SVE Heads

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Huh never even noticed it. All I could think of is that they weren't great heads. Yeah cheap cost wise for a set of aluminum heads but that usually also goes hand in hand with functionality. They probably weren’t moving and cost to make these and no great sales means they pulled the plug. They will probably redesign and come back with something else. I know that brew2l on YouTube installed some recently on his cobra clone he did. He is usually honest in his opinions of items, but he is also now sponsored by LMR. That’s just my opinion don’t know. I run trick flows 11r190s and wouldn’t buy anything else brand wise.
 
made with the best Chieesium. Price out the cost of good valvetrain parts and you will see why AFR and TFS cost more, and even those head out of the box often need a going through
 
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Im looking at Blueprint heads now $1010 for a set. #9001 good reviews on Summit . They have a better base,. with even more Chieesium.

Pete, how about a set of these?


Assembled pairs went on sale a few weeks ago for <$900 on their site and they have decent reviews on Summit's site as well. Disclaimer: I have no idea how good or bad they are, just stumbled across them a few weeks ago.....
 
There is zero chance i'd be buying a budget off brand head and not taking it to the machine shop to be valve jobbed.
They could very well be good (although promaxx I believe is formerly patriot heads), but can you really risk running them without having them checked first?
A hci swap is a lot of work and money, I just can't see trying to save $200-$250 as an experiment with all that work.
 
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There is zero chance i'd be buying a budget off brand head and not taking it to the machine shop to be valve jobbed.
They could very well be good (although promaxx I believe is formerly patriot heads), but can you really risk running them without having them checked first?
A hci swap is a lot of work and money, I just can't see trying to save $200-$250 as an experiment with all that work.

You always seem to have the money to do it right the 2nd time around. Certain things you can cheap out on and certain things are worth paying for more. Heads are THE most important engine part as you build the engine around them. If you want a "budget build" get some $100 Explorer heads and spend $400 on them to have them magnafluxed, decked, valve job, new seals and springs to match the cam. You will get 260-280 rwhp with a good cam, intake, etc and can easily sell them when you save up money for a good set of heads, OR, just wait until you save money to do it right. Just my 2 cents
 
My Trick Flows needed work straight out of the box too, they had to have the valves lapped as they failed a leak test. If a set of heads required much more than that I'd return them. But if the ProMaxx heads only require the same valve lapping as Trick Flows, and they spec as they advertise, I wouldn't hesitate spending <$900 for a set of them vs >$1k on another set of Trick Flows if all of that holds true. With that in mind, I'm going to keep my eye on them so when I'm actually ready to buy a set of heads they're on my radar. Hopefully I can catch them on sale again and we'll have a better idea of what they are and what they have to offer.
 
Many aftermarket heads have 2.02 valves. Shrouding issues aside, it's the builder's responsibility to check for problems such as piston to valve clearance. They may or may not work, it all depends on a number of variables.
 
This is what I am thinking. I want to buy a set of either cheapo heads that have the same configuration as stock, and use rockers, valve covers . Get new pushrods and AFR bolts. No cam because I dont want to dig that deep. I have four inch Power pipe 80 mm Accufab throttlebody, Pro M meter, 19 lbs inj. Bassant X , Shorty headers. So Im set up for heads. My skills are average , so I really dont want to take the motor down to the bones. I dont drive that fast. looking for reliability. My E-7 heads are suffocating me causing jumpiness . Also I am very aware of the negatives , but I am the sole bread winner in my house.. Will it go much better / faster.
 
Those heads have a 2.02 intake valve. I have been told by afr tech support that their 2.02 intake heads will not work with the stock pistons.
In general they are correct that most inline heads with 2.02 intake valves won't clear vs. TW heads with 2.02 valves that generally will clear.However, depends on the cam duration, head gasket thickness, block deck height, and about 10 other variables. You can also notch the stock pistons which is why you check PTV clearance.
 
This is what I am thinking. I want to buy a set of either cheapo heads that have the same configuration as stock, and use rockers, valve covers . Get new pushrods and AFR bolts. No cam because I dont want to dig that deep. I have four inch Power pipe 80 mm Accufab throttlebody, Pro M meter, 19 lbs inj. Bassant X , Shorty headers. So Im set up for heads. My skills are average , so I really dont want to take the motor down to the bones. I dont drive that fast. looking for reliability. My E-7 heads are suffocating me causing jumpiness . Also I am very aware of the negatives , but I am the sole bread winner in my house.. Will it go much better / faster.

If I were you, I'd buy a used S trim for $1300 to $1500 and get the same if not better HP pickup with a much easier install. You can keep everything else stock except for the fuel pump and pick up 75hp. 5 to 7 pounds of boost and when your foot is not in the boost it drives like stock and much more reliable
 
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This is what I am thinking. I want to buy a set of either cheapo heads that have the same configuration as stock, and use rockers, valve covers . Get new pushrods and AFR bolts. No cam because I dont want to dig that deep. I have four inch Power pipe 80 mm Accufab throttlebody, Pro M meter, 19 lbs inj. Bassant X , Shorty headers. So Im set up for heads. My skills are average , so I really dont want to take the motor down to the bones. I dont drive that fast. looking for reliability. My E-7 heads are suffocating me causing jumpiness . Also I am very aware of the negatives , but I am the sole bread winner in my house.. Will it go much better / faster.
For me it's simple when it comes to things that are a lot of work, I'm all in or all out.
It's called a Heads Cam Intake setup for a reason, they work together. Take one piece of the puzzle out and you take a disproportionately large part of the gains from the potential.
Whatever problem you have with jumpiness (whatever the hell that means, lol), it's not the fault of the E7's.

I realize not everyone is made of money and there are budgets to adhere to, but for me, i choose to pile up parts over long periods of time then install when i have everything. The need for immediate gratification leads to poor parts choices.

I like the used vortech idea at low boost, the problem is nobody follows that advice, soon 6 is 8, 8 is 10, 10 is 12, then your car is spilling oil from every oriface and you are dealing with blown head gaskets. High mileage factory original engine gaskets in general will only put up with so much abuse.
 
This is what I am thinking. I want to buy a set of either cheapo heads that have the same configuration as stock, and use rockers, valve covers . Get new pushrods and AFR bolts. No cam because I dont want to dig that deep. I have four inch Power pipe 80 mm Accufab throttlebody, Pro M meter, 19 lbs inj. Bassant X , Shorty headers. So Im set up for heads. My skills are average , so I really dont want to take the motor down to the bones. I dont drive that fast. looking for reliability. My E-7 heads are suffocating me causing jumpiness . Also I am very aware of the negatives , but I am the sole bread winner in my house.. Will it go much better / faster.

If I understand everything correctly, my suggestion would be a set of Explorer GT40 heads. They'd allow you to use stock rocker arms without a problem, you'd definitely need new valve springs though. I'd also suggest going ahead and swapping for a mild, off the shelf cam while you're at it. It's really not much more work than swapping heads once you're in that far. And, considering the money you'll probably save from going this route vs buying a set of aftermarket aluminum heads, you could probably get your hands on an Explorer GT40 intake manifold to complete the package as well. Performance will be improved and most everything will remain stock Ford parts, so you shouldn't have a problem with reliability. And, as an added bonus (if you don't mind taking the time to shop around), you can buy all of this a little at a time vs one big purchase all at once, saving your bank account and the hit it would take.

For example, I picked up an Explorer GT40 intake off Craigslist for $100. I'm no where near ready to tear into the engine in my 87, so it's just sitting in my carport waiting. It's been a while since I shopped for GT40 heads, but the last I remember seeing a set they were asking like $250. Add in the price of new valve springs and most likely a valve job (if you can't get away from lapping them at home....) and we'll go with a rough estimate of $600. Now an off the shelf cam - again, I haven't shopped for one in quite a long time, but I was able to pick up a Ford B cam off Craigslist for $40 - a new one (not the B cam....) would probably be in the $150 range? Sounds like you're looking to reuse your rocker arms, so no cost there really. I'd suggest a new timing chain while swapping the cam, I'm going to guess about $50 now? Seems a little excessive, but I dunno what they're going for right now. So for the price of a new set of aftermarket heads you could really give the 5.0 you have now a whole new attitude that you'd probably be happy with, and it wouldn't cost you a bunch of money all at once.