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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

T-Lok shot already?

  • Thread starter Thread starter PULMEOVR
  • Start date Start date Sep 22, 2008

PULMEOVR

I need a bigger E-Penis.
Sep 29, 2003
560
0
27
Ottawa, Ontario Canada
Sep 22, 2008
#1
  • Sep 22, 2008
  • #1
Hi guys,

It seems my stock T-lok is already shot and needs a rebuild. It's been bad for the last 12,000 miles or so. I've got 39,000 miles on this stock T-Lok and it's totally shot. Is that about the norm before they let go? I'm only spinning one tire now, most of the time - even in a straight line. I've ran under 10 quarter mile runs on it. I rarely spin the tires as well. In quarter mile runs I keep getting 60fts of 2.3 - 2.4 due to the one tire peel. I can't run better than 14.7s. What gives?


Matt
 

40th GT

New Member
Apr 7, 2004
916
0
0
Lawrenceville, GA
Sep 22, 2008
#2
  • Sep 22, 2008
  • #2
A fluid change might fix it. Give that a try, since it's not too hard/expensive.
 

AdRock

Member
Nov 13, 2003
521
1
19
South Texas
Sep 22, 2008
#3
  • Sep 22, 2008
  • #3
I agree, try a fluid change first. However, don't put the friction modifier in it when you do the change. then see if it feels any different.
 

Venom_Nitrous

Founding Member
Aug 23, 2002
416
1
0
Spearfish, SD
Sep 22, 2008
#4
  • Sep 22, 2008
  • #4
Mine made it 8000 miles. Don't feel bad.
 

PULMEOVR

I need a bigger E-Penis.
Sep 29, 2003
560
0
27
Ottawa, Ontario Canada
Sep 23, 2008
#5
  • Sep 23, 2008
  • #5
I might just get it rebuilt. I don't know how to do that myself, so I would need the dealer to do it. At the price of replacing the fluid and HOPING it will fix the problem, I'll probably just get a whole rebuild instead. Anyone know about how much it costs?

And 8000 miles on the stock T-lok? Thats ridiculous.

EDIT: I guess I could do the fluid change myself, come Spring. Rebuild would have to be done by the dealer though.
 

98COBRA281

10 Year Member
Nov 24, 2007
1,348
30
59
Port St. Lucie, Florida
Sep 23, 2008
#6
  • Sep 23, 2008
  • #6
i have about 105k on my rear end and even if i make a right turn and floor it, it wont spin only one tire, i wonder if it has been rebuilt
 

bhuff30

Founding Member
Dec 11, 2001
6,037
35
129
Olathe KS
Sep 23, 2008
#7
  • Sep 23, 2008
  • #7
I have 144k and my traction lock still generally works. I hurt it a while back on a long one wheel peel, but it still frequently spins both in a streight line.

The trick to getting a good 60' time on a 1 legger is to not break! Launch soft and then once rolling, punch it. Or, if you have a clutch, launch very soft, then once moving a bit, engage it much more firmly. I got a 2.006 60' time on a 1 legger with bald factory 04GT goodyears, and I regularly got 2.1s (on the 4cyl though)
 

40th GT

New Member
Apr 7, 2004
916
0
0
Lawrenceville, GA
Sep 23, 2008
#8
  • Sep 23, 2008
  • #8
PULMEOVR said:
EDIT: I guess I could do the fluid change myself, come Spring. Rebuild would have to be done by the dealer though.
Click to expand...
There ya go. A fluid change is much cheaper than a rebuild.
 

BurningRubber

10 Year Member
Dec 6, 2004
1,865
24
58
Sep 23, 2008
#9
  • Sep 23, 2008
  • #9
Rebuild kit is only $45 or so.

Labor to rebuild it is what costs.


Running it without friction modifier to see if it still works is one thing. Running it without friction modifier to get it to work is another. Without the friction modifier it will just eat itself up.

Obviously its not working as it should.


Mine lasted untill I had my 4.10's put in around 110-115k miles.
 

Venom_Nitrous

Founding Member
Aug 23, 2002
416
1
0
Spearfish, SD
Sep 23, 2008
#10
  • Sep 23, 2008
  • #10
bhuff30 said:
I have 144k and my traction lock still generally works. I hurt it a while back on a long one wheel peel, but it still frequently spins both in a streight line.

The trick to getting a good 60' time on a 1 legger is to not break! Launch soft and then once rolling, punch it. Or, if you have a clutch, launch very soft, then once moving a bit, engage it much more firmly. I got a 2.006 60' time on a 1 legger with bald factory 04GT goodyears, and I regularly got 2.1s (on the 4cyl though)
Click to expand...
Exactly, if you baby it, it will last.
PULMEOVR said:
And 8000 miles on the stock T-lok? Thats ridiculous.
Click to expand...

I made close to 120 1/8 mile passes on the stock one. Cutting 1.51 - 1.61 60's
 

PULMEOVR

I need a bigger E-Penis.
Sep 29, 2003
560
0
27
Ottawa, Ontario Canada
Sep 23, 2008
#11
  • Sep 23, 2008
  • #11
Oh okay, 120 1/8 passes.

I'm always worried about dragging the car too much. I always feel as if in a year it will be all beat up and stuff. I've done about 10 1/8 mile runs with 60 fts between 2.1 - 2.4 (actually on the street, using a G Tech).

My t-lok is pretty bad though. Check out this video that I made. I took this about three months ago on my old stock Goodyears. Check out the dual wheel burnout, then the sudden one wheel peel ... even after shifting into second gear. I really need to get this looked into, but it will have to wait until the Spring when I take it out from storage. The winter beater is calling right now ($$$$).

YouTube - Mustang GT Burnout

Matt
 

Brute03

Member
Mar 20, 2006
232
0
16
Sep 24, 2008
#12
  • Sep 24, 2008
  • #12
changing the fluid and using just a little friction modifier bought me a few thousand miles before it started spinning one wheel every now and again.

I have a buddy with an 89 fox that will do right-handed donuts all day without missing a beat and he's never been in the rearend so i don't know.....
 

PULMEOVR

I need a bigger E-Penis.
Sep 29, 2003
560
0
27
Ottawa, Ontario Canada
Sep 24, 2008
#13
  • Sep 24, 2008
  • #13
I'm going to get it rebuilt. Not worth changing the fluid for (probably) a few thousand miles. How much is a rebuild, including the kit? Like $300?
 
B

BobHyatt

New Member
Aug 7, 2007
378
1
0
Sep 24, 2008
#14
  • Sep 24, 2008
  • #14
the ford T/L is weak. It uses two sets of clutches/disks, with pressure applied with an S-spring between the two packs. weak, weak, weak. To see how weak, jack up one rear wheel, put the transmission in neutral, and spin the raised wheel by hand. That is the effort needed to cause the clutch to slip. now, take that piece of junk out, and replace it with something serious like an Auburn Pro and try the same test. Takes some real muscle to spin that wheel and break the clutch grip. The stocker will work until you start on wider rear wheels or slicks. Then its days are numbered...
 
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