Sudden Electrical Issues and Now It Won't Start - Help Needed (Long Post)

DJG

New Member
Oct 10, 2007
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I'm befuddled by what just happened to me today. For a little background, I have an '88 notch in which I just installed a flex-a-lite automatic fan controller and a Grant steering wheel. After the fan controller install, I took the car for a drive and everything was fine. However, after gettting done installing the new Grant wheel today, I went for a short drive to enjoy my new addition, and everything went to hell...

About 3 minutes into my cruise, I noticed my Autometer tach was suddenly about 1,000 rpm off from my factory tach - When I came to a stoplight waiting to go left, I noticed the Autometer tach's needle was dropping slightly with every click of my turn signal. Like the draw of the turn signal was affecting the tach's reading. My initial thought was that I must have screwed something up when wiring up the fan controller and that I'd check on it when I got home. Then about 5 minutes and 2 miles later, I'm sitting at a stop light and notice that the engine was running pretty rough, the blinker was now not functioning at all, and my factory tach's reading was now also off - So, I tapped the throttle to see how the tach would respond and it hardly budged, while the Autometer jumped to about 3k, and the engine was maybe revved to 1,500 rpm. At this point, I started to get worried and just wanted to get the car home. The light turned green, I let the clutch out, and the car sputtered and didn't want to move...

I then tried revving the engine up a bit and had another try at it with the same result when I tried to put any load on the engine. So, I decided to limp the car off to the side of the road because I knew I wasn't going to make it home. I then got out to check under the hood and see if anything was loose, or if something got disconnected, or... I honestly didn't know what. The car continued to run really rough for a couple of minutes, then just died. I tried to restart it, but just got the fast clicking sound of the ignition and nothing from the starter. So, the battery was obviously at least part of the issue. Got home, checked the battery's voltage with my multimeter and it was only reading about 9.2V.

Now, if it weren't for all of the electrical gremlins that came on out of nowhere before my car fell on it's face, I would assume it was either my battery or my alternator. However, it seems to me that something else must be going on, but I don't know what.

I know it has nothing to do with the steering wheel... So that's out of the question. When I wired up the fan controller, I ran the constant power to a distribution block from which the fan was previously controlled via a console mounted switch, and the switched power to the power wire for my wiper motor. Now, the main power cable from the battery is also run directly to this distribution block (battery is mounted in trunk) - Could this new controller be causing some sort of excessive draw?

Another couple of items to note are that the car has an MSD ignition and coil.

I'm honestly lost and not good when it comes to diagnosing electrical bugs, so, if anyone can lend some insight as to what they think may be causing this, it would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Hello DJG i have an 89 mustang that i converted to use an electric fan i bought at a junk yard from an old Taurus. i don't know how the flex-a-lite is wired but maybe this will help you. i went through hell to get it to wire up with similar problems to yours. first i tried a kit i got online that had a fan controller i couldn't get it to work. it only has two leads coming from it, power and ground. i bought a generic relay from autozone for 4 bucks and a 40 amp fuse. from the relay one wire is ground, one is power and one is to control on and off. i got rid of the controller and wired the fuse to the power line to the power distribution block then the controller wire directly to the fuse box. so the fan starts every time i start the car at full blast. it's been 5+ years with no overheating problems i live in California and have driven to Vegas to problem. i posted some pictures so you can see what i did. i don't know how the flex-a-lite is wired but maybe this will help you.
 

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Well, I would fix the battery first. If you know its bad, then replace it. Also, I have always been told that the MSD ignitions are very touchy when it comes to supplied volts...they have to have 12v. I'm sure your after market tach is wired off of the MSD output, so if the MSD is having a hard time running (hence the poor engine running), then your tach may be suffering too.

Just a starting point. You may be worried over something small. Replace the battery and then let us know how it turned out.
 
Thanks for the feedback guys.

Well, I charged the battery overnight. Checked it this morning prior to starting it up, and it was just over 14v. Unplugged it, cranked it over, fired right up and ran great! Checked the running voltage at the battery - 12.15v... Let it warm up and when the fan kicked on, it fell to 11.95v, then back up to 12.12v when it shut off.

From what I gather, my 130A alternator is toast... Not sure if that has anything to do with my new fan controller, but also don't know why it would. As noted before, this fan has been in the car, and been run numerous times via a manual switch with no issues. When I wired the new controller up, I ran the constant power to the exact same source the fan was already wired to, and the switched power to the wiper motor. Could this little control module be pulling so much of a draw that it killed my alternator after running for a total of maybe 30-40 minutes? Although random as hell, it seems to me that my alternator just took a dirt nap on it's own...

Thoughts, feedback??
 
Well guys, apparently I'm an idiot. I followed my power wire to see if there was anything wrong with it (corrosion, break, etc.) and realized that it was run to the same distribution block I wired my fan controller to. Or, I should say, it was wired to... It had apparently fallen off when I connected the fan controller and was just hanging in a dark corner of the inner fender well, unconnected... :D Hahaha

Hooked it back up, fired the car up, and it ran at 14.6v at cold idle. All is well - Thanks everyone for your help!