thinking about suspension upgrades

[Green&GoldGT]

After dropping the K member to install the long tubes, I'm gonna need an alignment. But before I do that I was thinking about upgrading suspension parts. Right now I have steeda lowering springs in the front and eibach drag springs in the rear. I like the raked look(low in the front and high in the back), but I don't want to be scraping the headers. I want more of a drag setup. I'm leaning toward lakewood drag struts(90/10s preferrably or 70/30s) and my options for front springs are keeping what I have, 4 cyl fox springs, or drag springs. Another option is rear drag shocks. This is mainly for DD and 4 hour trips back home sometimes. I'm worried about the drag struts and shocks having too much heat and stress from DD.
Thanks for any input.

 

[blacksheep-1]

http://agentfortyseven.com/home.html
http://www.granatellimotorsports.com/
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/
http://www.strangeengineering.net/catalog/index.html
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/
http://www.griggsracing.com/
http://steeda.com/
here's some resources, but after you check out the video on the Griggs sight you may never go drag racing again.
IMO you have a couple of issues, the "rake" look is something guys do to get rear tire clearance, it is totally detrimental to the car's handling and launching, the mustangs have way too much weight on the nose as it is. The 90/10 or 70/30's really aren't compatible with a daily driver, it can be done (I had a car once with a 331, 2-4bbl, 4speed and 5.13s) I drove it on the street but it was a PITA. Those 4 hour trips and a competition (either road race or drag) suspension will make it seem like 8.

 

[Green&GoldGT]

I'm concerned about if I installed lakewood drag struts like 90/10s and drove a 4 hour roadtrip if they would fail on me. I remember hotmustang331's drag strut failure which were tokicos. I've heard that drag struts get hot and fail during daily driving. so would that happen during a 4 hr trip?

Also has anyone heard of SPC caster camber bolts that bolt to the bottom of the strut to correct alignment. I was planning on using these instead of C/C plates.