Suspension upgrade...which brand?

[joeymustang]

I just got my 05 V6 and one of the first upgrade i wana get is suspension...I've heard some stuff about the eibach springs but i dont understand, is it the aftermarket ones or original ones? what have you guys done to your cars suspension? I dont want anything too rough or lowered since this is my daily driver just something to make it look and handle better

 

[Jenns01TA]

Eibach is aftermarket. The least amount of lowering that you can get with the Eibach springs will be 1.3 drop in the front and 1.4 inch drop in the rear which sounds a little too aggressive for what you desire.

So, based on your desired results I would look at the set-up that our member shooterm1 has and emulate that set-up. Most of his parts can be obtained from our site sponsors.

Newtakeoff.com has great prices on original equipment "take-offs". Please review their site for additional information.

http://www.newtakeoff.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=139

GT take-off rear swaybar http://www.newtakeoff.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=7833

Roush Racing (or Steeda rear spring set) both these will still drop the suspension anywhere from 1" to 1 1/4") - We'll need to ask shooterm about this one as he indicates a 3/4 drop and I think these are technically "GT" spec springs.

LMPerformance has the best price on the Tokico HP Shocks

http://www.lmperformance.com/18761/87.html
http://www.lmperformance.com/18760/87.html

We'll see what other comments we get, but that is what I would recommend based on your comments.

~J~

 

[joeymustang]

thanks for the info Jenns....do you believe that the GT springs will lower my ride?

 

[Jenns01TA]

I don't think the GT takeoffs will; however, I am unsure if the progressive spring rate will make that much of a difference over the OEM V-6 springs.

I PMd shooterm, but he has not responded, so let me do a little research. I am really sorry BTW to hear about the bumper-stumper.

Okay I found the spec doc. Funny thing it says the spec shock absorber for the 2005 are Tokico: It appears at least based on 2006 specs there is no height difference between models - coil rate is better for GT.

So - GT take off spring should work fine. Next element would ensure that spring perch designs are compatable from V-6 to V-8.

Here are the specs for ya:

Type Front: Twin tube gas-pressurized strut. Rear: Twin tube gas-pressurized shock.
Make Tokico
Piston Diameter mm (in)
Front 35 (1.38)
Rear 32 (1.26)
Rod Diameter mm (in)
Front 22 (.87)
Rear 12. (.49)

Suspension-Front:
Coil:design
206 (8.11) Height
145 (5.71) ID
Spring rate N/mm (lb./in.) GT Coupe: 23.9 N/mm (136.5 lb/in). All others: 20.0 N/mm (114.2 lb/in).
Rate at wheel N/mm (lb./in.) GT Coupe: 29.9 N/mm (170.7 lb/in). All others: 26.0 N/mm (148.5 lb/in).

Suspension-Rear:
Coil:design
256 (10.1) Height
62 (2.44) ID
Spring rate N/mm (lb./in.) Convertible: 21.5 N/mm (122.8 lb/in). Coupe: 24.9 N/mm (142.2 lb/in)
Rate at wheel N/mm (lb./in.)Convertible: 25.5 N/mm (145.6 lb/in). Coupe: 29.9 N/mm (170.7 lb/in)

 

[shooterm1]

The factory GT springs are the same as the V6 springs as far as height- no diff there ....

the Roush progressive rate rear springs is much softer than the factory springs and "squats" under load, that's their one big advantage.

That, and the 3/4" drop,,,

and for the record; I kept the stock/factory front springs. They are good enough for me.

Also as Jenn guessed, mine is the Roush GT Spring and not the Roush Racing spring that I had stated here elsewhere.



The Tokicos are new and still have less than 300 miles on them, so I will withhold judgment there for now.

But I will say that the improved ride is not a huge difference over the stock shocks.

It was just time to change them out.



.

 

[joeymustang]

ok thanks for the advice! how much did the roush cost?

 

[shooterm1]

ok thanks for the advice! how much did the roush cost?

about $120.00 if I remember correctly {IIRC}

 

[Jenns01TA]

Thanks for popping in Shooterm. 'preciate that. You da man!

 

[joeymustang]

so you only change the rear ones to level the car. do you have any pics of the car? guess im going in that direction...

BTW...horrible wheel hop in my car....did my first stomp from 0 and the car just shakes like its FWD lol

 

[martimus]

I took a somewhat different path for suspension:

1. Eibach Pro-kit springs
2. FRPP Shocks
3. GT Take-off front and rear sway bars
4. BMR Strut Tower brace

I've had zero issues with the Eibach's in the year and a half that they've been installed. The ride is vastly improved over stock; the car turns and handles much, much better than stock. Oh and the best part of all the cost was quite reasonable!

 

[Ken04]

I just got my 05 V6 and one of the first upgrade i wana get is suspension...I've heard some stuff about the eibach springs but i dont understand, is it the aftermarket ones or original ones? what have you guys done to your cars suspension? I dont want anything too rough or lowered since this is my daily driver just something to make it look and handle better

2 suggestions that I learned the hard way;

1, go with a brand name spring. There are many companies on line selling what they say is a quality part. They're even saying their parts are made at the same factory as the name brands. Don't believe it, buy from Eibach, Roush, etc.

2, be mindful of going too low in the rear as it will affect your track bar. Alot of experts will tell you that an adjustable track bar is required with any springs that lower the car more than about an inch. Just something to be aware of.

 

[Frank S]

To quote myself from previous posts:

I have done competitive driving in a number of underdog cars, and my latest adventure will support the heavy/flexy handicap of a convertible of the 2006 S197 variety. Add an automatic transmission and you have a serious challenge.

This one has been a delight, so far. It felt good with no rear sway and a slim front one and 17x8 GT takeoff wheels and Pirelli PZero Nero tires. Rolled a bit, but moved around pretty good and had a decent turn-in.

First changes, a BMR strut tower brace and a GT takeoff rear sway (19mm): flattened things out, improved balance, but still roll-y.

Next, swapped-in the GT front bar: transformed the driving sensations, flattened it pretty good, still a bit too much understeer.

Then, a 7/8-inch ADDCO rear bar (22mm): quite a bit of improvement, flatter yet, but...

Next, Steeda Sport springs, chosen because I wanted a bit lower profile but not too much. These dropped the front just under one inch, the rear an inch and a couple tenths. Should have done this first: another transformation. Very good handling, pretty good turn-in, no surprises in autocross turns, but still a little understeer-y. No discernable degradation of ride quality, at least to my seat-of-the-pants sensor.

Finally, changed to a one-inch (26mm) rear sway bar from H&R. This is a marvelous piece of work, sturdy aluminum body links, special bushings, very nice finish on the bar itself, and It Works: car balance is neutral, and it will understeer or oversteer at your bidding and in the degree you request. Plenty of confident car control, a real joy to drive, on and off the autocross track.



I was content to continue the occasional autocross in this configuration, and reckoned that over the next few years, as standard tires and shocks/struts require replacement I'll go to Bridgestone RE01 tires and Tokico adjustables to maintain the dual-purpose nature of the car: delightful and beautiful cruiser and a competent, satisfying autocrosser.

Then I got an offer on the Tokico D-Spec shocks and struts. Their performance on the street was a revelation: seems to me the originals (at 18,000 miles) were pretty much ineffective in street use. The new ones, set at manufacturer-recommended "five turns out from full hard" ironed out many of the previously irritating lumps and bumps in my usual routes. Very much an enhanced driving experience, but expensive for street-only use. New non-adjustables would probably do the same thing at half the cost, but ...

Then there was autocross day at Qualcomm Stadium. Two base-line runs showed all the same performance characteristics set out in the "Finally ... " paragraph, above, were still present: neutral steer that will go to over- or under-steer at your command, flat cornering, good sensations of car control.

Then I followed the Tokico manual's suggestion to reduce oversteer: dialed the rear shocks out to "full soft" (seven and a half turns from "full hard"). Result: understeer in places it was neutral previously. Could still provoke oversteer, but not as easily.

Next, dialed the rear shocks to three turns out from "full hard", which is two turns firmer than "normal". According to Tokico, this should result in more oversteer, and it did: same kind of change as the step before, but in the opposite direction. Oversteer in previously neutral conditions, understeer available, but not without some effort.

So, I reckon it is sorted for the present tires, and I'm confident there are adjustments to compensate for any changes I might try in the next few years.

I'm looking at six-point rollover bars for possible future track days. Who knows where it will all end up? There've been weirder vehicles* on real racetracks.

*http://home.san.rr.com/fsheff/wagon.htm

I have a Steeda adjustable front sway bar on the garage workbench, awaiting installation after this little firestorm ends and the air contains oxygen again. The bar is reputed to increase front roll stiffness by 10% in the shortest hole. Kit includes special urethane frame bushings with internal lubricant passages and brackets with grease fittings.

 

[joeymustang]

2 suggestions that I learned the hard way;

1, go with a brand name spring. There are many companies on line selling what they say is a quality part. They're even saying their parts are made at the same factory as the name brands. Don't believe it, buy from Eibach, Roush, etc.

2, be mindful of going too low in the rear as it will affect your track bar. Alot of experts will tell you that an adjustable track bar is required with any springs that lower the car more than about an inch. Just something to be aware of.

track bar? what will happen?

I was thinking of the eiback pro-kit,

http://www.americanmuscle.com/eibach-pro-springs-2005.html

they lower 1.3 front, 1.4 back....have any of you guys used this kit?

 

[shooterm1]

track bar? what will happen?

I was thinking of the eiback pro-kit,

they lower 1.3 front, 1.4 back....have any of you guys used this kit?

what I think he is saying is that the more you lower it the more money you'll be spending.

Lowering more than 3/4" to 1" will require an adjustable Panhard linkage.

(just another reason that I passed on the eibachs)

 

[Ken04]

what I think he is saying is that the more you lower it the more money you'll be spending.

Lowering more than 3/4" to 1" will require an adjustable Panhard linkage.

(just another reason that I passed on the eibachs)

exactly, lowering the car kicks the rear end over to the driver's side. A moderate amount is OK, too much and you need an adjustable track bar.

And lowering it too much takes away alot of the suspensions travel since the rubber bump stop/snubbers will stop spring compression.

 

[hutcccch]

How do you adjust the panhard linkage?

 

[afixer]

on the movie i just finished we installed the progress group set up on all the 05-6 mustangs we had (6) they worked great adjustable front and rear and the rear uses d-specks for the shocks. im actually doing a compleat install of all the stuff next week

 

[joeymustang]

on the movie i just finished we installed the progress group set up on all the 05-6 mustangs we had (6) they worked great adjustable front and rear and the rear uses d-specks for the shocks. im actually doing a compleat install of all the stuff next week

wheres the movie?