9000 crank. it has been together for 4 years and made enough $ to pay for itself, but after a season we pulled the main caps off and it had severe cap chatter. its a ticking time bomb.
the stock shortblock in my 93 mustang made 490rwhp with a little set of 160cc gt40 irons, a ported gt40 lower, a downs box upper and a turbo technology street kit with a 60mm turbo at 12lbs of boost over 15 years ago. it ran high 10s/low 11s at 126mph. i drove that car like that for 5 years. it was reliable, but made the car a pain in the ass to work on. when they are running right under boost they make a god aweful amount of egt and underhood heat. they will melt anything that comes near them.
had a vortech s strim on an stock shortblock 91 lx before that. not as hard to work on, good power (540 rwhp with a small pulley), but to make them run hard you have to run a small pulley and a lot of belt tension. that will take its toll on the front main bearing with a cast crank. its not easy on the block either.
a friend of mine right now has a very simple little windsor. its a latemodel block, a scat 9000 408 kit, a set of TFS 190 TW heads, an OOTB victor jr, a pos carb, a c4 with 3.73s, small cam (236/242 under .600 lift), 10:1 compression, 1.75" mid length headers and off the foot brake it runs 10.80s@126 mph on the motor. and it only makes a hair over 400rwhp. unless you plan on spending a lot of $, keep it simple and build a big windsor with a cheap stock block and itll run.
I'm not doubting high hp street cars at all, especially with more cubes. I just think that making 500rwhp NA out of a 347 might be difficult to do without losing some street manners.
I personally know of a 2011 5.0 with a Paxton setup making 850hp and the guy drives it about 80 miles per day and still.gets close to 20mpg. I definitely agree that big power doesn't necessarily mean poor street manners
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