At1Maverick69 said:I dunno but it looks like you have a bent spindle, at least that's what it loks like to me..
but check if your strut is sitting right on top and/or is not hitting anything.
jpctln said:The top nuts and thread space are even on both sides...that's gotta mean they are in right?
tunedin302 said:Do both of your tie rod ends have about the same length of thread exposed? Basically, are both of your tie rod ends the same distance from the rack to the spindle. You problem is being solved because you are pushing that wheel further up in it's geometrical range of movement. I think the problem may be the geometry of the setup at rest and not an over extension from the strut. Just my guessI may be tempted to compare the bilstein and KYB from that wheel against one another also. Good luck.
tunedin302 said:Do you have aftermarket Camber/Caster plates installed? Could also try switching what wheels the bilsteins are on. If it does it on the passenger side then you know it's the strut. If it continues to do it on the driver side then you know its in the suspension absent the strut.
QDRHRSE said:I suggest finishing the install and setting the car back on the ground. It's hard to tell if something is actually out of whack when the suspension is "unloaded". Put some weight on it and then let us know if it doesn't look right.
At1Maverick69 said:is the tire sticking out more on the top or bottom? cuz I remember when I put my kyb's on, the top of the tire on my left side was sticking out, thus giving me alot of positive camber. so I put it up and tried to align it and couldn't till I elongated the holes on the strut.. have you tried that
On my last reply, I was talking about elongating the holes on the struts where its bolted onto the spindle, it's gonna give you a little bit room to play with for camber. But the track width, it's not gonna help any. One of the older guy here at work, when things like this shows up with out aftermarket c/c plates, he usually elongates the holes on top. both on the plate and tower( not recommended btw). see if it makes a difference if you put your old ones back on or swap it around.. and to answer your last q, sometimes there is not enough adjustment on the stock c/c plates to do a good alignment, when you're lowered or have aftermarket stuff suspension wise. hope I'm helping more rather than confusing you..jpctln said:Hypothetical question here...
What if I were to swap the stockers back in or switch the Bilsteins around or whatever, and the camber was still way off on the same wheel? Is there enough adjustment in the c/c plates to fix that if I were to take it somewhere for a normal alignment?
This is what I would try.jpctln said:Hypothetical question here...
What if I were to swap the stockers back in or switch the Bilsteins around or whatever, and the camber was still way off on the same wheel? Is there enough adjustment in the c/c plates to fix that if I were to take it somewhere for a normal alignment?
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