Progress Thread Therapy Car-- Freshening Up the Lower Intake

I run a stalker front bumper on my car as well, and it is not split like that. I would have to assume that someone modified your bumper as they were probably trying to get around some of the alignment issues with this bumper.
 
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The interior is out. Now I'll start prepping to weld up cracks and weld the torque box reinforcements in. Family is coming in this afternoon. My slow progress is about to get really slow for a few days. LOL On second thought. My brother-in-law is a welder. :chin

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I know many people like the propane torch and scraper to loosen that sound deadener, but I had some good results with a heat gun in the spots I needed to remove. Just a thought.
 
I have a heat gun somewhere.... and I have a propane torch. My plan is to just remove the material that has to be removed in order to weld the plates in. I only plan to weld the cracks from the bottom, so I am not planning on trying to scrape the material above them. Thoughts?

My only fear is that the material above will melt and contaminate the weld.
 
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I have a heat gun somewhere.... and I have a propane torch. My plan is to just remove the material that has to be removed in order to weld the plates in. I only plan to weld the cracks from the bottom, so I am not planning on trying to scrape the material above them. Thoughts?

My only fear is that the material above will melt and contaminate the weld.

I only needed specific spots removed. Although I never used the propane, I feel like the heat gun and a painters 5 in 1 tool gave me good control. I scored the are with a razor that I wanted to remove, so as I scraped, it stopped at the score mark.

All that being said, my somewhat OCD may get the best of me, and I may tear it all out, POR15 the entire pan, and go in with dynamat. We’ll see what the winter brings!
 
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If I'm not planning on making monster hp is it worth it to upgrade to 31 spline axles? I know if I upgrade the axles I'd also have to upgrade the chunk, but I dont want to buy axles twice.

Say I did get the car up over 500hp someday I dont have any plans to race it. That just isn't my thing.
 
If I'm not planning on making monster hp is it worth it to upgrade to 31 spline axles? I know if I upgrade the axles I'd also have to upgrade the chunk, but I dont want to buy axles twice.

Say I did get the car up over 500hp someday I dont have any plans to race it. That just isn't my thing.
No. You can over build anything but if you aren't using it then you are wasting money. Sure someone will come in and say it never hurts to have it just in case. But that's not the question. Not gonna race it = not necessary.
 
If I'm not planning on making monster hp is it worth it to upgrade to 31 spline axles? I know if I upgrade the axles
I'd also have to upgrade the chunk,
but I dont want to buy axles twice.

Say I did get the car up over 500hp someday I dont have any plans to race it. That just isn't my thing.

PLEASE.....FOR THE LOVE OFGOD!!!!

It's not a "chunk"

A "chunk" is redneck for the removable center section/gear carrier of a 9" rear. You have an 8.8 there is no removable chunk.

A chunk is what you blow out on the road when you put drag slicks on a car with a T-5/7.5" axle, put it on a drag strip, rev a 500ft lb engine to 5 grand, and dump the clutch.

Somewhere there's gonna be a chunk of something surrounded by oily googe, that used to spin, in something that used to be inside, that's now on the outside, on the road.
 
You can buy aftermarket 28 spline axles
and just what does mike have against rednecks?
not that I am one but I do live in what can be called the redneck capital of the world.
that said, most that claim that title around here have never taken their loud exhausted, jacked up with bucky beaver ground gripper tires have not been any farther 'off road' than the ditch at the end of a slow curve.
 
Got the exhaust off and am getting ready for the torque boxes.
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The torch and a scraper made short work of the sound deadening material. This is on the passenger side.

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Just test fitting the reinforcements and I quickly noticed this plug that had to come out. I dont remember seeing it in the House of Dula video I watched of him installing this kit. There is one on the other side as well.


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I tried to test fit the lower reinforcements that mount in the torque box. I cant get either one to line up with the hole for the lower control arm bolt. Is this normal?

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Did you try swapping reinforcements from side to side ? Doesn't look like your boxes are damaged. Ive had fo clearance holes on torque box reinforcements before. I would think after all these years they would have it spot on already.
 
I installed the lower reinforcements that I purchased from Wild Rides and the holes lined up nicely.I'm sure there are quite a few manufactures of these and all vary in fitment,and as we know these cars aren't built to exacting tolerances.
Here's a unknown pic from LMR 's website that shows the opposite of the posters issue.
Just open the hole up in the plates until the bolt goes through,you'll be fine.
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Got to ratchet jawing on the phone last night, so didn't do much. I did get one of the new springs on and the strut.
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The lift made this soooooo much easier. As for shiny..... I live down a freaking gravel road. All the shiny will not last. It was so nasty though, and once I started cleaning one thing it looked so much better I just kept going. For now it does look a lot better. Eventually it will get paint and I'll be one of those people that parks waaaaay out in the parking lot. Thats if I go somewhere with it that has a big parking lot. No need to tempt fate by driving your shiny toy to Wally-World, and just beg for people to run carts into your :poo:

I knew a guy once that would intentionally park as close as he possibly could to a car that was clearly parked away from everything else to protect it. It was a total d-bag thing to do in my opinion. As least he parked on the passenger side of the offending car so the person could at least get into their car.
I’m in the same situation as you.
Wife and I I like our cars clean. But live in the country with horses and 1/2mi gravel fire road to get home.
I was just telling friend of mine (who has all of his race/ hot rods still in primer ) about the nice paint/body work I’m planning on getting
He was trying to convince me to wait till EVERYTHING is completed and I’m TOTALLY happy with the car.
Only at that time possibly get a nice driver paint job but don’t go for expensive show job.
I was arguing back about how nice I want the paint to be.
During one of my arguing statements I turned around with one of my fenders in hand and smacked a good dent in rear quarter panel
After appropriate words I agreed he was right.
Super nice paint would take the fun out of my car, at least in it’s creation and modifying stage.
I just want this to be my stress RELIEF car.
someday though....entire car striped down, powder coated then decent “drivers paint job”

On another note:
Your progress is definitely inspiring
...I’ve had my car on jack stands for 23 years
 
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Apparently like so many on here I love to do things two or three times. I got the lower torque box reinforcements installed and then realized "Hey, I should probably paint the supports that go under the car because they are just bare metal." So I'm taking them back out to paint.

I am painting the other parts though. The inner panels are getting weld through primer. The other bits are being painted with Chassis Black.

I've been playing with my new welder. I'm not a good welder lol. I'll keep messing with it, but I've decided to have the cracks in the floor pan, torque box plates, and subframe connectors professionally welded in. There is a local shop here that specializes in Fox Bodies. I'm going to give them a call to get pricing and line things up.

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Started trying to get the holes drilled for the upper reinforcements last night. Supper easy to drill the first one that goes through the top plate with the predrilled slots. Also immediately showed me that I needed to remove a lot more sound deadening material. I completely missed where it went. No big deal.

I'm using a 15/32 drill bit for the upper two holes. It's pretty long but not really long enough to drill the second hole, or not in a way that I feel good about. Right now the lower bracket pushes on the drill putting it an angle. I'm not sure if it will line up with the slot in the plate. I'm going to shop around and see if I can find a longer drill to get the job done.

If I'm missing something feel free to chime in. It wouldn't be the first time I was missing the obvious or over thinking something.

Figuring out how to tighten these bolts with no help is going to be interesting. I'm hoping I can wedge my wrench against something and hold it with a magnet while I tighten it from inside the car. I could ask the wife for help, but that never goes well.

I also noticed on the few video I've watched of people doing this job they either gloss over the installation of the upper plates or they don't install them.

What gauge steel should I use to box the rear upper control arms? Does boxing them make that much of a difference? I have to take them back off so this is the perfect time to have it done if I'm going to do it.
 
I got the upper torque box holes drilled through the floor pan last night on the drivers side. I still need to drill the holes through the actual plate though. Any advice on the best way to do that? It flexes out and the drill is hitting it at an angle. It's marked where the drill hit it so I guess I could take it off and drill the holes where the marks are.

I brought my upper control arm to work today so that one of the guys can weld the plate in.

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