t5 swap parts

Foxfan88

My Grandpa has great wood.
Sep 13, 2004
2,487
4
0
Miami, Ok
I am going sunday to get my t5 swap parts.
can someone list EVERY PART I NEED please??
i mean every part, i dont want to miss anything...

also share your t5 swap stories, harder than you thought?, how much time should it take???
 
Trans
T-5 reverse light and NSS wiring. (take harness from trans all the way back to inside of car)
Crossmember (optional)
Exhaust Hanger
Bellhousing
flywheel
starter index plate
clutch disk
pressure plate
CLutch fork
throwout bearing
clutch cable
clutch pedals w/quadrant
shifter
inner shift boot
outer shifter boot
bolts for everything

Parts i would buy NEW
Pilot bearing
flywheel bolts
flywheel dowels
clutch pressure plate bolts

and personally i would resurface the flywheel and buy a new clutch.

If i am missing anything i am sure someone will add.
 
i dont want to sound stupid, but if we do the job good, will it drive and shift well?? Like will if feel like a factory 5 speed or will it feel hacked up and not right??
 
Euphoric306 said:
everything...

the one thing that you think, oh hell, that wont hurt anything... your engine will blow up because of it... and kill everyone
That's how I lost my dog....can't talk about it anymore..no questions please :(
Any how, regarding the swap...get all your components in place before you start...get all your bolts and required hardware together. Confirm you know where they belong, and your counts are good (and you have tooling to do the job)..there is nothing worse than having to put a job on hold because you can't find or don't have all the required hardware. Walk through the install before you do it...the job is pretty substantial and you need to have a plan going in. Good luck.
 
to add, in case anything was missed

-t5
-pedal assembly (with cruise switch and clutch neutral safety switch) any 85-93 pedal will work, four banger or not 84 should work as well.
-bell housing
-block plate
-flywheel
-clutch
-metric pressure plate bolts 86+ style (6) (torque to 22 foot pounds)
-two shorter bolts for the bell to engine (top two bolts) if you can't get those, use washers to take up the slack.
-FLywheel to crank bolts (80 pounds or so torque) are longer then your aod bolts, get the longer flywheel to crank bolts
-t5 trans x member (though an 86+ aod one should work without modifying)
-t5 exhaust hanger that goes above trans mount
-clutch cable
-clutch cable clip
-clutch fork
-t/o bearing (timken all steel autozone ones are great, same 4 pilot bear)
-pilot bearing
-new rear main seal (optional)
-shifter
-outer/inner shift boot
-Manual shifter bezel plate for center console
-t5 harness (four cylinder harness for four eyes "may" be different, but possibly not, let me know what you find out on that
-t5 driveshaft. (you can re use your aod shaft, but the yoke is different. It's a little longer due to a balancer. SHould still fit, (ours didn't though) to be safe, get just the t5 yoke and swap it onto your aod shaft
-clutch quadrant/firewall adjuster
-t5 transmission hump (optional, but not required. It has to be cut out and welded in)
-I also used two plugs from autozone to plug the aod trans cooler lines in the radiator. This was cosmetic, though and not required.
-Last, but not least, a change of underwear for your first drive
 
Foxfan88 said:
well what the things that i should MAKE SURE are done well??

Install the flywheel and clutch with NEW bolts and flywheel dowels.

Go to Ford and order the correct bolts. Will cost you $25 or so, but the alternative is having the flywheel come off at 4500RPM :D
 
Foxfan88 said:
ok people say the AOD is bad down low, it kills low end.
i dont really see how, i mean how does have a 5 speed make it better???

I think I am reading your loss of interest in the swap now...I forsee you soon posting the "how much can I get for my car" in talk again.
 
Foxfan88 said:
ok people say the AOD is bad down low, it kills low end.
i dont really see how, i mean how does have a 5 speed make it better???


It's called drivetrain loss, and the AOD has a WHOLE lot of it. Stock for stock, the t5 is MUCH more effiicient, and puts more power to the ground. The AOD saps power everywhere you look at it. You'll have minimum of a full 3/4 of a second gain over a stock aod from the swap, sometimes as high as a full second.

If you're having seconds thoughts, don't do it, maybe this hobby is not for you. No offense, IMO, Just jump into and do it. SOunds to me like you may be trying to rationalize a reason NOT to do it. If you want the most speed out of your car per doller spent, this is the way to go.
 
i dont have any second doubts about it, i am just wondering why hte AODs rob the 5.0 so bad...

I am really looking forward to it. I will keep the car, since i really wanted to sell it to get a better running 5 speed. But i figure hey its an old car it will have its problems.

I will swap to t5 and put my 3.90 rear in and i expect the car to be totally different.
 
with your tired out motor... it might not be as powerful as one would expect.. it will, however, get you into the low 15's, high 14's when you learn to drive stick

in a t5.. flywheel drives frictiony clutch disc, which drives gears, which drives wheels

in an auto... flywheel drives fins that slush fluid around that drive more fins that drive wheels

think of it this way... put water in a bucket with floating things (ice cubes, rubber duckies, i dont care) and swirl your hand around to make a "whirlpool." now, it would be a lot more efficient to just grab the floating things and move them around... thats basically the difference between the two trannies

thats why you can be sitting at a stoplight in drive with an AOD and not have the engine stall... dont try to do that in a stick

done right, you will be thoroughly impressed and fall in love with your car all over again... but take the advise given above and plan it out two or three times before you even pick up a wrench
 
DMAN302 said:
Don't go in expecting miracles..it may be better, but don't be disapointed if it's not all you are building it up to be in terms of your expectations.

come on man, you're being convservative :) If taking off nearly a second off his time slip doesn't put a big old grin on his face, time to hang up the hat!!

on the other hand, if you're not good at driving stick, it'll fusterate you for a while.
 
listen... do the swap.. you will NOT be dissappointed at all. the hardest part is the pedal install. wiring is easy. once the AOD was out, it took me less than an hour to button up the bottom of the car. i mean clutch, flywheel, tranny everything. my AOD driveshaft worked... but it has since been replaced by an aluminum one. also, one thing everyoen forgot about ( ithink!) the top two bellhousing bolts, need to be cut about an inch, for some reason the bellhousing botl bosses are shorter than the rest.
 
yeah it should be cool.
i dont know if my motor is as crappy as we all think, i mean the 5.0 is the TOUGH motor right?
COuld be a wiring problem??
when i got the car it had a MANAGMENT INJECTOR HARNESS, not diagnostic that means it has no oil press/water temp wires.
So we did some wiring and i have theose guages now.

But there are quite a few loose hanging connectors all over the car so maybe the slowness lies in the wiring.

ALso the guy put in an aftermarket distributor, its a different setup, since my old distributor plug and SPOUT are freely hangning near the the firewall, then the wires go across the bay to the coil.

When i rebuild i will swap back to the stock injector harness and then swap back distibutors or at least the stock wires...