Surging idle, and PVC problem?? ran some checks, pulled codes, Pics inside..

[1990Coupe]

ok so i posted a couple of months back that i was having a problem with the car surging.. mostly stalling when i downshift while coming to a light. Also the car will backfire a lil bit thru the intake (sometimes exhaust) only when its cold. once its warm its fine. Now i ran a check yesturday (finally had time) with the engine off i got this - 34, 67 (no biggie) 81,82,85,84... my car is a 4 --> 8 swap, and some things are disconnected see pics -->

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Is it ok if these have no vacuume lines running to them? Since the pics i just disconnected these sensors since they arent hooked to the vacuume lines anyways, and they were cracked as well.. Now when i went to pull codes while engine running, the reader didnt pull anything.. like it was dead. upon further inspection i noticed NO ENGINE GROUND TO THE FIREWALL! so for something temp i used some allegator clips and a 16gauge wire to make a ground and the reader went on - but it was flashing 1's and long 1's.. so i dont know what to make of that. I do not have a volt meter, but in messing around i was playing with the TPS and got it to idle good, it drove awesome, but when i came home and shut her down and restarted her she went back to the same surge and stalling at lights.. I replaced the IAC and ACT sensors - i added a pic of the old ACT sensor i pulled out here -->

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also i have no baffle inside my valve covers (1.6 rr's) and i think i have an oil problem in my intake (judging by the ACT).. i pulled the cover of the intake off and you can see for yourself.. Should i add a oil catch at the PVC, and just cap off the valve cover line to the TB and put a breather?? here's the pics..

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also can i cap off the EGR?? im like at a loss,... also here's my computer.. its an a9p, thats ok right since its a 5 speed car?

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sorry for the long post i just wanna get her running right so i can store her

 

[Boss 351]

5 speeds had A9L but I think the P is programmed differently to give a little more power for the automatics

The thing you're holding in your hand is the EGR vac. regulator. You need manifold > regulator > EGR vacuum and that should work. The other two things on the plate are the TAB/TAD solenoids, they are for the thermacular pump.

Sounds like the EGR is stuck open or something (if you've changed the IAC). Put in a good ground, check to see if the computer has a good ground. That is most likely the problem.

 

[1990Coupe]

thanks for the reply - ill put in a good ground and set the TPS tonight. WIth the EGR, i have no smog pump, and no emissions at all, can i just take off the egr valve and put a plate in there? also all that oil around the egr (i didnt clean it so i could show you guys) is that getting sucked up from the valve cover? i read in the pvc thread i should keep this line running from the tb to valve cover, but im tempted to cap it at the tb and cover and just run a breather

 

[Boss 351]

I wouldn't run a breather, an oil catch can like you said would work wonders. You could block the EGR off but you'd need to tell the computer to not bother with the EGR stuff... personally I wouldn't remove the EGR it doesn't rob power and it's a win-win situation.

BTW I had a bad computer ground (wire next to the battery, 1 pin connector) and my car had strange problems, no codes could be pulled out using my scantool either. I fixed the ground and it worked perfectly thereafter. I hope your problem is as simple as this.

 

[1990Coupe]

I wouldn't run a breather, an oil catch can like you said would work wonders. You could block the EGR off but you'd need to tell the computer to not bother with the EGR stuff... personally I wouldn't remove the EGR it doesn't rob power and it's a win-win situation.

BTW I had a bad computer ground (wire next to the battery, 1 pin connector) and my car had strange problems, no codes could be pulled out using my scantool either. I fixed the ground and it worked perfectly thereafter. I hope your problem is as simple as this.

maybe i can run in inline kind of oil catch between tb and valve cover to see if im pulling oil thru that as well as an oil catch from the PVC. Ill go over all grounds see if any more are missing.. like i said i messed with the TPS (i dont have a volt meter, ill have one tonight) and in just playing aroudn with it i got her to stop surging (however idle was at 900) but she ran great, no stalling at stop lights and no more surge.. could a mis adjusted TPS along with no engine ground cause this? it seems too simple?

 

[1990Coupe]

ps - fuel pressure with vac on is 30, vac off is 33.. not sure if this helps any?

 

[aleborjas]

men clean that engine

 

[1990Coupe]

men clean that engine

haha i know i wanted some pics of it like that - i bought it that way and i wanted to show my oil/pvc problem

 

[1990Coupe]

5 speeds had A9L but I think the P is programmed differently to give a little more power for the automatics

The thing you're holding in your hand is the EGR vac. regulator. You need manifold > regulator > EGR vacuum and that should work. The other two things on the plate are the TAB/TAD solenoids, they are for the thermacular pump.

Sounds like the EGR is stuck open or something (if you've changed the IAC). Put in a good ground, check to see if the computer has a good ground. That is most likely the problem.

i just re- read this, is it ok for me to keep the EGR vac regulator, and the tab/tad solenoids unhooked? or should i at least hook the EGR vac regulator back up since its pretty easy? also on the EGR where the vac is susposed to plug in, is there susposed to be any vacuum? cause when i put my finger on it i got nothing

 

[jrichker]

Code 34 Or 334 - EGR voltage above closed limit - Failed sensor, carbon between EGR pintle valve and seat holding the valve off its seat. Remove the EGR valve and clean it with carbon remover. Prior to re-installing see if you can blow air through the flange side of the EGR by mouth. If it leaks, there is carbon stuck on the pintle valve seat, replace the EGR valve ($85-$95).

If the blow by test passes, and you have replaced the sensor, then you have electrical ground problems. Check the resistance between the black/white wire on the MAP/BARO sensor and then the black/white wire on the EGR and the same wire on the TPS. It should be less than 1 ohm. Next check the resistance between the black/white wire and the negative battery post. It should be less than 1 ohm.

Note that all resistance tests must be done with power off. Measuring resistance with a circuit powered on will give false readings and possibly damage the meter.

Let’s put on our Inspector Gadget propeller head beanies and think about how this works:
The EGR sensor is a variable resistor with ground on one leg and Vref (5 volts) on the other. Its’ resistance ranges from 4000 to 5500 Ohms measured between Vref & ground, depending on the sensor. The center connection of the variable resistor is the slider that moves in response to the amount of vacuum applied. The slider has some minimum value of resistance greater than 100 ohms so that the computer always sees a voltage present at its’ input. If the value was 0 ohms, there would be no voltage output. Then the computer would not be able to distinguish between a properly functioning sensor and one that had a broken wire or bad connection. The EGR I have in hand reads 700 Ohms between the slider (EPV) and ground (SIG RTN) at rest with no vacuum applied. The EGR valve or sensor may cause the voltage to be above closed limits due to the manufacturing tolerances that cause the EGR sensor to rest at a higher position than it should.

This will affect idle quality by diluting the intake air charge

Code 67 - clutch not depressed (5 speed) or car not in neutral or park (auto) or A/C in On position when codes where dumped. Possible neutral safety switch or wiring problem. This code may prevent you from running the Key On Engine On tests. You can generally ignore this code, since it has no effect on engine performance.

Code 81 – Secondary Air Injection Diverter Solenoid failure AM2. The solenoid valve located on the back side of the passenger side wheel well is not functional. Possible bad wiring, bad connections, missing or defective solenoid valve. Check the solenoid valve for +12 volts at the Red wire and look for the Lt Green/Black wire to switch from +12 volts to 1 volt or less. The computer controls the valve by providing a ground path on the LT Green/Black wire for the solenoid valve.

With the with the ignition on, look for 12 volts on the red wire on the solenoid connector. No 12 volts and you have wiring problems.

With the engine running, stick a safety pin in the LT Green/Black wire for the solenoid valve & ground it. That should turn the solenoid on and cause air to flow out the port that goes to the pipe connected to the cats. If it doesn't, the valve is bad. If it does cause the airflow to switch, the computer or wiring going to the computer is not signaling the solenoid valve to open.

Putting the computer into self test mode will cause the solenoid valve to toggle. If you listen carefully, you may hear it change states.

Code 82 – Secondary Air Injection Diverter Solenoid failure AM1. Possible bad wiring, bad connections, missing or defective solenoid valve. Check the solenoid valve for +12 volts at the Red wire and look for the Red/White wire to switch from +12 volts to 1 volt or less. The computer controls the valve by providing a ground path on the Red/White wire for the solenoid valve

With the engine running, stick a safety pin in the Red/White wire for the solenoid valve & ground it. That should turn the solenoid on and cause air to flow out the port that goes to the pipe connected to the heads. If it doesn't, the valve is bad. If it does cause the airflow to switch, the computer or wiring going to the computer is not signaling the solenoid valve to open.

Code 84 EGR Vacuum Regulator failure – Broken vacuum lines, no +12 volts, regulator coil open circuit. The EVR regulates vacuum to the EGR valve to maintain the correct amount of vacuum. The solenoid coil should measure 20-70 Ohms resistance. The regulator has a vacuum feed on the bottom which draws from the intake manifold. The other vacuum line is regulated vacuum going to the EGR valve. One side of the EVR electrical circuit is +12 volts anytime the ignition switch is in the run position. The other side of the electrical circuit is the ground path and is controlled by the computer. The computer switches the ground on and off to control the regulator solenoid.

Code 85 - CANP solenoid - The Carbon Canister solenoid is inoperative. Check vacuum lines for leaks and cracks. Check electrical wiring for loose connections, damaged wiring and insulation. Check solenoid valve operation by grounding the gray/yellow wire to the solenoid and blowing through it.
The computer provides the ground for the solenoid. The red wire to the solenoid is always energized any time the ignition switch is in the run position.

The 8x codes can be eliminated by using an 80-82 ohm 2 wtat resistor wired in place of each missing piece of the smog equipment.

 

[1990Coupe]

jrichker thanks a bunch! ill pull off the EGR and clean it up real good - ill also set the TPS the right way once i get my hands on a Voltmeter

 

[Boss 351]

Is it me or is the fuel pressure a tad too low? Someone else should chime in but I think it should be up to 39 vac off

 

[1990Coupe]

Is it me or is the fuel pressure a tad too low? Someone else should chime in but I think it should be up to 39 vac off

thats why i thought i'd throw it up there... although i get HORRIBLE gas mileage - like 14mpg??

 

[wht93gtEd]

jrichker thanks a bunch! ill pull off the EGR and clean it up real good - ill also set the TPS the right way once i get my hands on a Voltmeter

dude...looks like we got LOTS-O-THINGS to check this week...

that list is awesome!!!