Summit/Northern Radiator Mounting - Summit 380100 ok?

[70vert]

Hey all,
Got a Summit/Northern 30" wide, 19.5" high, 26" core radiator:

Summit SUM-380463 - Summit Racing® Direct Fit Aluminum Radiators - Overview - SummitRacing.com

and am wondering if anyone has used a similar 19.5" high radiator and if the Summit "Universal" brackets below fit fine. I'm sure I could use these as a basis, and they're cheap, and rig up the rest, but this should be a nice thread discussing how these popular radiators mount up to our core supports.
If I measure up from the base where the tie rod support comes in, the height is almost identical to the OEM radiator if that helps.

Summit SUM-380100 - Summit Racing® Radiator Mounting Brackets - Overview - SummitRacing.com

as an aside, if you use this fan Flex-a-lite 210 - Flex-a-lite Low Profile Electric Fans - Overview - SummitRacing.com with that radiator, you will have to cut the rubber gasket on the outer edge entirely off, or tuck it in. The shroud is 1/4" too wide for the core, but once the gasket is cut down the rest of it gives a good seal.
Yes, the battery is going to the trunk. I'm using their Taylor cables, 20', and a short ground in the trunk, and a Moroso NHRA approved battery box.

 

[Cobra ssc]

I bought those mounts and used them with no problem. But my radiator support was modified by cutting the opening larger, making the support completely flat on the mounting side. Does the direct fit radiator bolt into the factory locations so the mounting kit wouldn't be needed?

 

[jakstang]

I used those mounts also...however I only used the bottom and I made my own custom top bracket that holds not only the radiator but the electric fan too. I installed it the same way as COBRA by cutting the hole in the support and mounting it flush...Its a pretty straight forward setup and looks trick once its done...

 

[iskwezm]

I had 4 tabs welded to the tanks to mount to the core support

 

[70vert]

Well, I ordered them, they were cheap enough . . .

@Cobra: So, where the core support bulges out, you cut that out and it fits more or less flat against the top of the core support? I thought about that briefly, and that might work. I think I'd have less clearance the farther I go forward, and the radiator is almost too tall as it is. Maybe it is too tall.

@jakstang: I have 6 of those plastic tabs that come with the Flex-a-Lite fan and work with the mounting channels in the Summit. The fan came with 4 and I just ordered an extra 2 so I should be fine using those tabs. The fan is shorter than the core so those tabs work well. Looks like I can use the bottom for sure, though, top is up in the air.

@iskwezm: Heh, I figured you'd do something custom and trick like that. If I can pull this radiator off, wait until you see how little clearance I have. The top of the filler neck just touches the hood when closed, but I think I know where and can cut a little hole (in the underhood structure) for just enough clearance. Pics when it all works out - I squeeze 'em too - radiators that is . . .

 

[iskwezm]

@iskwezm: Heh, I figured you'd do something custom and trick like that. . . .

Nothing custom about it, its called lazinezz and not wanting to order more parts. My radiator cap actually sits under the lip on the core support and the bottom sits on the strut braces.
View attachment 243810

 

[Tim65GT]

Mine sits below the core support lip, but the cap is just above it. I clearanced a "C" into the lip for the neck. It's not noticeable because I have the hood seal mounted on the core support lip. Here is a pic without the hood seal:

And one with:

Here are the lower brackets I made. I glued about 1/4" of rubber inside of them and the bottom of the tanks rests in them. The top is secured with bolts through the core support into the top of the radiator lip with rubber shock mounts sandwiched in between.

Buncha pics here.

 

[jakstang]

Ya using the top brackets were tricky at first...here is what i ended up doing until I changed to a single top bracket...

I had to cut and bend the top brackets in the Summit Kit, then I taped them so they could be bolted into the radiator support...

I will try to get a pic of the current setup soon...

 

[70vert]

@iskwezm: yeah, I wish mine sat on the strut braces. I thought it would, but I didn't do enough measuring first and it sits on the frame rails. It should work though and the extra width lets me use the fan I want to use.

@tim65: man, I looked all over the place for a 3-sheave crank pulley to use with my 3G alt conversion and there you are sporting one. Nice. I'm going with a March serpentine setup on the crate motor and have had no issues with the single v-belt so far on the alt as I'm not drawing too much from it yet. (but I might with the electric fan) Looks like you went serpentine as well . . . I'll just be driving p/s and the alt and the waterpump, no AC for me.

I might steal those lower brackets from Tim, but I might see how the Summit ones mount at the bottom since my rad will sit higher up than you guys that have it on the strut braces. I'll post pics here when it's done.

 

[Travis77]

Thanks for the link, it helped lots.
I took measurements and I got 27.5 between my frame rails. So notching these may not be worth the hassle because I should be able to fit a 26" radiator no problem.
My big decision now is how tall of a radiator to get. If I mount it inside the rails I can bring it down to the tie rod supports(like mentioned earlier) and this would provide clearance for over an 18" tall rad. I do need to make sure that the filler tube doesn't screw me though.
I was just a little stumped today trying to visualize a lower mounting bracket/spacer that would sit under rad and on top of tie rod braces.

It may be off topic or need of another post, but anyone use twin spals instead of flexalite? Is one superior to the other?
Reason I ask, is if I trimmed the bevel completely flush to the front of core support I still can't get more than 6.5" of clearance. So I may be forced to look for a slimmer fan assembly. That or slightly slimmer rad.,dang I keep going in circles here. No wonder my ride is still collecting dust.

 

[70vert]

The problem is, narrower dual-fan setups are hard to find

Travis,
The reason I went with my width of radiator core is that I didn't want an overlapping dual fan or a dual fan that had the fans diagonally mounted rather than side-by-side. It seemed that all the narrower ones had a similar design. The unintended result was that the side tanks made it just a bit too wide to fit between the frame rails.
I'm not sure about all the SPALs out there, and they seem to be great fans, but you might have a problem finding just the right fit for your radiator. I'm happy with how my fans and shroud fit on the rad, how narrow they are, and how there is a gap in the middle so the main crank pulley and water pump pulley "cones" shouldn't interfere with the fan. We'll see how the rad fits the car.
As far as the lower mounting to tie rod supports, you could almost do anything in that low-visibility area, or bend a metal bracket to go farther forward - there are lots of pics online of similar solutions. I wouldn't sweat that part of the decision so much, it'll work itself out, maybe even with a trip to Home Depot and some matte black spray paint.

 

[Travis77]

Thanks for the help. I will post what I end up doing.

 

[jbuening]

For my Northern 27.5x19 radiator I reused the stock mustang top and bottom mounts. I had to squeeze the radiator channels slightly to fit the brackets, but it worked. Ever figure out if you are going to have clearance issues with the hood when putting that radiator on top of the frame rails? I assume that is what you are doing.

 

[70vert]

not yet, but I can swing by the shop

as soon as engine bay is detailed and the KRC PS pump reservoir is out of the way. It's currently blocking the installation and will have to be moved a little farther back, down, and out of the way to test it. Should be able to in the coming weeks . . .

 

[70vert]

yes, there is hood interference.

I'm going to end up getting a shorter radiator or having the bottoms of the side tanks cut at an angle and re-welded rather than mess around with the frame rails. Either that, or go with a 16" tall, 31" wide griffin radiator. I should have done something like this in the first place - I'd recommend something like this who wants a 31" wide radiator that sits on or over the frame rails:

Poly Performance Inc. :: Cooling Systems & Parts :: Ron Davis Radiators :: Ford Style Radiator :: Ron Davis Ford Double Pass Radiator with Fans (31"x16"x3") - Jeep JK Synergy Suspension Systems, Fox Racing Shox, Beard, CTM, Johnny Joints®, Currie Ent

And here are photos showing the bottom of the radiator on the frame rails - an angle cut would have to be made in both sides, the petcock removed or moved, and the radiator sandwiched down between the rails:

 

[jbuening]

I was afraid of that. What about removing the filler neck and mounting a remote filler neck?

From my experience with the 19" tall Northern radiator, with it sitting atop the strut rod braces I have a slight hood clearance issue with the radiator cap. My cap is a billet cover over a standard cap, so it likely wouldn't have an issue without the cover. For you to notch the bottoms of the tank, you'd pretty much have to notch it so that the bottom channels of the core touch the strut braces. This would pretty much minimize any flow going to the lower radiator tubes.....which would put you back to the cooling capacity of the 16" I can say that the 27.5" wide Northern Crossflow is the absolute widest you can go with a 19" tall radiator. Good luck with the mods!

 

[65 fastback]

For the mounting brackets, I went to a local metal shop and had them bend me some aluminum. Then I took some measurements and drilled my own mounting holes.

 

[70vert]

I really should start a separate thread for 31" radiators . . .

I was afraid of that. What about removing the filler neck and mounting a remote filler neck?

jbuening, that could be the best and cheapest solution. The entire reason I got the Summit/Flex-a-Lite low-profile combo was for low price and thinness. I don't want to have to hack apart my core support or interfere with a March pulley system because my radiator/fan combo sits too far back. And if I'm cooling a 408 stroker with over 500hp, I think I'll need 2500+cfm. The Flex-a-lite gives me 2,600 supposedly.

The shop installing the new motor is a Ron Davis dealer, maybe I could get them to separate their fan and radiator combo and ship me just the radiator. The thing is, this Griffin radiator looks very similar to the Ron Davis - 31x16, dual row, 1" tubes, 3" thick (Griffin says 2.25" core, I assume Ron Davis is the same?) - shop owner says the Griffin is too cheap at $180, and I agree, but there seems to be nothing wrong with it compared to the Ron Davis.

Griffin Thermal Products 1-26271-X - Griffin Aluminum Pro Series Radiators - Overview - SummitRacing.com

So it looks like the choices are:

1. Move filler neck and/or cut down tanks - just the filler neck should be enough.

2. Ron Davis replacement 31" radiator without fan. (they've got a great fan but it's thick)

3. Griffin replacement radiator for $180 - the mounting tabs for it don't look as robust as on the Summit/Northern but it probably would work?

I think I am going to start a 31" radiator thread - this could help out anyone who wants a wider radiator for whatever reason, and they need to sit on the frame rails obviously.

 

[70vert]

Rather than going with the expansion/fill tanks, I'm just going to go with a shorter, but just as wide, Griffin radiator from Summit. It's a steal at $175 and has the right core width I'm looking for, but is shorter so it shouldn't be an issue. No petcock, no hookups for an auto trans cooler, but I've got a manual so that shouldn't be an issue:

Griffin Thermal Products 1-26271-X - Griffin Aluminum Pro Series Radiators - Overview - SummitRacing.com

This should get me on the road - now that the engine's done, it's crunch time, and I'm just getting the last-minute stuff sorted out - throttle cable and coil are coming on the same order and headers are my only real hurdle now.

 

[70vert]

The shorter Griffin 26271-X and my flex-a-lite fan work perfectly!

Got the Griffin today - fits like a glove with the fan I listed above - just enough width and height for this fan! The description doesn't list a petcock, but it even has that at $179! So, these two parts fit perfectly with each other - have to figure out your own mounting hardware, though, or modify the plastic tabs that come with the Flex-a-Lite fan. All this can be yours for the low, low price of a battery relocation and about $540. The fan is not available at Summit anymore but I found it at Amazon in stock, although it was about $100 more than what I paid - that's reflected in the $540 price. I'll let everybody know how it performs . . .


Griffin Thermal Products 1-26271-X - Griffin Aluminum Pro Series Radiators - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Flex-a-lite 210 - Flex-a-lite Low Profile Electric Fans - Overview - SummitRacing.com

This combo should work on ANY vintage mustang with the battery relocated to the trunk and battery tray removed. It will sit on the frame rails and although mine is a '70, there's enough room on either side that it would work for a '65-66. It's short enough at 16" high that it should fit any year - the 19" just hit the hood of my '70, so 3" shorter should cover everybody.

Hope this thread helps others! :SNSign: