Drivetrain T-5 To Auto Swap

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Yeah but if you do this build a manual valve body one. This eliminates the "TV" cable and allows you to build a transmission that shifts so hard it would make your 5 Speed jealous.
Well, he hasn't even stated which trans he wants to go with. So he could be contemplating one that is vacuum modulated and doesn't have a throttle pressure set up. For example, he could be wanting to swap in a C4.

What trans are you wanting to go with, OP?



Things I can think of off the top of my head that you'll need
1) driveshaft - depending on length of trans, you'll need it either lengthened, cut or use it how it is. (FYI, C4's are close to the length of the T5 so you can use factory length drive shaft IIRC)
2) Flexplate - this is simple. Just make sure it's the right amount of teeth and proper weight
3) starter - this may not be needed, but if I remember right, there's an automatic starter and a manual starter. Please someone correct me if I'm wrong, I don't want to give out wrong information.
4) Vacuum line/TV cable set up - you'll need to run a vacuum line down to the transmission if the trans has a vacuum modulator (unless you have a different style valve body ex: trans brake valve body) or you'll need to set up a TV cable (unless you have a different style valve body)
5) Torque converter nuts - Ford used the same thread pattern from the 60's all the way up into the 2000's and I doubt that'll ever change. Get 'em off of any year Ford vehicle and they should work.
5) Trans cooler and lines - you're either gonna have to buy a new radiator for an auto car (if you still have factory 5 speed rad.) because they have a built in cooler, or you can mount an external cooler. A bad as* cooler I like to put on customers vehicles is the Ford trans cooler that was with the 4R100 behind the 6.0. It's an absolute monster of a cooler.
You CAN run soft lines the full way from the trans to the cooler, but I prefer hard lines. Also, it HAS to be either power steering soft line or trans cooler specific lines. Trans fluid will eat through a regular rubber hose if it hasn't been chemically treated. You can go to a parts store and get hard line and just bend it how you want it, that's how I would do it.
 
Oh and a buddy of mine had a C4 in his '93 notch. His car had the factory cross member still. So on the crossmember, I don't think you'll have to mess with it and if you do have to, you won't need to alter it too much.
 
With your Mods i doubt you want to go anywhere near a stock trans. Building an AOD will retain OD. Very useful if you want to turn lower rpms on the highway. You can retain a stock driveshaft if you use an AOD transmission from a mustang. Some other cars like Lincolns have a longer tail shaft. Also some Mercurys and lincolns have longer shifter levers. You want the right length shifter lever (on the transmission) or you will never get your floor shifter to work properly. Being half in gear is very bad.

If you're going this far into a swap then do do a manual valve body. You can buy one starting at around $250 these days. Unless you don't want to shift your transmission.
 
I don't know what trans I want. I am just sick of breaking third gear. This g force trans was supposed to be stronger.. Waste of 2k on that I guess.. I want something that won't be too damn expensive. Wasn't sure if the aod trans was any good or if a c-4 would be a better choice. I don't drive the car other than on nice days and to the track 2 -3 times a year. Is a stock aod with a manual valvebody gonna be strong enough? If not what is the weak link.. I don't really know much about auto transmissions. My uncle worked at a transmission shop for 20 years so I'm sure he could help me with a rebuild if needed.
 
I don't know what trans I want. I am just sick of breaking third gear. This g force trans was supposed to be stronger.. Waste of 2k on that I guess.. I want something that won't be too damn expensive. Wasn't sure if the aod trans was any good or if a c-4 would be a better choice. I don't drive the car other than on nice days and to the track 2 -3 times a year. Is a stock aod with a manual valvebody gonna be strong enough? If not what is the weak link.. I don't really know much about auto transmissions. My uncle worked at a transmission shop for 20 years so I'm sure he could help me with a rebuild if needed.
What mods have you done to your car?
That'll help dictate if an AOD will be strong enough. But, you can build an AOD really well. I personally like the AOD and so does 95Vert. They're not a bad transmission when built. Hell just a regular shift kit makes 'em fun. Had a buddy with an '88 and my dad built the trans, put a shift kit in it, and did some tricks he knew. Had firm shifts all the way into over drive and that thing would bark the tires going into 2nd. And it had a stock motor.
 
Around 300rwhp.. When you say built, what do you upgrade in an aod?... Some people I talk to say do a 4r trans, but it looks like its more swapping this that and the other thing to get it to work. I want something that is going to be the easiest way with good results. Since the aod came in the car from the factory, it will be most likely the easiest swap for my car.
 
Well an AODE or 4R70W swap would be simple. It's just an updated version of the AOD. You could get a manual valve body AODE and have added strength already in the transmission. Or a 4R70W which is even stronger than the AODE, and they have a wider ratio gear set, so you'd have a lower first, higher OD, and lower reverse.

All 3 are good options and will fit easily into your car.
 
What is it that T5 's do best? Break when your wallet is empty...
A T5 is still a T5 even when you put expensive fancy gears in it. It will still break if you drive it hard enough.

Get a Tremec TKO 500 or TKO 600 and you won't break transmissions anymore. The exception to this is to do silly things like full throttle shifting without a clutch or running the transmission without enough of the proper lubricant. TKO 500's and TKO 600 's weigh 25 lbs more that a T5, and it is due to a heavier case and wider gears.
 
I have 600hp running through my AOD, and its best trans I have ever had. I went from T5 to AOD. The drive shaft and cross member can be used from the T5. Biggest pain was the trans tunnel. The T5s are different, and took some fab work to get my AOD shifter in. The other big change is the pedals.
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Well an AODE or 4R70W swap would be simple. It's just an updated version of the AOD. You could get a manual valve body AODE and have added strength already in the transmission. Or a 4R70W which is even stronger than the AODE, and they have a wider ratio gear set, so you'd have a lower first, higher OD, and lower reverse.

All 3 are good options and will fit easily into your car.
from what I was reading the 4r has a bigger output shaft, so I would need to change the yolk for the driveshaft to fit. Also I think it must be a trans from a 3.8 l because it has the same bolt pattern as a 302 on the bell housing .
 
What is it that T5 's do best? Break when your wallet is empty...
A T5 is still a T5 even when you put expensive fancy gears in it. It will still break if you drive it hard enough.

Get a Tremec TKO 500 or TKO 600 and you won't break transmissions anymore. The exception to this is to do silly things like full throttle shifting without a clutch or running the transmission without enough of the proper lubricant. TKO 500's and TKO 600 's weigh 25 lbs more that a T5, and it is due to a heavier case and wider gears.
anything will break if you drive it hard enough... My fluid was not low and I do not flat shift.
 
I have 600hp running through my AOD, and its best trans I have ever had. I went from T5 to AOD. The drive shaft and cross member can be used from the T5. Biggest pain was the trans tunnel. The T5s are different, and took some fab work to get my AOD shifter in. The other big change is the pedals.
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what kind of mods are done to the aod to be able to handle that much power. The tunnel was different or the hole for shifter is different? I can prob keep my pedals and just figure a way to just get rid of the clutch pedal. Did you use the stock shifter? I heard about the way you have to shift to hold 2nd gear, if an aftermarket shifter is used does this get rid of the 1st,drive1st shift .
 
from what I was reading the 4r has a bigger output shaft, so I would need to change the yolk for the driveshaft to fit. Also I think it must be a trans from a 3.8 l because it has the same bolt pattern as a 302 on the bell housing .
IIRC, the AODE was made from '92-'95. It was used in the cars, like Mustangs and Crown vics (you can't get a Vic trans cuz different bolt pattern)

The 4R70W was introduced in '93 for the trucks since they would benefit a lot from the wider ratio gearing and added strength. Then in '96 they put it in the Mustang since it got the 4.6, but that doesn't matter to you since the 4.6 has a different bellhousing pattern.

So, a truck transmission from '93-'96 would work. And yes you'd have to get a different yoke on the drive shaft. No big deal. Find a '96 and later Mustang drive shaft and have it cut down.


EDIT: AODE wasn't used in the Mustang for '92 and '93. It was used in the '94's and '95's. But Crown Vics and other cars like that used it starting in '92. Just wanted to clarify on this subject since my initial wording of it sounded wrong.