The Reenmachine DOHC '67 Shelby Clone Convertible Progress

Dark Knight · Aug 22, 2005

Hey, I dont suppose you have any measurements from the Heidts kit do you? how far back the cross member is, how far it drops, etc? Looking to put one on my 68, but I'm not sure if it will clear the pan on the 460 with the engine set back and down.. I want to make a mock up of it and an oil pan to see if there are any probs.

A front sump pan ALMOST works, but it drags on the cross link... and the ground

here's a bottom view,

thanks

reenmachine · Aug 22, 2005

Dark Knight said:
Hey, I dont suppose you have any measurements from the Heidts kit do you? how far back the cross member is, how far it drops, etc? Looking to put one on my 68, but I'm not sure if it will clear the pan on the 460 with the engine set back and down.. I want to make a mock up of it and an oil pan to see if there are any probs.

A front sump pan ALMOST works, but it drags on the cross link... and the ground

thanks

You've got to use a rear sump pan with the Heidt's or R&C MII kits. The crossmember centerline is 24.25" back from the flat surface on the front of the structure under the core support (at the front of the frame rails). I'd have to go measure how far down it is.

reenmachine · Aug 22, 2005

Sorry for not posting any updates lately -- I've been doing a lot of little things that don't look very interesting (wiring mostly). I'll get some new pics up soon.

Dark Knight · Aug 22, 2005

thanks.. I know I need the rear sump pan, but some have a wider area in the middle between the sumps.. canton's pan has a rear sump thats 7" long, moroso's is 8 3/4".
Front sump depth is different too.. the canton is wider in the middle.. may need that..

A friend here in phoenix has the RC motorsports setup, but I dont know if everything is the same.

Dr_Pain · Aug 24, 2005

Hey Reen,

I have been keeping up with your project, while being in the process of fab'ing mine and had a very quick question for you. I have looked closely at the pics of your project and don't seem to see if you had fabricated tie down loops or anythign of that nature to help in the transport of your car. I am at the point of considering fab'ing some for my car but wanted your opinions and the opinions of my fellow stangers. If you have any pics I would appreciate.

Claude
P.S. I also have the front end conversion in my car and deleted the trailing arm boxes to clean everythign up. Unlike you I re-skinned the engine bay NASCAR style, instead of just doing the patches

reenmachine · Aug 25, 2005

Dr_Pain said:
Hey Reen,

I have been keeping up with your project, while being in the process of fab'ing mine and had a very quick question for you. I have looked closely at the pics of your project and don't seem to see if you had fabricated tie down loops or anythign of that nature to help in the transport of your car. I am at the point of considering fab'ing some for my car but wanted your opinions and the opinions of my fellow stangers. If you have any pics I would appreciate.

I'm leaving the stock rear tie-downs in place, and the front crossmember makes for a nice beefy hard point for that end. I prefer to use tire straps anyway.

reenmachine · Aug 25, 2005

Exhaust opinions wanted...

I'm having a custom exhaust system made for the car. The engine combo and the IRS make it anything but straightforward.

I'm using the stock exhaust manifolds. I believe the stock exhaust has 2.25" tubes, and it looks like most of the aftermarket stuff is 2.5".

My question is this:
Is there any reason to go larger than the stock 2.25" given that I'm running stock manifolds on a '00 Cobra DOHC engine with no supercharger or anything?

2.25" pipe would be easier to fit in the cramped confines under the car, but I'll go 2.5" if there would be a real performance gain.

race-rodz · Aug 25, 2005

i personally see no reason to NOT run the 2.25..... especially given the space problems related. the factory used 2.25"... plus it also threw in some nice flow impeading cats. so straight 2.25" with good flowing mufflers will still be a step up from stock.

im sure others may agree and disagree.... just my $.02

Edbert · Aug 25, 2005

If you're keeping the exhaust manifolds I see no benefit to going larger than 2.25. Other than the headache and expense the larger tube MIGHT actually hurt performance considering the manifolds will be holding your flow back already.

HHStang · Aug 26, 2005

Are your stripes painted or tape?

reenmachine · Aug 26, 2005

HHStang said:
Are your stripes painted or tape?

Painted, in a "no-feel" fashion buried in the clear coat.

HHStang · Aug 27, 2005

Thanks. Where did you get the dimensions for the stripes? I'm thinking of doing my 67FB in black with white side GT stripes and the KR stripes like yours on the body. Did you find someone to make the new "GT" logo for you yet?

stackz · Aug 30, 2005

reenmachine said:

good project, very nice car thus far. been keeping up with the thread off and on.

few questions...

1. what kind of clamps are those on the fuel lines and where can I get some?

2. what kind of fuel line is that you're using? generic high pressure from the parts store or what?? can I see some pics of how you clamp it to the fuel pump and the fuel rail, etc?? do you use something like standard earls barbed fittings with simple clamps or something else??

3. you're running a standalone or stock ecu?? I saw the wiring pics and all. Regardless, what are you doing for the sensor plugs?? taking stock ones and splicing in wires or did you find a source for brand new plugs??

4. what gauge/type wire is that you're using for the ecu wiring??

thanks a bunch man.

reenmachine · Aug 30, 2005

HHStang said:
Thanks. Where did you get the dimensions for the stripes? I'm thinking of doing my 67FB in black with white side GT stripes and the KR stripes like yours on the body. Did you find someone to make the new "GT" logo for you yet?

We just eyeballed the stripe dimensions. The paint shop I use has done a bunch of Cobras, etc. and knows their stuff about tapering the stripes the perfect amount.

reenmachine · Aug 30, 2005

stackz said:
good project, very nice car thus far. been keeping up with the thread off and on.

few questions...

1. what kind of clamps are those on the fuel lines and where can I get some?

2. what kind of fuel line is that you're using? generic high pressure from the parts store or what?? can I see some pics of how you clamp it to the fuel pump and the fuel rail, etc?? do you use something like standard earls barbed fittings with simple clamps or something else??

3. you're running a standalone or stock ecu?? I saw the wiring pics and all. Regardless, what are you doing for the sensor plugs?? taking stock ones and splicing in wires or did you find a source for brand new plugs??

4. what gauge/type wire is that you're using for the ecu wiring??

thanks a bunch man.

1. The clamps are made for routing hydraulic hoses and you can probably find them at a decent industrial supply store.

2. The fuel line is Goodyear 300 psi fuel-rated socketless hose. All of the fittings I'm using are socketless on the hose end and AN on the other, and they're a mix of Aeroquip, Aeromotive, and Earl's.

3. The ECU is stock Ford EEC-V. There's a "Check Engine" light on the cluster, an OBD-II port under the dash, etc. All of the plugs are new, with the exception of a couple I cut from a new stock harness.

4. The wire gauge depends on the signal/load it's carrying. Everything's 125 C OEM-type wire -- don't use the stuff you get at the hardware or auto parts store.

reenmachine · Aug 30, 2005

I've been wiring, wiring, wiring lately (and working on another car). Wiring is one of those funny jobs where if you do it right, the more you do, the less it looks like you did. I've gone from huge gobs of wire everywhere to a car that almost looks like there's no wiring in it. I've been painstakingly harnessing everything and armoring any areas that could potentially rub anything to ensure reliability. Lots of mods to the Painless harness as well to remove unneeded stuff like the voltage regulator, coil, and apron-mounted solenoid wiring. I saw some cars while I was planning this project that had lots of unneeded wiring tucked away here and there and made a vow to avoid that.

As soon as I get things wrapped up with the chassis wiring it'll be time to make the cluster. I'm using Edbert's page as a guide, so keep your fingers crossed!

h8louzn · Sep 1, 2005

Hello Reen,
Wow I just read 11 pages!
That is one nice build up....
I am going to be doing a 4.6 dohc in a 55 fairlane in the near future.
I here there is a guy that does the wiring in So Cal.
He takes your engine harness and takes some wires out that we don't need like the 2nd set of 02's and makes it work for what we want to do.

Just can't figure out which way I want to go for the wiring.
Also what pan is on your 4.6?
I want to keep my stock front end but add the rack and pinion.
What do you think about that?
Thanks in advance,
Eddie

reenmachine · Sep 1, 2005

h8louzn said:
Hello Reen,
Wow I just read 11 pages!
That is one nice build up....
I am going to be doing a 4.6 dohc in a 55 fairlane in the near future.
I here there is a guy that does the wiring in So Cal.
He takes your engine harness and takes some wires out that we don't need like the 2nd set of 02's and makes it work for what we want to do.

Just can't figure out which way I want to go for the wiring.
Also what pan is on your 4.6?
I want to keep my stock front end but add the rack and pinion.
What do you think about that?
Thanks in advance,
Eddie

Eddie-
The pan is the stock Mustang rear sump pan. I have no idea what the engine compartment and suspension/steering looks like in a '55 Fairlane, so I can't be of much help there.

Good luck with the project!

65mistress · Sep 1, 2005

Eddie

What kind of R&P? I have access to a 57 Fairlane, and was thinking really hard on doing a 5.4 Lightning motor upgrade, which would require, brakes, trans and gobs of wiring unless I can figure out how to put a distributor module of some sort in there.

Reen, in your planning of your car have you come across any of the ignition control modules that are available? I know that they use some sort of crank mounted trigger to get the timing from there to the module then off to the coil packs, but I'm not finding much more information on them. I did hear that they are used widely on the modular race engines, any ideas? This is for a carburated modular engine btw...

reenmachine · Sep 1, 2005

65mistress said:
Reen, in your planning of your car have you come across any of the ignition control modules that are available? I know that they use some sort of crank mounted trigger to get the timing from there to the module then off to the coil packs, but I'm not finding much more information on them. I did hear that they are used widely on the modular race engines, any ideas? This is for a carburated modular engine btw...

I have heard about these snippets as well, but I've never really looked into it because I'm sticking with EFI and factory-type control. The latest issue of M&F has a bunch of modular info, and there's info on a company that makes a carb intake for the 4.6L. I'm sure they know all about it.

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