Sway bar sizes
- Thread starter mitchcj1
- Start date
jikelly
20+ Year Stangneter 
There was a really good article about sway bar selection in mustangs and fords back in the 90s. let me see if I can find it. I'll check in tomorrow after I get off work.
jikelly
20+ Year Stangneter
jikelly
20+ Year Stangneter
Well the article turned out to be to large an image to post so if you will PM me your email adress I'll send you the file after I get out of school tonight. Should be about 9:30.
chepsk8
Founding Member
The typical front bars Ford used were usually 15/16", 1", or 1 1/8" depending on body style & motor. On most small block cars, the 1" is more than adequate. Include urethane or hard rubber bushings on the end links, gas shocks, and add the one-piece shock tower brace to make the sway bar really work. If you don't complete the package, all it will do is twist your car.
Out back, 5/8" seems to be standard fare, the BOSS 302 bar is a nice choice, as it is hidden and out of the way. On the classic Mustangs, a rear bar is not as critical, spend the money back there on good springs & shocks.
Out back, 5/8" seems to be standard fare, the BOSS 302 bar is a nice choice, as it is hidden and out of the way. On the classic Mustangs, a rear bar is not as critical, spend the money back there on good springs & shocks.
chepsk8
Founding Member
Export brace.
One-piece, ties the shock towers to the firewall. If you are after serious cornering, add trhe "Monte-Carlo" bar, which ties the shock towers to each other crossing over the motor. The combination of these two bars triangulates and stiffens the entire front of the chassis, allowing the suspension to fully work. Check ythe pictures of any Shelby Race car or Rallye Falcon. It's there.
One-piece, ties the shock towers to the firewall. If you are after serious cornering, add trhe "Monte-Carlo" bar, which ties the shock towers to each other crossing over the motor. The combination of these two bars triangulates and stiffens the entire front of the chassis, allowing the suspension to fully work. Check ythe pictures of any Shelby Race car or Rallye Falcon. It's there.
chepsk8
Founding Member
Yuppers! All of my Mustangs got one!
now, the CJ in your name, is your 70 a CJ? If so, check your shock towers carefully. They crack & flex, and need to be strong if you are packing a big motor.
now, the CJ in your name, is your 70 a CJ? If so, check your shock towers carefully. They crack & flex, and need to be strong if you are packing a big motor.
jikelly
20+ Year Stangneter
The rear sway bar does improve the ride of the car or at least it did on my stang. It feels really good in corners, but the ride is a bit harsh. Most of that is due to the stiff springs I installed though.
I wish my parents were cool enough to name me cobra jet. But no, just chris. Its an F code but I was going to buy a 351C for it. The shock towers are new from NPD so they better not have any cracks.
EDIT: I was looking at the global west site and they said you dont need a rear sway bar with their leaf springs and some kind of bushing they offer? Any thoughts?
EDIT: I was looking at the global west site and they said you dont need a rear sway bar with their leaf springs and some kind of bushing they offer? Any thoughts?
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chepsk8
Founding Member
The only factory classic Mustangs to have a rear sway bar were the 1970 BOSS 302 & 429's. No Shelby's ever did.
In our Mustangs, the front suspension does the majority of the work, that's why there is so much to be done there. Out back, just making sure the geometry is right, the car hooks good, and has enough compliance to work with the front, not fight it will be good.
Out back, I suggest the "Mid-Eye" leaf springs with hard bushings, GOOD gas shocks, 15" rims with smaller sidewall High-Performance tires (on all corners), and most importantly, make sure your chassis is solid and stable. If you have a "flexible Flyer", any parts you put on will be negated by the soft chassis. On every race-car, they have full cages which tie together the chassis to provide a stiff plattform to allow the suspension to work.
Best traction bars I've found are the weld-in underrides. They work so good, it's very hard to spin the tires, unless you have rock-hard bias plys, which only work for concours car show points anyway.
In our Mustangs, the front suspension does the majority of the work, that's why there is so much to be done there. Out back, just making sure the geometry is right, the car hooks good, and has enough compliance to work with the front, not fight it will be good.
Out back, I suggest the "Mid-Eye" leaf springs with hard bushings, GOOD gas shocks, 15" rims with smaller sidewall High-Performance tires (on all corners), and most importantly, make sure your chassis is solid and stable. If you have a "flexible Flyer", any parts you put on will be negated by the soft chassis. On every race-car, they have full cages which tie together the chassis to provide a stiff plattform to allow the suspension to work.
Best traction bars I've found are the weld-in underrides. They work so good, it's very hard to spin the tires, unless you have rock-hard bias plys, which only work for concours car show points anyway.
chepsk8
Founding Member
I got them 20 years ago, can't quite remember who made them, somethinf similar to "Traction Masters", or similar. Check Tony Branda's site, he may have them.
