Those with mechanical gauges

94_Teal_GT

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Aug 14, 2002

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Palm Bay, FL

Apr 15, 2005

#1

• Apr 15, 2005

• #1

Where did you run the water temp sender? Is there a good spot to drill through the firewall? Or is there another option(besides buying electrical gauges).

 

RIO5.0

15 Year Member

Feb 16, 2001

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Apr 15, 2005

#2

• Apr 15, 2005

• #2

Look to Right/lower side of your brake booster, youll see a 2.5" or so rubber grommet in the firewall....just peel an edge back and slit it some with a razor...you can feed all your wiring and such thru that...just roll it back into postion when done...
You can see my wiring, oil pressure line and I ran the temp sending unit thru it..plenty of space..

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

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Apr 15, 2005

#3

• Apr 15, 2005

• #3

on mine, there was a big grommet above the gas pedal that had nothing in it.

sender went through there.

good luck.

 

94_Teal_GT

Founding Member

Aug 14, 2002

405

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Palm Bay, FL

Apr 16, 2005

#4

• Apr 16, 2005

• #4

HISSIN50 said:

on mine, there was a big grommet above the gas pedal that had nothing in it.

sender went through there.

good luck.

Click to expand...

Is your car an automatic by chance? The only thing visible in that area on mine is where the cable runs through the firewall...

RIO5.0 I'll give that spot a try, I'm not sure if there is enough line on the water temp sender to reach the spot I'm trying to mount them(under the factory radio). It looks like that even if that doesn't work I can tuck the grommet back w/o too much trouble...Thanks

 

RIO5.0

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Feb 16, 2001

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Apr 16, 2005

#5

• Apr 16, 2005

• #5

I had plenty of excess line as I ran my gage to the steering column....You might wanna look at boring a 1/2 dia hole sorta behing the upper to snake it thru??? That way you can hide the line by tucking it along the lower intake...

 

94_Teal_GT

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Aug 14, 2002

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Palm Bay, FL

Apr 16, 2005

#6

• Apr 16, 2005

• #6

RIO5.0 said:

I had plenty of excess line as I ran my gage to the steering column....You might wanna look at boring a 1/2 dia hole sorta behing the upper to snake it thru??? That way you can hide the line by tucking it along the lower intake...

Click to expand...

That looks sharp! I'll take some measurements, hiding it isn't really a priority, since the sensor tube is wrapped in black plastic sleeve, it looks sorta factory already. I didn't want to drill the firewall since I'm not sure what wiring is behind that area of the upper intake....I'm a bit too tall to get under the dash that far, to get a good look... I'd be more interested in hiding the oil filled line... but I think I've got plenty of extra.....One more question, where did you route the oil line on the block end? It says to keep it away from the exhaust, so I was thinking of running it up sorta between the p/s pump and the valve cove then along the valve cover topr, or maybe straight out toward the fenderwell, then run it up with the wiring there....

 

HISSIN50

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Nov 29, 1999

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Apr 16, 2005

#7

• Apr 16, 2005

• #7

94_Teal_GT said:

Is your car an automatic by chance? The only thing visible in that area on mine is where the cable runs through the firewall...

Click to expand...

A+. i did not think about it - that is where the clutch cable would go.

I am liking Andy's idea about a new hole for the sender. I had a pretty straight shot (using the clutch cable hole) with my mech temp gauge (6' capillary tube) and i had to mount it on the lowest pod (triple A pillar pod) to get it to reach the stock sender location (and i had 1/10" to spare). i know exactly the harness grommet Andy is talking about and that is a good bit out of the way - I am not sure you would have enough 'reach'. i have not measured or anything - just my conjecture. As usual, Andy's idea sounds real good.

good luck.

 

RIO5.0

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Feb 16, 2001

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Apr 16, 2005

#8

• Apr 16, 2005

• #8

I made a Tee for the oil line so the stock gage worked....couldn't stand looking at it dead....you have like 8' of line for the oil feed....i ran mine along the lower radiator hose/AC compressor area to the fenderwell with a tie here or there....theres plenty of holes you can feed zip-ties through to secure it....you wont be anywhere near the headers you have so much line...
start outside and secure it as you route it...then cut/plumb the gage...

 

HISSIN50

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Apr 16, 2005

#9

• Apr 16, 2005

• #9

as a quick aside, sometimes i will use vacuum line as a sheath around the nylon line. helps keep things from chafing, melting, etc through the nylon line.

 

94_Teal_GT

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Palm Bay, FL

Apr 17, 2005

#10

• Apr 17, 2005

• #10

Thanks guys. I didn't get them installed this weekend. It's looking like I'll be drilling that hole after all, it doesn't look like I'll have enough to run that long route I have to pick up some grommets and such, and possibly a larger drill bit...The instructions say to drill a 7/8" hole for the temp gauge!!! I guess that's to clear the fitting that is already on the top of the sender. I've installed this type gauge before and it always says not to remove the sending unit from the gauge. I don't think I need a 7/8 hole though(the widest part of the fitting is less than 3/4. I'll figure it out, probably next weekend, as this one was shortened, due to work.

 

HISSIN50

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Nov 29, 1999

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Apr 17, 2005

#11

• Apr 17, 2005

• #11

gotcha. sometimes when calculating length, i will use a piece of string or 22 gauge wire to trace the path i want - then remove the string/wire and measure.

most mech temp gauge senders are very bulbous. a step drill bit might work well for ripping a hole that big. like you said, dont remove or mess with the capillary tube. as i recall, there is ether in there.

good luck. (BTW, we will wait for Andy's good thoughts now. ).

 

RIO5.0

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Feb 16, 2001

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Apr 17, 2005

#12

• Apr 17, 2005

• #12

Well that blows...Yor right though, my 1/2" hole ain't gonna cut it...forgot how big that nut is...
If you dont have access from the inside it might be less frustrating to get an upper intake gasket and pull it...that way youll be right there and save the frustration. Not alot of run to access the firewall with a drill...
The Uni-Bit he mentioned works the balls, they're expensive but worth every cent...I installed a Steeda G Trac K member brace tonight and had to use mine..the cut through stuff like butter, specially a fire wall...

HISSIN50....Thanks for the vote of confidence...

 

94_Teal_GT

Founding Member

Aug 14, 2002

405

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Palm Bay, FL

Apr 18, 2005

#13

• Apr 18, 2005

• #13

Thanks to both of you. Ether, hmm, I didn't know exactly what is in the line, so now I know not to touch it. Using vacuum line to hide/protect the oil line is a great idea, as is the Uni-bit. My only issue regarding drilling from the outside was possibly hitting some wiring inside but a step bit may be just the ticket.

I'll have to do some looking around, we may have some of those bits around the shop. Have to see if I can borrow one for the weekend.