suggestions on mods (cam, pisons, supercharger, etc) long post

[Burningdog]

I've already figured out that I want to do engine work before I get a supercharger because I can do that in steps, instead of spending around $4000 for the supercharger and having to install it all at once. I want to get a cam and get the upper and lower intakes and the heads if possible, port and polished. But because I would be doing that before the supercharger, I don't think the pistons and stuff could handle the power after i put that on. I know it says around 300 (rw?)hp with maybe an exhaust, so adding a cam and some port and polished stuff might make that a little higher, too high for the stock pistons and rods.

So i'm trying to figure out what order to do everything, and specifically which items to get. In another post i've found that a 207*/215*, .493"/.495" lift, 112-114LCA cam is probably good for my application because I live in San Diego with stricter emissions, and I'll be going with procharger later. When I get the cam installed by a shop (i dont' know how long it would take me to do it, and I would have to have my car, winter break is only so long) should I have them put in the pistons and rods, if it is even recommended that I get them. I figure the engine will be half apart for the cam install, why not trade pistons. If getting pistons are recomended, which ones are recommended (flat top or dished, and company), I'd like to keep stock compression, or maybe a little less because of the supercharger.

I figure i'll get a chip when I get the cam so that it can correct the timing so that I can pass emissions, so i'll probably get a ford chip that I can get reprogrammed when I get the supercharger. And when I get the cam, what else will I need, I'm expecting to need springs and possibly new lifters, and if I do, which ones would I need.

Will I need new head bolts after the head's been removed. I think i heard that only certain block types, depending on what type of metal they are, need new ones once they've been removed because they stretch or somethign. What type of block do we have?

I want to get an 8.8 rear end either with stock gears or 3.73s if they come with them.

I have a 99 v6 5speed 30,000 miles with true dual exhaust and an ebay intake, whick I know i'll need to ditch when i get the supercharger. Thanks for any future help

 

[atlblue2000]

Whoa...I'll try to cover what I can. That's alot of questions, but I commend you for asking instead of just dumping thousands of dollars on educated guesses.

Now as far as the cam swap you will not even have to remove the heads, much less get down to the pistons and the bottom end. But if you are seriously looking into doing the H/C/I plus a blower then a built nottom end would be nice insurance...plus with a pulley change or a power pipe you can safely up the boost on that beast when you choose to do so.

If you are going to have a shop install the blower and cam when the time comes, I'd also let them do the bottom end work too. For the pistons, dished pistons will yield a lower CR and thus be more suitable for boost applications. Flat ops will conversely yield higher CR more suited towards big N/A setups. As far as manufacturers I'd give Mik a ring @ RPM or Tom Y @ SSM and see what he can do for you. Both Ross and Wiseco make a really good piston from all I've read, but don't take my word over the aforementioned fellas. Anywho, since you are going with a prof install, I'd just take the cam, new springs pistons, pins, rings etc.. to you shop and have them do it all at once. Ultimately, if I were you and it were feasible, I'd wait until I have the entire H/C/I combo (buying all three at once might get you a slight discount anyways) in hand along with the new pistons (I'd also look into a nice set of forged rods while you are in there) and what not then I would have it ALL installed in one shot. It might cost a good bit up front, but it beats repeated trips to the shop for this new part and that new part.

Go ahead and get you a good set of ARP head bolts or studs when you get your p/p heads put on. I believe the 3.8 block uses trq-to-yield bolts anyhow so you can't reuse them. At that mileage, your lifters should be just fine.

Again, an 8.8 would be a little moe added insurance. 3.73 would be nice, btw.

If I left something out let me know or just ask again

One other possible alternative is the 4.3L shortblock from SSM. Its pricey, but it will take anything you can throw at it and then some. It comes fully balanced and assembled as well. Just something to think about. PM or email mkonor about this one.

 

[Jamez]

You could always wait on the rear end till your stock one breaks. It would make for an interesting post and pics

 

[Burningdog]

You could always wait on the rear end till your stock one breaks. It would make for an interesting post and pics

I wouldn't mind doing that, as long as it doesn't leave me stranded somewhere, which I think is what would happen. Thanks altblue for all the info.

Head bolts for 97-03 3.8s: $50 +$8 S&H
Ford OE Metal Head Gaskets for 99-03 3.8 $80 +$7 S&H
Ford OE "split port" intake gaskets for 99-03 $42 +$7 S&H
Dished pistons: $527 + $13 S&H
Pins and Pin fit: $70 + Free Shipping
Hastings Piston Rings for 96-03: $100 + Free
V6 Cam with 96-03 535 lift Conical Springs: $370 +$18 S&H
Pushrods $50
=1289
99-03 Upper: $300 +$100 Core
99-00 nonIMRC Lower: $250 +$130 Core
99+ 3.8 Split Port Cylinder Heads $550 $200
=1100


99-03 v6: complete h/c/i $1630 + $480 - $520 Core

I don't know if all of that stuff is necessary, and this is all from rpm-mustangs.com. I don't know that the h/c/i package is a good deal, but maybe just since i don't know everythign about this stuff it is. This type of stuff is what I want help with, figuring out what exactly to get, because when I say I want to get a cam, and pistons, there's all these other things you have to get, like gaskets, bolts, etc, so if anyone could take the time, or atleast tell me what types of things to get, and then maybe when I talk to the sales associate, they can fill in the rest. Thanks

 

[GREENBIOCH]

If you got Adj RR's you wouldn't need new pushrods and oyu wouldn't have to shim it, makes it easier, but the RR's are more expensive. Your going the same route as me. Although I'm not going to build the bottm end. If you talk to Mik or Tom like alt blue said, they will be able to give you a good idea of what you need. It looks like you have a good start to your list though. I got a custom cam done based on what my mods were and what my future mods intend to be, they can help you with that.

Some of that stuff like gaskets and bolts, I would check your local ford dealer it may be cheaper to get it locally then get it shipped and pay shipping charges. you will also need assembly lube, oil, coolant, etc.

If you go to SSX www.supersixmotorsports.com there is a good write up on installing a cam, it basically has all the stuff your going to need for this swap. It has the majority of stuff listed .

 

[97v6Silver]

is your avatar "the cheat" from home star runner? if not it sure looks like it...

 

[atlblue2000]

I wouldn't mind doing that, as long as it doesn't leave me stranded somewhere, which I think is what would happen. Thanks altblue for all the info.

Head bolts for 97-03 3.8s: $50 +$8 S&H
Ford OE Metal Head Gaskets for 99-03 3.8 $80 +$7 S&H
Ford OE "split port" intake gaskets for 99-03 $42 +$7 S&H
Dished pistons: $527 + $13 S&H
Pins and Pin fit: $70 + Free Shipping
Hastings Piston Rings for 96-03: $100 + Free
V6 Cam with 96-03 535 lift Conical Springs: $370 +$18 S&H
Pushrods $50
=1289
99-03 Upper: $300 +$100 Core
99-00 nonIMRC Lower: $250 +$130 Core
99+ 3.8 Split Port Cylinder Heads $550 $200
=1100


99-03 v6: complete h/c/i $1630 + $480 - $520 Core

I don't know if all of that stuff is necessary, and this is all from rpm-mustangs.com. I don't know that the h/c/i package is a good deal, but maybe just since i don't know everythign about this stuff it is. This type of stuff is what I want help with, figuring out what exactly to get, because when I say I want to get a cam, and pistons, there's all these other things you have to get, like gaskets, bolts, etc, so if anyone could take the time, or atleast tell me what types of things to get, and then maybe when I talk to the sales associate, they can fill in the rest. Thanks

As far as the prices go, since all of those quotes are from Mik's place, he might cut you some sort of a deal if you were to purchase all of it at once. Dont take that to the bank, but I know when I was looking into full exh, he was willing to cut me a decent deal and that wasn't near the cost of what you are looking to spend. If I am not mistaken, Mik has a H/C combo package on his website that saves you a few bucks as well. I agree with the adj rockers, but if you dont want to drop the extra dime for them, adj and shimming the rockers isn't too difficult and if you aren't doing the install anyways, then any half-competent shop will be able to install the non-adj rockers with their eyes closed. I do agree with the above about checking locally for the gaskets and such...at the very least it wont hurt to price them out before you order them online. As far as the tech stuff, like cam & piston specs, whoever you choose to order from will be happy to help you assemble this combination based on exactly what your goals for it are.

 

[Burningdog]

I just won an '01 engine on ebay, waiting for it to be shipped here. I still need suggestions on mods and stuff, and order. I plan on keeping it a 3.8, but doing about everything else you can do to the inside of a 3.8. Thanks

 

[atlblue2000]

Well, by mods do you mean to rebuild it (i.e. pistons, rods, crank, etc)??

I know SSM has a forged piston/rod combo with pins, rings, etc that goes for around $1,000. Then you just need to get a fresh set of bearings (main, cam & rod) and a new crank (or just get yours looked over in case it needs to be reground). If you are building up the bottom end like this, I go ahead and put some main studs from ARP in there, too. Just a little more insurance. I would also suggest a .030 overbore just to make sure the cylinders have a nice clean cross hatch pattern and are good to go. Most aftermarket pistons are more commonly found with the .030 overbore anyways. It wont make much of a change at all in displacement, but it ensures clean cylinder walls and allows for a little valve unshrouding, very helpful if you ever decide to go with big valve heads. I think O read that a couple of guys I know spent between $10-$15 per cyl to get them bored out, but I cant be 100% sure on that.