Tfs R Series Craigslist Find

[Reddevil91]

So I’ve had a discussion prior about porting my GT40 lower with Tmoss, as I am going with the 11R 190s. I saw this R series intake on Craig’s for a good deal, but I’m not sure if this is an older R series, but on LMR I’ve seen what looks like this intake but it’s showing up under the 351 vs what looks like their newer model that says for 302. Am I right on this or does this work fine on 302 blocks? Is this a good intake pick up VS porting my lower? Figured for the price I could pick this one up and sell my tubular GT40 and get my money back.

 

[Reddevil91]

This is what I was comparing to btw as the second pic with 351 looks like the one in the Craigslist pic.

 

[Hoytster]

The Trick Flow R series upper intake is the same between the 302 and the 351, only difference is in the lower between the two blocks. There are two versions of the R, a 75mm throttle body version and a 90mm throttle body version. The R intake is a "better" intake than the tubular GT40, as in it flows better. What's your RPM goals with your motor?

 

[Reddevil91]

The Trick Flow R series upper intake is the same between the 302 and the 351, only difference is in the lower between the two blocks. There are two versions of the R, a 75mm throttle body version and a 90mm throttle body version. The R intake is a "better" intake than the tubular GT40, as in it flows better. What's your RPM goals with your motor?

So basically the lower is just difference then. Ok I’ll have to ask the guy selling and see which he has in regards to the lower. He thinks he has a 65 TB so I’m guessing it’s the 75 mm version. I figured with what I have planned set up wise I could make good power up to 6k, just trying to debate if I should save the money on porting and flip my GT40 and get something better. Just bummed bc my intake turned out really nice powder coat wise.

 

[Hoytster]

So basically the lower is just difference then. Ok I’ll have to ask the guy selling and see which he has in regards to the lower. He thinks he has a 65 TB so I’m guessing it’s the 75 mm version. I figured with what I have planned set up wise I could make good power up to 6k, just trying to debate if I should save the money on porting and flip my GT40 and get something better. Just bummed bc my intake turned out really nice powder coat wise.

Its probably the 75mm version, which would be better for your combo anyways. Honestly though, if your just planning on pulling to 5500-6000 rpm, a ported Gt40 tubular would be just fine for the street and give you a little more low end. I used to run the street heat intake with TW170s and a TW stage 1 cam. When i switched out to a stage 2 and the track heat intake, i lost quite a bit of low end. I was pulling to 6700 though so i wanted to push the powerband up. An R intake will tend to make more peak power, but thats not what you always want for street duty.

Im partial to a nice gt40 tubular, i still think its one of the best looking intakes. I have one in storage i just cant quite sell yet. I dont even have a pushrod motor anymore.

Best thing for those 11r's no matter what intake you decide on, port match the intake to the heads. A laminar air flow into those heads takes advantage of the overall design.

 

[Reddevil91]

Its probably the 75mm version, which would be better for your combo anyways. Honestly though, if your just planning on pulling to 5500-6000 rpm, a ported Gt40 tubular would be just fine for the street and give you a little more low end. I used to run the street heat intake with TW170s and a TW stage 1 cam. When i switched out to a stage 2 and the track heat intake, i lost quite a bit of low end. I was pulling to 6700 though so i wanted to push the powerband up. An R intake will tend to make more peak power, but thats not what you always want for street duty.

Im partial to a nice gt40 tubular, i still think its one of the best looking intakes. I have one in storage i just cant quite sell yet. I dont even have a pushrod motor anymore.

Best thing for those 11r's no matter what intake you decide on, port match the intake to the heads. A laminar air flow into those heads takes advantage of the overall design.

Yeah idk, I have always liked the tubulars but I can get that R series for what I think is a really good deal at 400. I could be wrong but that’s a good price compared to 700, as log as it’s clean. My car is more street oriented no track days, just want some good HP, just figured I might decide to stroke it to 331 or 347 so that R series might be a better fit at that point?

 

[Hoytster]

Yeah idk, I have always liked the tubulars but I can get that R series for what I think is a really good deal at 400. I could be wrong but that’s a good price compared to 700, as log as it’s clean. My car is more street oriented no track days, just want some good HP, just figured I might decide to stroke it to 331 or 347 so that R series might be a better fit at that point?

Yeah man, if your thinking of going to a 331 or 347, then a 75mm R series will definitely be a better fit. A GT40 will be a choke point at those levels. Good for low end torque but you'll be leaving a lot of HP on the table. That's a decent deal on that R series.

 

[A5literMan]

There used to be a flow chart that mm&ff printed years ago. The tubular 40 ported actually out performed the aftermarket intakes including the tfs r in the low to mid range and made a better street intake.

With a 11 r head I couldn’t agree more on what @Hoytster said. Accept if you are going 331-347 I would go 90mm on the throttle body size. You don’t want any restriction in the induction system.

 

[Hoytster]

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/engine/173-0101-super/

Here ya are. Real world HP numbers from those two intakes on a 347.

 

[Reddevil91]

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/engine/173-0101-super/

Here ya are. Real world HP numbers from those two intakes on a 347.

Nice thanks man great read

 

[Reddevil91]

Yeah man, if your thinking of going to a 331 or 347, then a 75mm R series will definitely be a better fit. A GT40 will be a choke point at those levels. Good for low end torque but you'll be leaving a lot of HP on the table. That's a decent deal on that R series.

So do you know if it’s worth say buying a stroker kit like the ones I saw on Lmr and rebuilding my block, not sure what that costs to pull the motor and have taken to a machine shop and all fixed up, balanced etc, or would one be better off buying a stroker motor like the ford performance 347 or dart 347?

 

[Hoytster]

So do you know if it’s worth say buying a stroker kit like the ones I saw on Lmr and rebuilding my block, not sure what that costs to pull the motor and have taken to a machine shop and all fixed up, balanced etc, or would one be better off buying a stroker motor like the ford performance 347 or dart 347?

It really depends on what your final goals are with the car. If you're planning on staying N/A then rebuilding the stock engine with a stroker kit is the way i would go. You're still going to have to pull the motor no matter what you do. As long as you can wait to get the motor rebuilt, you will have less money into a rebuild (especially if you do some of the work) then buying either of those packages. There are other options for a 347 shortblock (using a stock block) that do come close to the cost of a stock rebuild, using your 11r heads of course.

If you ever plan on going boosted with a 347, then the aftermarket block in either of those packaged will almost become necessary. You will reach the limits of the stock block very quickly.

What are your goals with the car? I always suggest setting a goal and then working toward it. The pursuit of horsepower can be endless and overwhelming otherwise.

 

[Reddevil91]

It really depends on what your final goals are with the car. If you're planning on staying N/A then rebuilding the stock engine with a stroker kit is the way i would go. You're still going to have to pull the motor no matter what you do. As long as you can wait to get the motor rebuilt, you will have less money into a rebuild (especially if you do some of the work) then buying either of those packages. There are other options for a 347 shortblock (using a stock block) that do come close to the cost of a stock rebuild, using your 11r heads of course.

If you ever plan on going boosted with a 347, then the aftermarket block in either of those packaged will almost become necessary. You will reach the limits of the stock block very quickly.

What are your goals with the car? I always suggest setting a goal and then working toward it. The pursuit of horsepower can be endless and overwhelming otherwise.

So I really do wish I could do more work on my own car but I’m not all that experienced with doing any sort of work like that. I’m currently struggling with my lca’s ha ha that one last upper is gonna make me rage. I can put ppl to sleep all day but engine work baffles me. So yes with the heads I am planning on the injectors, mass air, and V3, which originally I was going to put on my stock block and see how things went with my tubular GT40, but now I’m tempted to stroke the car. No big race days, more of a weekend car, go out kick some butt, car shows kinda deal. Just always wanted a stroked motor. Seems like the stroker kits are reasonable depending on which beams you want but I’d guess go with H beams. But I don’t know any good shops in Austin,TX and I don’t want to take it some where and get taken either by having someone rebuild my motor. Then I stumbled across those two 347s on LMR for around 5k and I was like hmm, it’s new and ready to go.

 

[A5literMan]

If your current motor runs fine(ie doesn’t use oil,etc) and all you want is under 450hp or so(which again is more than you will ever need on the street)..just buy the blower and all the accessories needed. Then install that with your heads and any intake you want.

To be honest the old tubular gt40 intakes are super sweet looking. Especially if you polish and or powdercoat them. I would spend the time and money doing that for a street/show car than buying a different intake. Now if it’s a regular “cobra” intake...buy a different one lol. They are boring. Lol

Just to put a price on some things for you:

Labor rates in shops vary greatly from different geographical areas but expect around 100$ an hour is my guess. So a shop pulling and installing a new motor/heads/etc would probably cost about 2k (that’s what I would budget but talk to that shop first).

A stock short block rebuild(stroker) will cost around 3k(my guess) and with those heads,parted gt40 or Tfs R intake and a good camshaft you will make about the same power as a blown stock motor so around 350-400rwhp.

This entire discussion is going to cost at least 7-8k minimum. For just the motor or blower option. That assumes you already have the heads. A dart block/Vortech build is minimum 15k for parts. And you’ll need to upgrade the transmission,rearend,suspension,fuel system, basically everything in the drivetrain lol.

So...if you just want a little fun on the street and have a nice looking driver...Don’t chase a bunch of power. It’s a long dark hole otherwise lol

 

[Reddevil91]

If your current motor runs fine(ie doesn’t use oil,etc) and all you want is under 450hp or so(which again is more than you will ever need on the street)..just buy the blower and all the accessories needed. Then install that with your heads and any intake you want.

To be honest the old tubular gt40 intakes are super sweet looking. Especially if you polish and or powdercoat them. I would spend the time and money doing that for a street/show car than buying a different intake. Now if it’s a regular “cobra” intake...buy a different one lol. They are boring. Lol

Just to put a price on some things for you:

Labor rates in shops vary greatly from different geographical areas but expect around 100$ an hour is my guess. So a shop pulling and installing a new motor/heads/etc would probably cost about 2k (that’s what I would budget but talk to that shop first).

A stock short block rebuild(stroker) will cost around 3k(my guess) and with those heads,parted gt40 or Tfs R intake and a good camshaft you will make about the same power as a blown stock motor so around 350-400rwhp.

This entire discussion is going to cost at least 7-8k minimum. For just the motor or blower option. That assumes you already have the heads. A dart block/Vortech build is minimum 15k for parts. And you’ll need to upgrade the transmission,rearend,suspension,fuel system, basically everything in the drivetrain lol.

So...if you just want a little fun on the street and have a nice looking driver...Don’t chase a bunch of power. It’s a long dark hole otherwise lol

That’s some truth right there, engine wise I don’t have any major issues. Car starts and runs great and that’s with being tucked away in garages the last 14 or so years. Mainly either battery changes or charging and it cranks right up. I like your words of wisdom and I already know that once I get more power I’ll probably want more. Maybe I should just get my heads, injectors, mass air and v3 and set it up on my current block and see what I can get out of it. My mind goes from one thing, to another, to another. You are right on the looks of the tubulars it’s such a great looking piece. I’m just debating on powder coating my lower after I send and receive it back from the port job, since I didn’t realize I needed to buy the oil filler for my valve covers, but now need to get that coated.

 

[Hoytster]

I agree with what @A5literMan said. That why I suggested you set a goal and do what is needed to meet that goal. As he stated, you can start spending boat loads of money and time chasing horsepower, it can be never ending. If 600-700 HP is your goal, then do what's needed to meet that. But if you just want a nice street vehicle that is tons of fun, focus on good drivability and responsiveness. A GT40 with 11R 190 heads on a stock block with a V3 will meet that goal and then some. Once you get past the 450-500HP mark, it's requires a whole different level of modifications to be able to use that power. Well, unless you just want to do 4th gear burnouts.

And this is coming from a guy that is building a 800rwhp fox.

 

[Reddevil91]

I agree with what @A5literMan said. That why I suggested you set a goal and do what is needed to meet that goal. As he stated, you can start spending boat loads of money and time chasing horsepower, it can be never ending. If 600-700 HP is your goal, then do what's needed to meet that. But if you just want a nice street vehicle that is tons of fun, focus on good drivability and responsiveness. A GT40 with 11R 190 heads on a stock block with a V3 will meet that goal and then some. Once you get past the 450-500HP mark, it's requires a whole different level of modifications to be able to use that power. Well, unless you just want to do 4th gear burnouts.

And this is coming from a guy that is building a 800rwhp fox.

Ha ha yeah honestly I would love to hit from 4-500 hp, which is sounding some what attainable with the set up I have been considering. I can try this set up out, see what I can pull out of it, and if later down the line something goes bad motor wise, I can upgrade to the 347 or swap to a coyote. 800 wtf!!! That sounds nuts, what kinda set up are you running. I’m guessing you are taking that for track days/ streetable lol?!?! So for my lower this is what’s planned and he knew I was either going 170s or 190s but states these job would be good for either head. I have no idea on what he is talking about dimension wise but from what everyone says this guy knows what he is doing.
Porting GT40 lower intake for TW 170 11R heads (1250 port w 3/8"r corners) with welded #1 & #3 runners -

 

[Hoytster]

Yep, that will be very attainable with your current plans and I'm sure it will put a huge grin on your face the first time you take it out. You'll definitely be looking for more traction.

Tmoss definitely knows what he is doing if that is who you're planning on going with. He's been around for quite awhile and I have never heard anything bad about his work.

I'm doing a full street/road race build with a built turbo coyote motor. Surprisingly nothing crazy for a coyote, just some head/cam work and 12 psi on a built shortblock.

 

[Reddevil91]

He

Yep, that will be very attainable with your current plans and I'm sure it will put a huge grin on your face the first time you take it out. You'll definitely be looking for more traction.

Tmoss definitely knows what he is doing if that is who you're planning on going with. He's been around for quite awhile and I have never heard anything bad about his work.

I'm doing a full street/road race build with a built turbo coyote motor. Surprisingly nothing crazy for a coyote, just some head/cam work and 12 psi on a built shortblock.

Yup I’m going through Tmoss, and that sounds crazy, do you have any vids on YouTube or any build threads in here to check it out?

 

[Hoytster]

He

Yup I’m going through Tmoss, and that sounds crazy, do you have any vids on YouTube or any build threads in here to check it out?

Good to hear, I'm sure you'll be impressed by his work.

Yeah, my build thread is in my signature, or just search for "boosted coyote swap". I'm just in the early stages of chassis and suspension work right now, nothing too interesting to most people. When you want to make this much power, reliably, you're basically rebuilding and restructuring the whole vehicle.