All I know is that I called UPR and they said 9" wide wheels will NOT work with coil overs. WTF? They said I need 8" rims.
Progress Thread Stykthyn Tries It Again
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Are you going to run the MM forward off set arms? You have the MM K? If so prepare for lots of rubbing on the fronts
I have the standard offset arm with the K member, I thought the MM K was required with MM a-arms.
My standard arms move the wheels 3/4" forward and did indeed cause all kinds of rubbing
edit.
Seems 3/4" is built into KMM K so that explains that.
My standard arms move the wheels 3/4" forward and did indeed cause all kinds of rubbing
edit.
Seems 3/4" is built into KMM K so that explains that.
I wish I could take the tires off mine to measure my rim to know for sure if it's a 8 or 9" so I could tell you for sure.
- Dec 19, 2010
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My local discount tire has a big set of calipers they use that can reach around a tire on a wheel to measure wheel width. Not sure how accurate that is though, because I'm pretty sure it's measured on the inside of the bead seat..
9" wheels with MM coilovers work in my case, 18x9 front wheels with 255 tires. I had more problems with the outer fenders due to the slight wheelbase change
I thought the 94-95 SN95 spindles didn't change track width of your front end like the 96+ spindles do. Maybe just not as much. I always thought the mounting face on both SN95 and stock 4 lug 87-93 spindles were at the same location. Guess not or else how do you explain the need for .25" spacers with 4 lug and not the other? 
I wonder how much the front wheels deflect under stress. Example, does a .5" gap between the wheel and C/O become .125" when cornering hard?
Well, some progress, not much in the way of actual work to the car, but boosted92lx came through with some drop mounts for the engine. The stockers are shot. Maximum motorsports control arms, sway bar brackets, and cc plates are here. Also ordered in a new charcoal canister and canp solenoid. All about not smelling like gasoline. Next few weeks are going to be busy but hopefully will have time to work on it soon.
So after letting the car sit without being fired for a year I got my hands dirty over the weekend. And got her fired up. Ironed out some issues with the brakes I was having, replaced the fluids and took her for a shake down run to the corner store. Didn't take any pics to add but there will be some coming shortly. It seems sitting for so long has let some unruly things escape my attention that I probably would have noticed sooner. Namely rust in the floor pans. Rest of the car is still looking solid. My goal is to keep the car running while I attempt to fix this. The suspension work that I was originally planning on doing will have to wait, but this gives me the reason to strip the car down to address some of the items I am unhappy with.
Both sides of the floor are fubar. One or several of the POs punched holes in the floor with a Jack and bad weather seals have let moisture in. My first question is what would be the best way to do this?
Buy a 2PC kit or cjpony sells an entire pan.
Both sides of the floor are fubar. One or several of the POs punched holes in the floor with a Jack and bad weather seals have let moisture in. My first question is what would be the best way to do this?
Buy a 2PC kit or cjpony sells an entire pan.
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