thinking of cutting springs, any help!?!?

[MBGT02]

hey guys i have a 2002 mustang Gt, these springs have been on the car for about 3 1/2 months now. BBK Performance 2501 - BBK Gripp Lowering Coil Springs - Overview - SummitRacing.com

They were suppose to lower my car about 1.5''.. however it still looks pretty stock. So i was wondering are those the type of springs that you can cut? I know theres a type that will like fall apart i heard and then theres a type that will be okay. I'm only looking to go another inch. Any ideas? I have already tooken out the back isolators and it hasnt seemed to do anything. The front sits a lower then the back but would still like to take it down an inch all the way around! Thanks for any input!

 

[wmburns]

I'm going to go out on a limb and say that the springs were not installed correctly. I suspect suspension "wind-up" as the cause of your issue.

Did you allow the FULL weight of the car to rest upon the springs before tightening the suspension components? If not, all of the suspension components have been biased in one direction and that is what is preventing your car from riding at the correct height. The effect is called "suspension wind-up".

If allowed to continue, it will quickly wear out the suspension bushings and other suspension components.

 

[MBGT02]

I mean it has def lowered it, however i just want more.. it is noticable how it lowered... I installed them my self so do you think i should loosen the back shocks then let it off the jack and then tighten them?

 

[trinity_gt]

Did you allow the FULL weight of the car to rest upon the springs before tighting the suspension components?

OP?

Did you get the weight of the car on the wheels before tightening the control arm fasteners?

 

[wmburns]

The correct way to do it is to allow the FULL weight of the car rest on the axle. Loosen the lower control arm bolts and upper control arm bolts and allow the car to settle to it's new ride height. This will also ensure that just the springs are supporting the car's full weight.

If you did not loosen the LCA and UCA bolts, then the bushings have been wound up and are partially supporting the car's weight.

 

[Stumbaugh]

I didnt touch my upper or lower control arm's when I lowered my car, and it did just perfect when I let it off the jack stands and I drove like that for 15,000 miles before taking the control arms out to replace them with UPR control arms. Bushings looks just fine when I took them out. That's the first time I have ever heard of that.

 

[trinity_gt]

I didnt touch my upper or lower control arm's when I lowered my car, and it did just perfect when I let it off the jack stands and I drove like that for 15,000 miles before taking the control arms out to replace them with UPR control arms. Bushings looks just fine when I took them out. That's the first time I have ever heard of that.

The bushings are essentially fixed in the arm (and axle housing in the case of the rear axle uppers). The sleeve that runs through them is bonded to the rubber and when the bolt is tightened the sleeve cannot move. Thus, as the suspension moves through its range of travel, the rubber twists.

With the bolts tightened at ride height, the bushings are "neutral" -- not twisted in either direction. However, if the bolts are tightened with the suspension at full droop (e.g.), the bushings are locked at that position. When the car is loaded to ride height, the bushings are wound-up or "preloaded" and act as little torsion bars, partially holding the weight of the car. If you lower the car only an inch or two and don't loosen the bolts it's not a big effect but done improperly -- like tightening the bolts at full droop, the bushings can get all bunged up.

As well, if the bolts are tightened at droop, what happens when the suspension is compressed fully? The bushings can be twisted so far that they can actually tear, leading to looseness and noise in the suspension.

 

[Hair_EE_Ballz]

Well, If you want them LOW, then you will have to cut them. Be ready for a rigid ride though. You can rent a electric cutter from a home improvement store, like Lowe's, They usually have a Rental place. I still have a set of front INTRAX springs with one coil cut. My most recent mustang sits low enough. But there only front, u will have to still worry about the back. Always cut the next coil right below the cut on the upper (Duh). Just makin sure. PM if your interested. I don't think they sell Intrax anymore, i could be wrong(Their Purple)

 

[txredgt]

Yall are worrying me with all of this talk... I just changed suspension parts on mine, went to C springs which is a 1" drop. How can you tighten everything down with the wheels on it? Some stuff has to be done and can't be reached with the wheels on.. The car just got back from the alignment shop so obviously the CC bolts had the weight on it but what about the strut top nut? Or the shocks in the rear? Would it be worth loosening everything since I just got it aligned?

 

[wmburns]

From your questions I get the sense that you do not understand the root of the problem.

Note, we asked if the full weight of the car was resting on the "suspension" (not the wheels). Consider for the rear, all that has to be done is support the car on axle stands.

Further, this issue applies to the suspension parts with "bushings". That does not mean shocks, struts, CC plates, and such.

So for the rear, support the car on axle stands. Loosen the through bolts for the lower control arms and the uppper control arms. Let the car settle. Torque to spec. Done.

For the front, put a floor jack under the lower control arm. Jack it up until the car barely lifts up. At this point, the car's weight is now being supported by the front suspension. Torque to spec. Done.

 

[txredgt]

From your questions I get the sense that you do not understand the root of the problem.

Note, we asked if the full weight of the car was resting on the "suspension" (not the wheels). Consider for the rear, all that has to be done is support the car on axle stands.

Further, this issue applies to the suspension parts with "bushings". That does not mean shocks, struts, CC plates, and such.

So for the rear, support the car on axle stands. Loosen the through bolts for the lower control arms and the uppper control arms. Let the car settle. Torque to spec. Done.

For the front, put a floor jack under the lower control arm. Jack it up until the car barely lifts up. At this point, the car's weight is now being supported by the front suspension. Torque to spec. Done.

Awesome, good deal. You and Trinity are 2 of the best go-to guys on here for knowledge. I'm just glad I don't have to go through it all again and that I got it right the 1st time. Thanks.