It's worth a shot to probe the fuel pump connector and even swap out the distributor with the original with some new thermal paste on the TFI. I think I could do both tests tomorrow. I appreciate your help, same to the others helping me out on this.
It's worth a shot to probe the fuel pump connector and even swap out the distributor with the original with some new thermal paste on the TFI. I think I could do both tests tomorrow. I appreciate your help, same to the others helping me out on this.Yea, that’s right. As I said, it unlikely, but it’s free to test. Did you try the old distributor to see if that cleared things up? I’m sure others more knowledgeable will chime in on the pump issues.
Yea, that’s right. As I said, it unlikely, but it’s free to test. Did you try the old distributor to see if that cleared things up? I’m sure others more knowledgeable will chime in on the pump issues.
Within the last year or two I had the fuel tank replaced. I also told them to throw in a new pump w/sending unit as well. I'm under the assumption that the pump is fairly new.You said the fuel pump is new, can you verify that again?
The only reliable way to test it is under load, i.e. driving it with a fuel pressure gauge monitoring.
When it stumbles under acceleration, if the pressure momentarily drops & then returns to normal, there's your problem.
The idle tests mean nothing, the flow tests mean nothing. Don't waste your time doing them.
You betcha bud. Definitely feels like I accomplished something this weekend.Great feeling isn't it
Rock Auto.Also, where did you buy your distributor. The one that you later found was the problem?
Poor idle, misfires at low rpm, like going through a roundabout in 3rd gear at 1500 RPM, it would misfire until I got over 2k. Car would not idle with the AC on at all. All these problems were fixed by going back to the old Ford distributorI did recently have a new distributor from LMR installed ( it cost me like $80)
I still have my old distributor. It's the original Ford Motorcraft.
I guess It's worth a try. What exactly was your 89' fox doing And what multitude of issues did you have?
I'll laugh if that's what's been causing my grief and confusion
One thing I noticed is that you have TPS set at .72 volts. That should be closer to .97 volts.Hello everyone. I'm new to StangNet, so I hope I can find a solution to my driving issue.
I have a stock 1987 GT convertible Automatic 5.0 (speed density) car. I've owned it for more than 12 years with my fair share of ups and downs and I love this car.
It has 66-67,000 original miles on the clock and I'm having an acceleration issue. It seems to stumble (maybe misfire?) On moderate acceleration right around the 1500-1800 rpm range.
It does this when the engine is cold or warmed up. If I get on it, the rpms will drop up and down just slightly, Then she will smooth out.
Recently a New distributor, cap, rotor, motorcraft TFI module, plug wires, motorcraft copper spark plugs (gapped .054), Ignition coil, 3G Alternator, starter + starter solenoid, IAC, TPS (set to under 1 volt , about 0.72 volts. WOT is 4.25 volts)
EGR valve w/ EGR position sensor, PCV valve + grommet at rear of engine, ACT sensor, ECT sensor (coolant temp sensor), NTK oxygen sensors (no catalytic converters), fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel pump relay and filter.
Checked for vacuum leaks with a smoke machine and didn't find any leaks.
Idles good at around 750 rpm in drive. Idle is close to 900 rpm in park.
Timing is set to 10° TDC and it was set when the mechanic installed the new distributor, IAC and TPS.
It seems to have good fuel pressure when I checked it last. It does this almost every time I drive it now. If I'm steady on the gas, it's less likely to do it. And I've noticed it will stumble a bit more if I'm giving it more gas driving up a hill or inclined road.
Any ideas on where I should go next?
FPR ? Injectors? Transmission ? Lol
Car is fixed. It was the distributor TFI module or the worn out PIP sensor on the original distributor. Also, the TPS can be set at a range of 0.72. It doesn't have to be 0.97 to 0.98 volts. That's a myth and my car runs fine at its current tps volt range. As long as the volts are below 1 volt at idle and they steady increase to an approximate 5 volts at wide open throttle.One thing I noticed is that you have TPS set at .72 volts. That should be closer to .97 volts.
Also, did you do a base idle reset before setting TPS?
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