I have searched the forum and not found a "direct" answer to this question. I have a 66 coupe with a 65 289 in it. I have an 6 bolt lakewood scattershield installed (not a 5.0 shield) The question I have is that per the Lakewood website, this scattershield is .563" lower in height than a 5.0 scattershield. I take it that this is why you need a 1/2" adapter plate if you use an early bellhousing verses a 5.0 bellhousing or scattershield so that the input shaft length sits properly in the pilot bushing and the trans ears sit flush with either bellhousing or scattershield. The scattershield I have (per the website) states the bolt pattern will fit a toploader or a t10. Does anyone know if the T5 has the same bolt pattern as one of these? I understand that I will need a spacer plate but didn't know what to inquire about as all posts I have read talked about bellhousings and not scattershields not certain if bolt circle (or bolt "square") is same. Secondly, can I just use this 1/2" spacer and stock z-bar setup without having to put a spacer block under the clutch throwout bearing arm. I do not want to convert to a cable or hydraulic setup at this time, just want to keep stock setup for now. Anybody done this and know proper route to take with the questions I have asked? The one post that speaks about a scattershield refers to a trans other than a T5. Brian
T5 swap and lakewood scattershield question
- Thread starter pazcarguy
- Start date
BarnStang
Founding Member
The T5 and TKO are 5/8" longer on the input shaft. I just finished a TKO 600 in a 66 coupe. After much debate we decided to order the shortened input shaft for the trans from D & D and install it ourselves, and used the "standard" depth Lakewood (since we already had that on hand). You can use the input shaft it comes with and use a standard bell with a spacer plate, or skip the plate and get a Tremec bell that is 5/8" deeper. You can also call Lakewood tech and they can confuse you, I mean help you more!
I also fabricated some spacers to use the Z-bar adapter. If you have the older style block then you already have a place for the ball for the Z bar. You might need to lengthen the bottom adjuster to reach the clutch fork. (I did). I used the stock return spring too. Works great! Very smooth. Nice feel with a Centerforce dual friction.
If you are using a T5, then you will not have the clearance issues I did. You may get away with some hammering. Here is a link to explain the issues with drive line angle/motor-trans angle:
http://home.austin.rr.com/cobra2914/tremec.htm
Note: I had to cut the tunnel open like a can of tuna! But my friend reports ZERO vibrations up to 80mph. We also shimmed the rear to correct the angle on that too.
Hope that helps.
Also, remember NOT to put 90wt gear oil on the T5.It take auto trans fluid. We put GM Syncromesh in the TKO as recommended by Tremec and D & D. I don't think the T5 requires GM Syncromesh, but I think its ok to use it. You can also contact D & D for some tech info too.
http://www.dndmotorsports.com/
I also fabricated some spacers to use the Z-bar adapter. If you have the older style block then you already have a place for the ball for the Z bar. You might need to lengthen the bottom adjuster to reach the clutch fork. (I did). I used the stock return spring too. Works great! Very smooth. Nice feel with a Centerforce dual friction.
If you are using a T5, then you will not have the clearance issues I did. You may get away with some hammering. Here is a link to explain the issues with drive line angle/motor-trans angle:
http://home.austin.rr.com/cobra2914/tremec.htm
Note: I had to cut the tunnel open like a can of tuna! But my friend reports ZERO vibrations up to 80mph. We also shimmed the rear to correct the angle on that too.
Hope that helps.
Also, remember NOT to put 90wt gear oil on the T5.It take auto trans fluid. We put GM Syncromesh in the TKO as recommended by Tremec and D & D. I don't think the T5 requires GM Syncromesh, but I think its ok to use it. You can also contact D & D for some tech info too.
http://www.dndmotorsports.com/
BarnStang
Founding Member
I also forgot to ask if you are going to check the center on the bell with a dial indicator? We did this too and it took me awhil to figure out the process. Its not that bad, just time consuming.
