SuperCharger Tuning Help

[black50]

Have a couple of questions concerning tuning on a supercharger?

What should the base timing be with running a 10-13lbs of boost?
I pulled the spout and set it to 8 base, car wouldn't idle unless I adjusted the TB "accufab 75mm" to dump more fuel. But as soon as I put it in gear the car falls on its face. so it running really rich.

Where should the tps be set at on voltage?

Car has a FMU, I'm running a vacum tree right off the Intake Manifold. has a 6:1 fuel ratio disk in it. Is this correct for 38lb injectors?

At idle considering the FMU, how much fuel pressure should I have at Idle?
Currently sitting at 40-42lbs I heard that FMU dump 12 lbs for every lb of boost, don't know if that is true

How much Vaccum shoud be reading on the boost Gauge at Idle?
think its reading 12lbs

what would be the best sequence in tuning?

I don't have a really nice bypass valve, its adjustable with different spring rates I have the the lighest spring in there right now, I ran the vacum line straight from the tree on the intake manifold. however when its hooked up to the inlet pipe, and powerpipe, the car runs like **** barely can't get it to idle right. so I have a it off right now..and I'm not getting all the boost I should be.

Just trying to get the car tuned right...
Please someone give me some advice before I set this car on fire

thanks in advance

 

[Mike in Texas]

Supercharger tune

Having just installed a paxton 1220 sl, here's my input. You can get the car running ok on your own but to get the performance right you will have to get a dyno tune.

You need to post the mods on your engine for the guys that really know to be able to help but here are some general answers:

Base timing - 10-14 degrees depending on what your car likes. You will need a timing boost retard to dial the timing back during boost.

TPS - set at .9 - .98v

FMU: 6:1 or 4:1 if you're running rich at idle, the 6:1 is probably right for you.

Fuel pressure: 36 - 40 with vac off.

Tune Sequence: I'll leave that to the guys that know more.

Bypass: what do you mean "hooked up to the inlet pipe" and "powerpipe"?

Vacuum - a lot of variables, with my e303 cam I get ~ 12 on idle.

Tip: your MAF is a major factor with an SC

 

[Foxfan88]

set the base timing to 10 degrees with spout out.
set the FP to 39 psi (no vac on reg)

and take the FMU off and a get a properly sized MAF and injectors and get a custom tune.

will make more power, be safer and drive 10x better.

 

[bubba-dough]

set the base timing to 10 degrees with spout out.
set the FP to 39 psi (no vac on reg) and take the FMU off and a get a properly sized MAF and injectors and get a custom tune. will make more power, be safer and drive 10x better.

Assuming you weren't having any problems before the s/c install, and that everything is installed correctly, starting point settings should be like mentioned with the addition of the tps @ ~1V.

Plus FMU's are junk band-aids. Get the proper size injectors.

If you have a pretty good set-up with mods a dyno tune wouldn't be a bad idea.

 

[black50]

I have lucas 38# pound injectors, Pro M 88mm MAS setup calibrated for 38's

The Motor is a 304 forged shortblock 9.5.1 compression on the keith black pistons, Crowler 512 lift cam 1.7 roller rockers, edelbrock RPM heads, edelbrock RPM II intake manifold, accufab 75mm TB, All MSD ignition, coil, 6al, pro billet dizzy.

I understand going to the shop and dyno tuning would be the best route,
However I'm a die hard DIY guy, and enjoy the experience in learning, and sharping my mechincal skills. this car is one of my hobbies, and excuse not to be in the house, I've spared no expsense so far on this project. Good detailed info would be nice!

I know there's alot of variables that could be affecting the cars performance thats why I'm asking specific questions so I can take those factors out of the tuning.

 

[Foxfan88]

i'm the DIY kinda guy too, you know you could tune the car yourself, using a tweecer or moates QH.

trust me, actual EEC tuning is the way you need to go. will make more power and exhibit awesome drivablilty and be safer.

IMO a car gets to the point where tuning is almost mandatory. a power adder almost always falls in that category.

i used to run my old blower setup untuned with an FMU etc etc, i thought i ran good enough then i go to tuning the car myself and i was amazed at the difference it all made. granted there is a learning curve but its worth is in the end.

 

[black50]

yeah I'm stumped

I'm getting really frustrated now.. so Im going to dyno tune the car, and get a chipped burnt for the ecu. I don't have enough gauges to tell me what the F is going on!!!

 

[Cobra912]

set the base timing to 10 degrees with spout out.
set the FP to 39 psi (no vac on reg)

and take the FMU off and a get a properly sized MAF and injectors and get a custom tune.

will make more power, be safer and drive 10x better.

I agree. I had to pony up the cash to ditch the FMU, buy some 42lbs 'ers, and a 80mm mass air meter, a Chipmaster Revolution Chip and pay for tune.

I'm getting really frustrated now.. so Im going to dyno tune the car, and get a chipped burnt for the ecu. I don't have enough gauges to tell me what the F is going on!!!

I just started my car today and I tell ya - the money was well worth it. runs great!

 

[noneck134]

Vortech V1 SC Trim with 42's, 255 fp, chip, dyno tune and ditched the FMU.
IMO it's all a waste without the dyno.