Almost there.
Also, pro-tip: don’t stand too close to the drill when you’re drilling through metal while using a non-round shank HSS bit. Feel like I was just in a fist fight.
The car should be in the air tomorrow. I still have to weld up my modified mounting brackets.
We never learn, do we?Heh, I was fabbing something a few weeks back, the flip down gauge pod I made I think and while boring out the gauge hole managed to catch the sheet metal and buried it in my palm, cut all the way down to the fatty layer, its has healed up now and probably wont scar because its the palm, but yeah...that one stung. My fault for not having the piece clamped down or wearing gloves...just when you don't think you need to it bites you...literally.
Nothing that will cause problems for your paint.@Davedacarpainter I have a quick question: I bought a Devilbiss FLG4 paint gun to prime the car. Do new paint guns have any sort of preservation oil in them that I'll need to flush out before I use it?
Thanks, Dave! Sometime this week I'll get some thinner and flush it real quick. Then I'll set it up and dial it in before I get the car blasted. I'm looking forward to using this thing!Nothing that will cause problems for your paint.
That being said, I always flush my new guns out with thinner first, lol.
Another question for you: I bought a DeKups kit with the 24-oz. disposable cups. How much of the car do you think I can cover with one 24-oz. cup? I’m curious how many coats I’ll be able to get with the gallon of primer I have. It’s a 1:1 mix with the activator, if that matters.Nothing that will cause problems for your paint.
That being said, I always flush my new guns out with thinner first, lol.
What kind of primer are you talking about John? Epoxy?Another question for you: I bought a DeKups kit with the 24-oz. disposable cups. How much of the car do you think I can cover with one 24-oz. cup? I’m curious how many coats I’ll be able to get with the gallon of primer I have. It’s a 1:1 mix with the activator, if that matters.
Edit: and another question for anyone with experience who cares to answer (@horse sence @95steedamustang ?), what’s the process after I get primer on the bare metal? I mean, how do I go about filling low spots and blocking the car? Primer? Sealer? High build? Filler? Glaze? These are all terms I need to have explained to me like I’m an idiot.
Thanks so much, Dave! This is all super helpful. Now I have picture in my mind of the process I'll need. I still have more bodywork to take care of before I can blast and spray the car.What kind of primer are you talking about John? Epoxy?
I haven’t been following along like I should, Are you just wanting to cover bare metal right now? Though your question makes me think that’s exactly what you are asking. So for one coat you have more than enough.
I use the Dekup system at work, btw.
This would be a rather lengthy post if I answered all your questions at once.
Quick run down of definitions.
Primer. A number of types of coating used for various reasons. Such as:
-Epoxy primer. Used for protecting bare metals and prepped surfaces prior to and/or immediately after bodywork.
-Etch primer, also called acid etch primer. Used to provide chemical adhesion between baremetal and various topcoatings. NOT to be used under epoxies. It’s main ingredient is phosphoric acid and it will degrade an epoxy.
You must use one of those two primers on bare metal to provide adhesion for the top coatings.
-High build primer. Used to fill very small imperfections and for repaired surfaces. This is used at least once, possibly mire times as your doing the final straightening through blocking of your panels. Lots more info concerning that one….
-Sealer primer. Used primarily at the beginning of the final paint process. Provides adhesion between an already prepped surface and the topcoatings. Also provides a “cushioning layer” kind of like padding under a carpet. A new panel without sealer will chip far easier, just like a rug without padding will wear out quicker.
Filler. Also known as body filler, mud, bondo…..It’s what you’ll use for your main straightening component after you’ve straightened the panel as good as you can through metal work.
-Glaze. It’s used after your primary straightening with bondo. Also good for really small dents. It’s a really thin type of filler that you spread over the top of your straightened mud work.
Like previously, lots more to say about the use of fillers.
I’m getting very close to getting back to work on this thing. I spent some time last weekend clearing out parts and junk that had taken up residence inside the car. It’s much cleaner inside and under the car now.It was worth it. Got everything mounted up and it's in the air. It's too tall to spin it inside the garage without bumping it into the bottom rail. I'll have to move it outside if I want to spin it. No big deal.
The modifications of the mounting brackets turned out really well.
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