supercharged 66 347

i posted one earlier and left out info but i am curious on the tuneing of a paxton carburated supercharger. i have a 347 with 4340 forger crank and h beam rods and srp pistions that is about 9:1 compression with a roller cam at a 500 lift. i am using a holly 4150hp carburetor. i am going to run stock boost and use the msd boost retard box. if anyone has some tips esecially with the carburetor to make my tune as easy as possible that would be great.
 
The BTM is a good idea, it will help you to have the timing retard while at boost and return when not. There really isn't much to it. Set your idle where you want it. If you are running an electric fuel pump use a regulator with a boost fitting and a bypass. You should still set you timing back a few degrees at the distributor. You probably won't see boost at idle unless you have high rpm idle. Watch you temp gauge, if it looks like you are idling at a higher temp than usual then open up your idle mix screws. I can't think of anything else right now but if I do I'll come back. If you have anymore ideas or questions post them. Sounds like your close to firing it up. I plan on having a supercharger on all my cars.
 
my block is my weekest link but i am going to tune it on the dyno so i will get back to you about the horse power and tourque. hope to fire it up next week also installing a fuel cell so things are taking longer then expected.
 
allcarfan said:
how will a stock block hold up to that abuse?

I ran 6lbs of boost on a stock 66 289. Well, I had a performer RPM cam and performer intake. The stock heads were the biggest drag. They really choke the engine. It was still a blast. I can't describe the difference. I can say that wit hthe supercharger on the very mild 289 I was making more power than my roller 351W with aluminum heads. I'm working on a 331 stroker and plans for a 408 stroker both to run 12 lbs boost.
 
The carbed paxton set-up was designed for the stock block... These are not blow throughs...

When running strokers and heavily modified engines, you would need forged internals, a light rotating assem. and a stud girdle.

Bayboss, you will need to have this dyno tuned to get the carb jets and timing right. Either way you're better off a little fat out of the gate.

With all the work done on my heads, the cam and intake and using their stock pulley, I'm getting 5 lbs max. 457 to the ground.

If you have a roller motor, get a cam and intake that has some R's. The SC wants to run up top.

These are tested from the man. with the Mighty Demon 650 #5282010GC. They are pretty close out of the box. They send the fuel lines for both the Holley and the Demon in the kit. We also found that the late model Vortech turn tube works real nice for getting a little colder air. With tall valve covers you will flat out need it.

http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/images/Engine/DSCF0022b.jpg
 
brianj5600 said:
?????? They are not draw throughs. They are not EFI. I'm confused. :shrug:
technically its not a blow through,it pressurizes the carb in a enclosure.EFI has nothing to do with it,thats electronic fuel injection.

this is my blow through
engine.jpg
 
10secgoal said:
A box is still blow thru. Since the fuel is not drawn thru the charger system.
Carbs before the turbo or charger is draw thru.

I guess if you're talking about it in that sense, you could call it a blow through.

However if you are pressurizing the carb with a box, it is not commonly referred to as a blow through, especially for technical discussion. For those who don't already know, these don't require modification to the carb's metering blocks and float bowls to function propertly like the classic blow through design as isk is showing above.
 
mdjay said:
I guess if you're talking about it in that sense, you could call it a blow through.

However if you are pressurizing the carb with a box, it is not commonly referred to as a blow through, especially for technical discussion. For those who don't already know, these don't require modification to the carb's metering blocks and float bowls to function propertly like the classic blow through design as isk is showing above.
What modification is need to the metering blocks and float bowls for a blow through? I know you need hardened floats, and to equalize pressure between the boost and the fuel so you don't end up pushing the fuel back out of the float bowls.
 
tnaks for the info like i said i will probably have it in in about a week and will take it to the dyno and yes i do have a forged rotating assembly so my block will be the test. called paxton and with amodified engine you need to use an electric fuel pump and with tall valve covers you have to order a different pipe that runs $150.