Progress Thread The "grátis" 1966 Coupe - final sheet metal repairs

02 281 GT

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Jan 16, 2019

#81

• Jan 16, 2019

• #81

horse sence said:

Looks like someone may have patched some holes in the tailpanel at one time . I dont think that the pieces under the end caps can be bought seperat from the quarters . I will be pulling the quarters off mine soon and i can save them if you need them ,if you have to do the quarters new ones come with the new quarters.
Is the trunk floor bad enough to need replacing or can you just patch the rusted area?

Click to expand...

There isn’t really any rust. It’s just damage to the sheet metal that looks like it was from an accident. You can see it just to the right of the driver’s bumper bracket. The rear trunk support is also pretty mangled and looks like someone tried straightening it out before. That’ll get replaced too.

So far, all the rust is just on the surface except for the floor pans and possibly some areas of the cowl. I wouldn’t need to replace much if it weren’t for the accident repairs and bad bodywork.

Edit: I will be needing those extension pieces if you have them or know where I can get them. I thought Dynacorn had the extension pieces separate. They do, but only for a fastback.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/dynacor...er-driver-side-fastback-1965-1966/p/3647FBWT/

 

Last edited: Jan 16, 2019

horse sence

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Jan 17, 2019

#82

• Jan 17, 2019

• #82

The quarter end piece is the same piece ,fast back ,convert ,and coupe . The new ones have the corner chanel made to them so that saves a bit of work

 

02 281 GT

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Jan 17, 2019

#83

• Jan 17, 2019

• #83

horse sence said:

The quarter end piece is the same piece ,fast back ,convert ,and coupe . The new ones have the corner chanel made to them so that saves a bit of work

Click to expand...

So I could get those and use them on my coupe? I assume the primary difference is a higher upward angle on the trunk channel portion of the piece? Or is there no difference at all and CJ just labeled them incorrectly?

 

horse sence

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#84

• Jan 17, 2019

• #84

No difference at that end of the car ,one piece fits all ,67 _68 is different

 

02 281 GT

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Jan 17, 2019

#85

• Jan 17, 2019

• #85

Would this work for protecting small areas until I get the car blasted?

 

horse sence

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Jan 17, 2019

#86

• Jan 17, 2019

• #86

They actually have automotive primer in spray cans ,check paint department in Homedepot , rustolium it will work to keep away rust untill you blast

 

02 281 GT

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Jan 17, 2019

#87

• Jan 17, 2019

• #87

horse sence said:

They actually have automotive primer in spray cans ,check paint department in Homedepot ,it will work to keep away rust untill you blast

Click to expand...

I’m at Lowe’s. They have automotive primer, but isn’t it the usual porous stuff? I’ll take another look.

 

horse sence

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#88

• Jan 17, 2019

• #88

They probably have the rustolium at lowes ,it comes sandable or non sandable

 

02 281 GT

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Jan 17, 2019

#89

• Jan 17, 2019

• #89

horse sence said:

They probably have the rustolium at lowes ,it comes sandable or non sandable

Click to expand...

Oddly enough, the only Rustoleum I can find here is enamel paints. There is this stuff, but Krylon again.

 

02 281 GT

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Jan 17, 2019

#90

• Jan 17, 2019

• #90

I didn’t realize until I took the photo that it said automotive on it. I went with the one on the left.

 

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Davedacarpainter

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Jan 17, 2019

#91

• Jan 17, 2019

• #91

Honestly you can get away with any type of paint just to cover the metal.

It doesn't even have to be an etch based primer.

Something with etch will adhere to the metal, meaning it'll last for awhile.

So John, depends on how long before you get back to the areas you're covering. If it'll be a month or three. Put any paint on it to cover the bare metal. Treat bare metal like it's your most precious thing. Rust happens QUICKLY.

Honestly though, don't waste your money on a non etch primer. This project will take awhile.

Plus if you use a non etch primer you'll have to strip every bit of the crap off of there when you go to work on them again.

Anything you get at a hardware store, no matter how pricey should be considered temporary. I'm not totally knocking it though.

You know the cheap rattle can bs I used on Booger, right? I've used it just to protect the metal until I can do it right. It's a similar product to the stuff at Lowes or Home Depot. It does serve a purpose, just not a permanent one.

Tell you what John, just use any paint you can find at the hardware store that has an etch capability to it. I'll stop by wichita Falls on the way to Dalllas and spend a day with you to help you out this spring.

@horse sence , aren't you in Cali? With your expertise in classic mustangs it sure would be good to have you there. Maybe we could do a video chat when I stop down and help John out? What do you think?

 

horse sence

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#92

• Jan 17, 2019

• #92

I dont get around much any more ,but would love to

 

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02 281 GT

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Jan 17, 2019

#93

• Jan 17, 2019

• #93

Y'all are most definitely welcome at my abode!

As far as protecting the metal goes, at the rate I'm currently going I'll probably have all the sheet metal I intend to remove removed in a couple of months (floor pan, the rest of the tail light panel area, cowl). I'll have a welder by then and can start worrying about getting the car off the ground and level. There's a local place that does dustless blasting that I still need to call for a quote.

I mostly got this primer to cover some of the areas I've already exposed and will have exposed and cleaned up after removing the old metal. It's definitely not meant to eventually become the substrate for the final paint job.

Dave, if you make it down here, I'd love to get a lesson on how to best work with metal. I'm sure there are some areas where that skill would come in handy.

 

02 281 GT

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Jan 23, 2019

#94

• Jan 23, 2019

• #94

So this past weekend I was again embattled with a stomach bug (twice in as many months). While it passed quickly, it sapped all my energy that I was planning to use to work on the car over the holiday. I did manage to get the rest of the tail panel extension brackets cut out of the car, however, I didn't take any pictures. Maybe later. I'm feeling much better now, though.

That said, there is a TON of that brazing crap all over the ends of the quarters. What is the best way to remove this stuff besides just grinding it away? There seems to be precious little metal left at the end of these quarters. I really, really don't want to have to replace these quarters. I think I can handle installing new metal, but I'm not sure I could handle fitment issues that may arise from aftermarket panels in the event I'm forced to replace large pieces like the quarters.

I'll take some pictures when I get home so you can see what I mean. The original flanges spot welded to the quarters were completely rusted through. They were only attached to the car by brazing.

 

RaggedGT

Been here over a DECADE and still no CT

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Jan 23, 2019

#95

• Jan 23, 2019

• #95

If you are careful-you can melt the braze off

 

02 281 GT

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Jan 23, 2019

#96

• Jan 23, 2019

• #96

Pictures. Driver's side isn't as bad as the passenger side.





I was able to at least salvage a good deal of the quarter panel flange on the passenger side.


Someone's effort at dent repair on the driver's side.


On an unrelated note, I also noticed that the upper mounting nuts for the hood hinges on both sides are missing. Who know's why.

 

02 281 GT

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Jan 23, 2019

#97

• Jan 23, 2019

• #97

RaggedGT said:

If you are careful-you can melt the braze off

Click to expand...

I don't know if I could be that careful. What kind of heat are we talking about here?

 

RaggedGT

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Jan 23, 2019

#98

• Jan 23, 2019

• #98

02 281 GT said:

I don't know if I could be that careful. What kind of heat are we talking about here?

Click to expand...

I’ve had good luck using a handheld torch with map gas. When I would braise studs or patches in-I used an acetylene torch

 

02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs

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Jan 23, 2019

#99

• Jan 23, 2019

• #99

RaggedGT said:

I’ve had good luck using a handheld torch with map gas. When I would braise studs or patches in-I used an acetylene torch

Click to expand...

I was hoping you’d say map gas. I have a map gas torch. I’ll give it a try and see what happens.

 

02 281 GT

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Feb 17, 2019

#100

• Feb 17, 2019

• #100

Back at it today and the car has no more suspension. Going to have to fabricate some means of moving it around, but I'll worry about that later. Can anyone recommend a good, decently priced cart or rotisserie? Or should I just try to fabricate something once I get my welder?



This appears to be a dirt collection tray.


Underside looks fairly good.


The front leaf bolts were rusted into the bushings. I was worried about this, but I ended up coming up with a good solution. I used my MAP torch to burn away enough of the bushing to where I could get a vise grip on the metal insert. Didn't take much effort with the impact to break them loose.

The left side bumper bracket is tweaked along with the trunk floor in that area. Not sure how I'll go about remedying this. The metal is solid with no rust.



Also, is it possible to get patches for the dash other that just the radio hole? Someone ripped out the old ignition cylinder and there is also damage around the HVAC controls. I'd rather not replace the whole dash, and I don't want to buy a new dash just to cut it up for what I need.