85GTStangGuy
Advanced Member
Tesa tape.... they come in different versions and widths, if needed.
The Junk Pyle has moved forward, well sort of
- Thread starter General karthief
- Start date
Tesa tape.... they come in different versions and widths, if needed.
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Question: I got a explorer lower, 98 I believe, no EGR or ACT boss in the #5 intake runner, BB part number. Is it worth keeping as is and find a stock fox lower to take the oil baffle out of?
Is the fox baffle the same weeny piece my GT40 lower has?
Is the fox baffle the same weeny piece my GT40 lower has?
Gonna dump some pics for the two or three that are still following this boring sht. Oh, and Noobz since all he see's are ones and zeros or dots and dashes depending on what octane gas he is using when he sees this.
First the failure, human error:
Didn't let them soak long enough! quick wipe down with laqure thinner and primer/paint.
bolt it all up with the AC condenser in place.
Next:
take this weeny PCV shield off and install this:
I had asked about doing this but got no opinions so I'm doing it. I've noticed several upper intakes that I have removed from several engines and they all had two things in common, the weeny shield and black oily residue inside so it's gotta be better right?
RIGHT??
Gonna have a machine shop drill/tap the bosses for screws and glue them in with some blue Loctite. Those rivets that hold them in from the factory are hard and I don't have a tap(or the patience)
Get this lower intake on and things should start moving along at a little faster pace.
First the failure, human error:
Didn't let them soak long enough! quick wipe down with laqure thinner and primer/paint.
bolt it all up with the AC condenser in place.
Next:
take this weeny PCV shield off and install this:
I had asked about doing this but got no opinions so I'm doing it. I've noticed several upper intakes that I have removed from several engines and they all had two things in common, the weeny shield and black oily residue inside so it's gotta be better right?
RIGHT??
Gonna have a machine shop drill/tap the bosses for screws and glue them in with some blue Loctite. Those rivets that hold them in from the factory are hard and I don't have a tap(or the patience)
Get this lower intake on and things should start moving along at a little faster pace.
I wasn't gonna show the booger job my machine shop did but I'm committed to show'n y'all the GOOD, the BAD and the UGLY, lots of UGLY !
I love my local machine shops, there are two I deal with. One old school, one more modern, I went to the modern, big shop, told him what I needed done, well he said "how bout just tack weld the baffle to the steel pins?"
20 bucks and 20 minutes later I'm on my way home.
Now I can glue some of this engine back together
85GTStangGuy
Advanced Member
Which shops do you use ??
I wasn't gonna show the booger job my machine shop did but I'm committed to show'n y'all the GOOD, the BAD and the UGLY, lots of UGLY !
I love my local machine shops, there are two I deal with. One old school, one more modern, I went to the modern, big shop, told him what I needed done, well he said "how bout just tack weld the baffle to the steel pins?"
20 bucks and 20 minutes later I'm on my way home.
Now I can glue some of this engine back together
I'll get the info and text you, super secret so top level clearance needed but I think I can trust you.
It's all the other shady characters around here
It's all the other shady characters around here
OK.. The reason I ask is when I was looking for machine shops it seemed like there were not very many around locally.... TYI'll get the info and text you, super secret so top level clearance needed but I think I can trust you.
It's all the other shady characters around here
The big one is kinda hidden at the end of a dirt road, kinda scary but that's the only time they are open........oops, prolly should not have said that 
You should of made your own shield and covered the whole bottom, it keeps the whole intake cooler.
I wasn't gonna show the booger job my machine shop did but I'm committed to show'n y'all the GOOD, the BAD and the UGLY, lots of UGLY !
I love my local machine shops, there are two I deal with. One old school, one more modern, I went to the modern, big shop, told him what I needed done, well he said "how bout just tack weld the baffle to the steel pins?"
20 bucks and 20 minutes later I'm on my way home.
Now I can glue some of this engine back together
The bow tie crowd can buy valley shields to use , I haven't seen ones for us blue ovalers.
Yes, General bring it over as I can use my new welder for the 2nd time ( I have ever welded) on it practicin.....
Putting parts and pieces together, fixed some of the tape that was falling off, yeah that was a disappointment, tossed that roll of junk into the neighbors back yard.
Intake, squirters, rail on permanently (I hope), heater hose tube with temp sensor mocked up, distributor set (I hope), PS/AC bracket on with PS pump loosely mounted.
Now got some wiring harness stuff to deal with, thinking that DEI stuff, and before @limp chimes in ; https://www.designengineering.com/press/dei-introduces-easy-loom-split-line-sleeving-master-kit/
not the political version.
I guess I need to get out more, there are a sht-ton of wire loom stuff, gonna shop around. Like adult homework.
Hey... Anybody got any loose wire loom? Not the plastic factory junk.
oh yeah, I got a 3G alt to mount and wire and I was looking at the pulley, it's larger than my old alt pulley, I have underdrive pulleys, yeah, I know, but they are on there, I have the stock size stuff if needed, anyway, seems like when I put the UD pulleys on including the UD pulley on the alt it over charged like 16 /18 volts just off idle, I put the stock pulley on and alls been well since, the 3G pulley is bigger in diameter so I don't know what to expext, the shaft for the 3G is smaller so the pulleys likely will not swap, may have to make some adjustments, we'll see.
Intake, squirters, rail on permanently (I hope), heater hose tube with temp sensor mocked up, distributor set (I hope), PS/AC bracket on with PS pump loosely mounted.
Now got some wiring harness stuff to deal with, thinking that DEI stuff, and before @limp chimes in ; https://www.designengineering.com/press/dei-introduces-easy-loom-split-line-sleeving-master-kit/
not the political version.
I guess I need to get out more, there are a sht-ton of wire loom stuff, gonna shop around. Like adult homework.
Hey... Anybody got any loose wire loom? Not the plastic factory junk.
oh yeah, I got a 3G alt to mount and wire and I was looking at the pulley, it's larger than my old alt pulley, I have underdrive pulleys, yeah, I know, but they are on there, I have the stock size stuff if needed, anyway, seems like when I put the UD pulleys on including the UD pulley on the alt it over charged like 16 /18 volts just off idle, I put the stock pulley on and alls been well since, the 3G pulley is bigger in diameter so I don't know what to expext, the shaft for the 3G is smaller so the pulleys likely will not swap, may have to make some adjustments, we'll see.
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That looks too nice for the Valdeze.
In case you decide you need it later.
I think I see your old heater core and interior
In case you decide you need it later.
I think I see your old heater core and interior
No, I take it easy in the heat, find things to do in the shade, I need to sell the 'Dump Truck' to put the AC in the garage like I want, them 'window shakers' cost too much to run.
85GTStangGuy
Advanced Member
General, tell me those aren't zip ties I see in that pile!
So, ya liking that tesa tape?
And what are you looking for regarding wire loom? What size, and how much? I may have some extra, depending on your needs.
Put this one in my garage.. Its 220 and I dont' run it all the time but I have noticed almost no added cost to my Electric bill...
Having a ducted AC would be the way to go ..
How loud is it and you don't give any info on it.
I want a '2 piece stand alone' deal, man they are whisper quite.
I want a '2 piece stand alone' deal, man they are whisper quite.
