The SN65 project car
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dennis112
15 Year Member
Would there be room to mount the oil cooler inside the lower valance? It would be protected there and would also receive decent air flow.
Hi All,
Sorry that I haven't updated the site or posted much lately (5 days since the last update), but I have just been buried over the last week. Working on the car. Working on, sigh, work. Rebuilding my new laptop (Corrupted files drove me to the most drastic of measures. Wiping the system clean an reinstalling all the software and systems). Taking time to show my daily driver at a local car show. On and on...
On a positive note, the body shop did get two projects from people who have been following the build on the internet. One is a 67 Mustang convertible and the other is a Honda rice rocket. The 67 vert needs to be restored after a "small" electrical fire (drivers side engine bay). The "rocket" was in a slight fender bender, but needs a total paint job (Another body shop butchered what was supposed to be a high end "custom" paint job. Here is a photo of Wayne scraping the finish off with a razor blade.
Anyway, I digress...
As far as the car goes, we have been busy little beavers, with Wayne performing a lions share of the work. I have been working on the oil cooler installation, the intercooler mounting, the prop rod installation, etc... Wayne has been working on the drivers side fender and the front grill / valance installation. Following are some photos showing the progress of the past few days. If these aren't enough to keep you satisfied, we have downloaded many more photos at our site.
Prop rod details (Note the installation of the hood bumpers)
[img[http://sn65.com/images/SN65%20Images/05-08-24%20040.jpg[/img]
Oil filter / cooler details (I still have to install the debris shield). Pay special attention to the lines and fittings used. The lines look like your standard automotive hose, but they are a little bit more industrial than that. These armored hydraulic lines have a burst pressure of 9,000 psi. Also, the internal shielding makes these lines virtually impact resistant.
Flare details (Note the extractor vent)
Intercooler heat exchanger details
Catch ya'll l8r
Sorry that I haven't updated the site or posted much lately (5 days since the last update), but I have just been buried over the last week. Working on the car. Working on, sigh, work. Rebuilding my new laptop (Corrupted files drove me to the most drastic of measures. Wiping the system clean an reinstalling all the software and systems). Taking time to show my daily driver at a local car show. On and on...
On a positive note, the body shop did get two projects from people who have been following the build on the internet. One is a 67 Mustang convertible and the other is a Honda rice rocket. The 67 vert needs to be restored after a "small" electrical fire (drivers side engine bay). The "rocket" was in a slight fender bender, but needs a total paint job (Another body shop butchered what was supposed to be a high end "custom" paint job. Here is a photo of Wayne scraping the finish off with a razor blade.
Anyway, I digress...
As far as the car goes, we have been busy little beavers, with Wayne performing a lions share of the work. I have been working on the oil cooler installation, the intercooler mounting, the prop rod installation, etc... Wayne has been working on the drivers side fender and the front grill / valance installation. Following are some photos showing the progress of the past few days. If these aren't enough to keep you satisfied, we have downloaded many more photos at our site.
Prop rod details (Note the installation of the hood bumpers)
[img[http://sn65.com/images/SN65%20Images/05-08-24%20040.jpg[/img]
Oil filter / cooler details (I still have to install the debris shield). Pay special attention to the lines and fittings used. The lines look like your standard automotive hose, but they are a little bit more industrial than that. These armored hydraulic lines have a burst pressure of 9,000 psi. Also, the internal shielding makes these lines virtually impact resistant.
Flare details (Note the extractor vent)
Intercooler heat exchanger details
Catch ya'll l8r
Attachments
Hi D,dennis112 said:
We thought of this a while back, and while a great idea, we just don't have enough room. After installing the heat exchanger, there is just enough room left for the installation of the bumper brackets.
Stang2Man
Founding Member
I can't read the layline on the hose that you've used for the Oil filter and cooler. Let me know which hose it is, I'm very curious since I work in one of the Eaton/Aeroquip hose plants, and if that's one of my hoses, I'm definetly gonna claim some help to this project, hehe.
1320stang
Founding Member
Okay, I'm not worried about the oil cooler anymore, whatever debris picked up off the road hitting/putting hole in/knocking off the oil filter will easily take care of that.
I see your going with the extractor idea at the flare, even though I saw it crossed out. Are you going to beef up the flare at this point? I'm not sure how thick the fiberglass on those flares, but I'd be a bit worried about it twisting back and forth in a high speed vibration during "spirited" driving. I'd likely cut a strip of sheetmetal and bond it to the back of it overlaping the ends of the gap, that would stifen it up enough to survive a car door as well I'd think.
I see your going with the extractor idea at the flare, even though I saw it crossed out. Are you going to beef up the flare at this point? I'm not sure how thick the fiberglass on those flares, but I'd be a bit worried about it twisting back and forth in a high speed vibration during "spirited" driving. I'd likely cut a strip of sheetmetal and bond it to the back of it overlaping the ends of the gap, that would stifen it up enough to survive a car door as well I'd think.
1320stang
Founding Member
Hey, I've been to car shows where idiots that buy cars instead of build them have done worse, backing into other cars, bending a bumper back trying to squeeze out of a spot without a spotter.
How about this senerio, Joe Blow leans over the fender to gander down into the engine bay and knee's it in standing back up?
BTW, I need a '67 coupe, a rolling shell with no front clip or decklid would work. Be nice to have doors and glass. Doesn't have to have a title, wanting to build a black satin primered 390/C6 car on NOS to play with at the strip. Might even get a wild hair to build a twin turbo'd 352/C6 and use that fandancy MegaSquirt setup on it. You got anything cheap that would work? Don't need bumpers or valances, I've got a front clip and decklid and I have a '57 Ranchero 9" to go in it.
How about this senerio, Joe Blow leans over the fender to gander down into the engine bay and knee's it in standing back up?
BTW, I need a '67 coupe, a rolling shell with no front clip or decklid would work. Be nice to have doors and glass. Doesn't have to have a title, wanting to build a black satin primered 390/C6 car on NOS to play with at the strip. Might even get a wild hair to build a twin turbo'd 352/C6 and use that fandancy MegaSquirt setup on it. You got anything cheap that would work? Don't need bumpers or valances, I've got a front clip and decklid and I have a '57 Ranchero 9" to go in it.
krash kendall
Active Member
I think there will be rooster tails of oily road grime on the fenders behind those extractors if a rain shower happens upon you.
That prop looks like a disservice for a car like yours, why don't you try some lifts instead?
http://www.redlinetuning.com/QL-FORD-MUS-9904.html
http://www.redlinetuning.com/QL-FORD-MUS-9904.html
Attachments
i have been checkin out the detail pics more and more the last week or so.. (even got the donor body sqaured up on the frame table ready for cutting)
i plan on doing a few things different.... like 65 core support/tops of the inner fenders grafted in. but my main question for the day relates to the coilover struts.
i see all the extra bracing.... and i think its a great start, but are you planning on running a tower brace? i really dont think you plan on abusing yours, like i do mine... but i see the tower flexing in and out as a weak spot.
i also stumbled across some steel flairs that fit the look and give the extra clearance..... but i aint gonna release the source till i know for sure if they are gonna work.
i will start posting pics as soon as i actually get something acomplished
i plan on doing a few things different.... like 65 core support/tops of the inner fenders grafted in. but my main question for the day relates to the coilover struts.
i see all the extra bracing.... and i think its a great start, but are you planning on running a tower brace? i really dont think you plan on abusing yours, like i do mine... but i see the tower flexing in and out as a weak spot.
i also stumbled across some steel flairs that fit the look and give the extra clearance..... but i aint gonna release the source till i know for sure if they are gonna work.
i will start posting pics as soon as i actually get something acomplished
Hi KK,krash kendall said:
Never really gave that thought much consideration. We will have screens to catch any debris. I guess we can baffle the inside to block the direct line of fire from the tire.
Thanks for the heads up.
Hi B,BullittFB said:
Right now, we are going to stick with the prop rod. I kind of like prop rods. I removed the springs from my 65 daily driver and installed a prop rod. Maybe it is some kind of weird childhood flashback or something.
Also, there is not enough clarance between the hood and the fender. We would have to install them in a place that would make tham look like an afterthought.
Hi RR,race-rodz said:i have been checkin out the detail pics more and more the last week or so.. (even got the donor body sqaured up on the frame table ready for cutting)
i plan on doing a few things different.... like 65 core support/tops of the inner fenders grafted in. but my main question for the day relates to the coilover struts.
i see all the extra bracing.... and i think its a great start, but are you planning on running a tower brace? i really dont think you plan on abusing yours, like i do mine... but i see the tower flexing in and out as a weak spot.
i also stumbled across some steel flairs that fit the look and give the extra clearance..... but i aint gonna release the source till i know for sure if they are gonna work.
i will start posting pics as soon as i actually get something acomplished
Good luck with your project. I will be happy to help in any way I can.
As far as a tower brace goes, yes we are going to install one. We need to get everything installed before we can fit it up.
As far as deflection is concerned, there is a minimal amount as far as we can tell right now. If we measure the dictance between the shock towers with all the weight on the suspension, and then lift the car letting the wheels hang, we get about 1/16" of deflection. I really don't know what happens on a "stock" setup, but I am guessing that it is more than 1/16".
I look forward to seeing your photos.
1320stang
Founding Member
race-rodz said:i also stumbled across some steel flairs that fit the look and give the extra clearance..... but i aint gonna release the source till i know for sure if they are gonna work.
i will start posting pics as soon as i actually get something acomplished
Man, that seems like a dis-service.
You're getting ideas from Bob's work, yet you don't want to give up a source that might do him some good? You don't have to tell us all, a PM or and email to him would do. Chances are he wouldn't use them as they are closer to being ready for paint, than to back track by working with the steel, although in my opinion, steel would be a better choice. Besides, if he did use them, he might save you some time by laying out the steps he needed to do to install them.well i didnt figure bob would be interested, as ya stated his are about ready for paint.
but since i am such a nice guy... i will share my secret..... early chevy astro vans have a full 180* steel flair that is close in dimensions and shape.... "should" be workable to the qtrs and fenders, and they are plentifull in wrecking yards.
i have always had good luck with bonding glass to steel... but steel/steel is way better IMO.
but since i am such a nice guy... i will share my secret..... early chevy astro vans have a full 180* steel flair that is close in dimensions and shape.... "should" be workable to the qtrs and fenders, and they are plentifull in wrecking yards.
i have always had good luck with bonding glass to steel... but steel/steel is way better IMO.
Hi All,
Just talked to Chuck at Maximum Motorsports. They are helping with all the suspension details and setup. They have helped me resolve a number of issues throughout the project and they just helped pull my a$$ out of the fire again....
I modified the caster camber plate arrangement for clearance and ran the idea past them (of course after I had already made the modification). It seamed like a simple mod straight forward to me. They said that they would run it past engineering and get back to me.
Well, they called back just after I left for the day. Wayne said that they wanted me to call them back ASAP.
I called them back the next morning and Chuck told me not to drive the car as altered. Our simple little modification has reduced the strength of the plate assembly by approx 90%. One little bump in the road and BAM the strut will come right through the hood. He said that the engineer actually came running into his office with the calcs. "The modified plates may not even support the weight of the car just sitting there" he said.
I went over all the details with them and they came up with a "safe" workable solution to my clearance issue.
Thanks MM for saving my butt again.
Just talked to Chuck at Maximum Motorsports. They are helping with all the suspension details and setup. They have helped me resolve a number of issues throughout the project and they just helped pull my a$$ out of the fire again....
I modified the caster camber plate arrangement for clearance and ran the idea past them (of course after I had already made the modification). It seamed like a simple mod straight forward to me. They said that they would run it past engineering and get back to me.
Well, they called back just after I left for the day. Wayne said that they wanted me to call them back ASAP.
I called them back the next morning and Chuck told me not to drive the car as altered. Our simple little modification has reduced the strength of the plate assembly by approx 90%. One little bump in the road and BAM the strut will come right through the hood. He said that the engineer actually came running into his office with the calcs. "The modified plates may not even support the weight of the car just sitting there" he said.
I went over all the details with them and they came up with a "safe" workable solution to my clearance issue.
Thanks MM for saving my butt again.
Man that's scary. Good thing you shared your design with MM.
1320stang
Founding Member
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