Progress Thread Therapy Car-- Freshening Up the Lower Intake
- Thread starter Olivethefet
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I'm going to try to pull them out. The instructions say to tack weld it in four spots where is passes through the actual transmission support. So a total of 8 welds on each side. If I cant get the bushing out I plan on tacking one spot then going to the other side. Back and forth side to side so that it doesn't get to hot. I can also let it cool a lot between welds. I'm not in a hurry.
The stuff from LMR finally showed up!
Maybe I'll get the tail shaft housing back on this weekend. That would be good. Any words of wisdom on putting in the new tail shaft bushing? I'm going to use a piece of wood and a large socket to get it in, but I believe it needs to be orientated a certain way so that the oil flows back into the housing. I've seen a video on TubeYou, so I'll look that back up. The new bushing is a much better quality than the other one that I got. It's also thicker than the one that I took out of the car. I thought the old one didn't look bad, but now I'm guessing it was worn thin.
In other news the new transmission cross-member came in yesterday as well! Good thing I have the welder now as I didn't really fully appreciate what "adjustable" meant. The cross member is not welded to the tubes that the mounting bushings and bolts go through. You put it up on your car. Put it where it needs to be and weld it in place.
Any opinions on leaving the rubber bushings in or swapping them out for the poly bushings that I have? The one already on it look good and I think they are going to be a bear to get out.
I’ll try to locate it, but I’m pretty sure there was a post where Wayne Waldrep said that he has had luck just bolting them in without ever welding the tubes.
thinking about it, once it’s bolted to the chassis as well as the transmission, there’s really nowhere for it to go.
However, in my case, I would always feel it just wasn’t right, and would have to weld it.
found it - post 22 of this thread
Whats this? Next to the torque box. Looks like 2 replaceable pieces
www.stangnet.com
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I'll probably weld them once I get to that point, but it's nice knowing that Wayne has had good luck not welding them.
Just ordered the new upper and lower rear control arms. MM extreme lower and stock style upper. I think I might try boxing the uppers like I've seen done on here.
I wish LMR would throw in a sicker or hat or something every once in a while. JEGGS and other sites used to do that. I dont know if they still do. Hell I even like the cheesy magnets that come in the box when you buy stuff from Rock Auto.
Just ordered the new upper and lower rear control arms. MM extreme lower and stock style upper. I think I might try boxing the uppers like I've seen done on here.
I wish LMR would throw in a sicker or hat or something every once in a while. JEGGS and other sites used to do that. I dont know if they still do. Hell I even like the cheesy magnets that come in the box when you buy stuff from Rock Auto.
I got the new tail shaft bushing in but I have a question about the seal. It has a hole through it where it covers the yoke. Is this normal and if so where should it be oriented?
The guy at the parts store said it went up to allow fluid to get out if you over fill the transmission. 
I can rationalize either direction. The old seal didnt have one.
I got the driveshaft cleaned up today. I'm going to prime and paint it tonight. Prim at the very least.
It's not perfectly clean, but it's a driveshaft!
I can rationalize either direction. The old seal didnt have one.I got the driveshaft cleaned up today. I'm going to prime and paint it tonight. Prim at the very least.
It's not perfectly clean, but it's a driveshaft!
You should clear that after getting it that clean.The guy at the parts store said it went up to allow fluid to get out if you over fill the transmission.
I got the driveshaft cleaned up today. I'm going to prime and paint it tonight. Prim at the very least.
It's not perfectly clean, but it's a driveshaft!
I primed it and painted it black. I did think about just doing it in clear.
I got the axle all finished up last night and ready to go back on the car when I'm ready.
By the way. For anyone installing a tail shaft housing rear seal. If you happen to have a Ford 4X4 spindle nut removal socket laying around it works perfect for driving it into the housing!
I also went ahead and popped the cover off the differential. There was a little bit of milky oil that came out when I cracked the cover, but other than that the oil looked good and didn't smell bad. I plan on pulling the axles and installing new bearings. I already have the bearings, so this is a good time to do it. I've never pulled the axles on a limited slip before, so I've got a little homework ahead of me.
One last thing. This is where the right exhaust pipe is rubbing on the cover for the gas tank. I'm sure that is doing wonders for the fuel in there! Ill have to try to get the exhaust away from that spot when I put everything back together.
By the way. For anyone installing a tail shaft housing rear seal. If you happen to have a Ford 4X4 spindle nut removal socket laying around it works perfect for driving it into the housing!
I also went ahead and popped the cover off the differential. There was a little bit of milky oil that came out when I cracked the cover, but other than that the oil looked good and didn't smell bad. I plan on pulling the axles and installing new bearings. I already have the bearings, so this is a good time to do it. I've never pulled the axles on a limited slip before, so I've got a little homework ahead of me.
One last thing. This is where the right exhaust pipe is rubbing on the cover for the gas tank. I'm sure that is doing wonders for the fuel in there! Ill have to try to get the exhaust away from that spot when I put everything back together.
Eric the car guy to the rescue!!
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Plvg0NTLraA
He does really good video. Nothing new here for most of you, but someone might learn something from watching the video.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Plvg0NTLraA
He does really good video. Nothing new here for most of you, but someone might learn something from watching the video.
- Mar 2, 2015
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Pulling axles is really easy once you get to that point. Remove the drums, remove the pin....little 5/16 bolt holding the pin in, I use a magnet and pull the pin out, push axle in towards rear, use magnet to pull c clips, carefully pull axle out supporting its weight to not mar the seal. Easy peasy.
@90sickfox Thanks for the pointers! The video made it look pretty easy. I'll be putting new seals in as well. I got the drums off and the right side was a pain to get off again. I'm not sure what the drum is hanging on but it really makes it hard to take off.
If I don't rebuild the chunk at this time do I need to add friction modifier to the new oil?
If I don't rebuild the chunk at this time do I need to add friction modifier to the new oil?
- Jul 7, 2005
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Yes, you need to add the friction modifier anytime you replace the gear oil. This is used for the clutches in the trac-lok to operate correctly.
The axles are out!
I have to say that it was really easy. Getting the wheel bearings out will most likely be a bit more of a pain. In the Ericthecarguy video the bearings and seals were two separate pieces. The new bearing that I have is all one piece. Did I get the wrong part?
These came from Rock Auto and are Timken brand.
@2Blue2 The bushings came off of the new cross member, so no worries about heat from welding.
I have to say that it was really easy. Getting the wheel bearings out will most likely be a bit more of a pain. In the Ericthecarguy video the bearings and seals were two separate pieces. The new bearing that I have is all one piece. Did I get the wrong part?
These came from Rock Auto and are Timken brand.
@2Blue2 The bushings came off of the new cross member, so no worries about heat from welding.
I got the old wheel bearings out last night with not much trouble. I got one of the new bearings, tried to put it in, and it wont fit. 
I ordered them from Rock Auto about a year ago, so they are my shiny new paperweights now. I looked up the specs and the O.D. is 2.295. I looked up new wheel bearings on LMR's site and the O.D. of the bearings they sell are 2.256. That isn't a huge difference, but I'm not going to try to squeeze the bigger bearing in there. I guess I'll be ordering new bearings today.
I ordered them from Rock Auto about a year ago, so they are my shiny new paperweights now. I looked up the specs and the O.D. is 2.295. I looked up new wheel bearings on LMR's site and the O.D. of the bearings they sell are 2.256. That isn't a huge difference, but I'm not going to try to squeeze the bigger bearing in there. I guess I'll be ordering new bearings today.
- Mar 2, 2015
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Those look like c clip eliminator bearings and seals.
They should look like this....
C clip eliminators get rid of those c clips that hold the axles in. Keeps the axles from sliding out if they break at the track.
I'm a fan of the eliminators even on stock cars. Best to use brand new axles with them.
Getting the old bearings out is a bit of a pain. You need a slide hammer with a bearing puller attachment. It slides in the middle and locks behind it. This is 30 bucks from harbor frieght. You'll need a slide hammer too. It's about 80 for the set but comes in handy.
Could also get one from advance auto or autozone as a tool loaner.....then it would be free as long as you take it back.
They should look like this....
C clip eliminators get rid of those c clips that hold the axles in. Keeps the axles from sliding out if they break at the track.
I'm a fan of the eliminators even on stock cars. Best to use brand new axles with them.
Getting the old bearings out is a bit of a pain. You need a slide hammer with a bearing puller attachment. It slides in the middle and locks behind it. This is 30 bucks from harbor frieght. You'll need a slide hammer too. It's about 80 for the set but comes in handy.
Could also get one from advance auto or autozone as a tool loaner.....then it would be free as long as you take it back.
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