T5 swapped 67 with clutch issues

thejoe

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Jul 7, 2020
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Moscow, ID
Recently obtained a 67 C code coupe that has been swapped to a 302 and a T5 from a 91 5.0 mustang. The previous owner used wilwood master and slaves (3/4" bore each) for the auto-to-manual swap.

It worked fine on the test drive and then I had a panic stop on the way home and got smoke out from under the hood (thinking brakes at this point, but can't r/o a clutch system leak). I'm getting inconsistent disengagement with the clutch all the way to the floor (sometimes grinds when going into gear, sometimes hard to put into first, sometimes requires pumping of the clutch but this is not consistent).

Also, the clutch sits 5" closer to the driver than the gas and brake.

Does any of this sound like familiar problems after a T5 swap?

This is my first post - I'm stoked to finally have my dream car.

Joe
 
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65ShelbyClone

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Sep 9, 2000
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There should be a bumper under the dash that keeps the clutch pedal from returning too high. I think it's adjustable. The rest sounds like air in the hydraulics.

Is there a reinforcement plate on the firewall for the clutch master cylinder? I've heard that the firewall can crack with hydro conversions because the firewall wasn't designed to bear that load.
 

thejoe

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Jul 7, 2020
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Moscow, ID
I'll check the firewall when I get under there. I am probably going to have to change out the master anyway, so I can bolt in a plate (or would you weld it?) at that time.

I'll check the bumper. I think it has to return all the way, otherwise the clutch fork rides the TO bearing too hard (I know there is supposed to be some preload on the T5 TO bearing, but I'm not sure how much is correct).

I certainly do need to rebleed the system. I am actually going to replace the slave with a new unit (as opposed to the rebuilt unit) tomorrow and will address this at that time.
 

65ShelbyClone

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Sep 9, 2000
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Antelope Valley, SoCal
I'd just bolt the plate on if you install one. No need to weld.

I'll check the bumper. I think it has to return all the way, otherwise the clutch fork rides the TO bearing too hard (I know there is supposed to be some preload on the T5 TO bearing, but I'm not sure how much is correct).

I would think the zero point gets set in the process of bleeding the system as long as you don't run out of travel. Then again perhaps the linkage or MC position needs to be adjusted. Honestly I don't have any experience with aftermarket hydro clutches.
 

thejoe

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Jul 7, 2020
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Moscow, ID
Swapped out the slave today and now there is a mild squeal when I come to a stop and the clutch is fully out. If I put any pressure on the clutch at all, the noise goes away (long before the clutch is disengaged). Any input?
 

thejoe

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Jul 7, 2020
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Moscow, ID
zookeeper - agreed. Do you think I should pre load a touch more? I have some preload on it for sure, and I'm thinking it may need a little more due to the way it feels when it engages.
 

zookeeper

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Aug 25, 2001
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Yes, there's a guy in the FOX forums that told me the throughout bearings are designed to have like 15 lbs pre-load, which seems like a lot. But once I did mine that way, it quit making noise and has survived more than 6 years.
 

thejoe

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Jul 7, 2020
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I've read 8 lbs, but TBH I have no idea how to measure that. I'll tighten it a bit and see how it goes. Thanks for the help.
 

zookeeper

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Yeah, I probably mis-remember the amount of preload. I remember it seemed like a lot but at the same time the clutch had never slipped under load and the throw out bearing is still alive. Now let’s see some pics!
 
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thejoe

Member
Jul 7, 2020
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Moscow, ID
Will the squeal from the TO bearing go away permanently when it's properly preloaded?

I've tightened the assembly a couple of times (didn't have it loaded enough at first) and after each additional preload addition the squeal goes away completely for a few days, then comes back. I hate that noise. It's so terrible.

The way I'm judging preload is essentially when I get the slave tight enough that with the clutch fully depressed the reverse gear stops turning (since it's the only constantly moving part of the trans, it should stop completely when the clutch is depressed, if it doesn't I'm not getting enough disengagement). Is this a good method or am I off track?