Things I need to remember or do before starting car up (after H/C/I swap) tomorrow?

thats cool, i do have a dremel if i need it. Thanks for the advice.

I talked to a trickflow tech and he advised me with twisted wedge heads that i can run the stage 2 without clearnence problems with stock reliefs. And if i do have problems to retard the cam a couple degrees. I guess i can also do a little dremel work too huh?

This is on a 351 though.

Try this on your lower intake. Go to the hardware store and buy 4 bolts the same size/length as your lower intake bolts. Cut the heads off - and use them as dowels. Screw them into the 4 corners - they will hold your gaskets in place, and allow you to perfectly drop the lower in place without moving the gaskets. ONce in place, start 3 or 4 of the other bolts, then remove your temporary dowels, and put the rest of the bolts in. Once again - check to see if antifreeze got in the oil through the lifter galley - if so, you've got oil change issues again before you crank it up. I always buy 5 or 10 qts. of inexpensive regular dino oil and a few filters for this purpose - drain, put the fresh stuff in; after start up and few heat cycles, drain again and put the good stuff in.

I always prime the oil pump first with a drill before starting a new engine. You can turn the engine over by hand as well. Breaker bar on the crank pulley etc to see if the pistons will hit the valve without actually starting the engine. I know you already started it but for others to know. I fly cut the pistons at the machine shop to clear the valves. The head or piston makers will know if you can clear. Also there are engine formulas I used when i worked at a machine shop that figured if there was enough clearance by inputing comp ratio, head gasket size, deck height etc etc. If you have a few values you can figure the rest. Do not remember the name of the software. Works for CR, PV, and others. I change the oil after 100 miles of break in driving. Gets all the assembly lube etc out. Good luck.

Theres no way you'll have p-v problems with those dss tw pistons and a stage 2 cam. I ran a .576 cam straight up with 240 248 with no problems.

Yes, notching can be done at home...done it a couple times with an air grinder. Just BE CAREFULL not to nick the cylinder wall/lip or to take to much out of the piston.