Super Simple O2 Question

Both O2 sensors are the same. If somehow the wiring connectors were plugged into the wrong side, crossed over, it would be very apparent. That could cause some strange behavior.

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/article...c-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart .

warmdye said:

She isn't throwin any codes.

They were mixed up. It runs much better. I'd say reduced my bucking by 40-50%.

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you piqued my interest - did you physically swap the sensors or the connectors?

Me too - my wiring harness wouldn't let the driver's side O2 connector be plugged into the passenger-side sensor.

warmdye said:

I have longtube headers so the harness has been lengthened. They are equal length now. I swapped the O2s not the harnesses.

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You may still have a bad sensor, I would recommend that you dump the codes to make sure that both sensors are working up to spec.