Build Thread The Hoopty Chronicles - New House, New garage, New Car?
- Thread starter hoopty5.0
- Start date
*Braces for another Noobz/Mike lashing*
Finished everything on the MS short of soldering on the 60-pin connector where it plugs into the harness. I fixed a few soldering issues that were pointed out previously and feel relatively confident that it will work without issues.
It looks better. I think your gun is the limitation now. If the 60 pin is braided wire, you wight want to consider tinning each of the tip before soldering to the board. Get a 60W ebay pencil iron. It'll make your life a lot easier.
Thanks, and yes, the gun is not a "quality" unit by any stretch. It's a 40w Radio Shack pen-type.
The 60 pin is all metal leads. Right now I am struggling with desoldering the connector. Fought with it for about an hour last night and might have got 8 of them done.
This is because your connections are getting too hot when yo solder and it's flowing all the way through the hole
Not sure I follow. The picture above is a stock ECM that I am trying to remove the connector from. I was placing the desoldering braid on the pin and putting the iron on top of that.I could get most of the solder out, but there was a little left that would not wick up the braid.
I did some reading after the fact that suggested I should preheat before using the braid. Agree?
Now I don't follow. Preheat what, the connection, the braid? I've never preheated either for desoldering. If you have a small tube of flux, that's even better. It requires about as much as you can fit on the head of a sewing pin, for each connection.
What I was referring to above was that I thought you had to remove connections that you had previously soldered. Now I see what you were talking about. Yeah, those were soldered with a flow soldering machine. Very efficient and it generally makes great solder connections. Removal can be a bit tedious. Hang in there though. You will find that you will improve quickly. It's a lot easier than welding IMO but does require a rhythm and feel, to do well.
One of the things that helps with desoldering machine soldered PCBs is to touch each connection with heated desoldering braid from the top. Only the cold portion of the solder connection will refuse to flow to the braid so clearing the top first can help.
One other thing that can help is to apply a very small dab of solder to the top of the heated braid. It's really just the flux that you want. Just enough to get things moving.
skyline247
Advanced Member
- Dec 19, 2010
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@hoopty5.0 So looking forward to you figuring this thing out so you can teach me more about how to use mine. LOL
Looks like that I am a little late to be helpful, but here it goes anyway...
See
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aw4lZGk90i4
This is the method that I most frequently use to remove components from PC boards. The one thing that I would add is to cut a small V in the Teflon tip Make it just big enough for the tip of the soldering iron to fit through and make contact with the solder pad and pin.
Keep in mind that multilayer PC boards like the computer pc board on a car, desktop or laptop require a little more heat to desolder the joints. Sometimes a 60 watt pencil tip is needed and other time a good name brand like a $40+ Weller is what you want to do the job. I don't cheap out on tools, good tools work well and last a long time. I do encourage you to visit YouTube and watch some of the soldering/desoldering videos
For big jobs, I have a homemade desoldering station with an electric vacuum pump, a vacuum tank and foot operated valve to turn the vacuum on just when I need it. It is fast and works well when there are a lot of connections to unsolder.
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Update:
I got the firmware loaded onto the MS, but having issues with loading the base tune. I got a bunch of errors saying that the tune wasn't compatible with the firmware. I also noticed some of the ignition settings in the base tune were different that what were listed in the setup documentation. The base tune is from DIYAuto tune, so I find it odd that they are different.
I posted some questions on their forum that have gone unanswered, so I tried posting on Corral as well. If that doesn't work, then I may go hunt for a different base tune from someone who is willing to share.
I got the firmware loaded onto the MS, but having issues with loading the base tune. I got a bunch of errors saying that the tune wasn't compatible with the firmware. I also noticed some of the ignition settings in the base tune were different that what were listed in the setup documentation. The base tune is from DIYAuto tune, so I find it odd that they are different.
I posted some questions on their forum that have gone unanswered, so I tried posting on Corral as well. If that doesn't work, then I may go hunt for a different base tune from someone who is willing to share.
Save yourself the headache of trying to communicate through the forum,...that'll take years. Call Matt Cramer at diy directly. Idk the number, but a Google search will produce it. ( a 678 prefix)
I will try to this week. The office is a ghost town (except the creeper in the cube next door, of course.), so I should have plenty of time.
it
It's still a less than satisfying experience, but way faster than waiting on somebody from that forum to reply. I still have unanswered questions posted there.
Lame. I may be better off begging for a tune I know works. I just can't get past the "here's our base tune, which is set up completely different than what the instructions say to use."
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