Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

04GT

New Member

Oct 8, 2003

284

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Southwest Ohio

Aug 31, 2005

#1

• Aug 31, 2005

• #1

Anybody replaced one of these on newer GT (like '02-'04)?

I've read alot of posts that talk about calibrating it by loosening screws and rotating it. But, my Haynes manual just says remove the connector, remove screws, remove sensor and then install new one in reverse order.

Were these redesigned in recent years or something?

 

timeless2

Vi Veri Veni Versum Vicus Vici

Admin Dude

Nov 29, 1999

1,366

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the Shadow Gallery

Aug 31, 2005

#2

• Aug 31, 2005

• #2

I do know you'll need to pick up a tamper-Torx bit for the screws.

 

J

jjtgiants

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Aug 3, 2005

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Aug 31, 2005

#3

• Aug 31, 2005

• #3

I don't know if they were redesigned or not, but I can tell you that when I replaced my intake plenum and throttle body I had to move the TPS around several time and it was so sensitive that when I'd finally get it right and then tighten it up the voltage would get messed up, which leads to idle problems.....but if your patient it's not bad. I also wouldn't say your "rotate" it, it's more like slightly moving it to one side or another.

You'll know when you get it right by looking at a voltage meter, it should read somewhere between ..97-1v. I used my diablo predator to measure the voltage on the TPS.

git-it-83 is right you'll have to get a torx bit for the screws. I've heard of some people having a hell of a time getting the screws out so they just end up buying a new TPS ($25) for the new throttle body.

Not sure if any of this helps, but Haynes sometimes doesn't give you all the details about TPS voltage and all that kind of stuff.

 

O

OC Stang

New Member

Jul 21, 2003

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Orange County, CA

Aug 31, 2005

#4

• Aug 31, 2005

• #4

Yeah, they can be a pain to get off. They use lock-tite on those screws. I had to cut mine off due to the screws striping.

 

0

'03GTinFLA

Member

May 29, 2004

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St. Petersburg, FL

Aug 31, 2005

#5

• Aug 31, 2005

• #5

So why are you replacing yours? Just curious. And like stated above, it's not so much of an actual rotation as it is just wiggle room. My bolts were no problem to remove. When I changed to Accufab TB/Plenum I bought an extra one just incase I had those problems of removing it. Well Ford doesn't take returns on anything electrical. So I'm out $50. On the brightside, I have an extra if I ever need one. Or if someone else does. hmmmmm

 

forpit2000gt

Founding Member

Jun 30, 2002

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Columbia, SC

Aug 31, 2005

#6

• Aug 31, 2005

• #6

do as the book says. tighten up the screws. crank the car and let it idle. it may take a few seconds to straighten out. if after a couple of minutes it doesn't idle properly, then start with the adjustment. the adjustment that people talk about is so fine that tightening a screw can change it.

 

04GT

New Member

Oct 8, 2003

284

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Southwest Ohio

Aug 31, 2005

#7

• Aug 31, 2005

• #7

[QUOTE='03GTinFLA]So why are you replacing yours? Just curious. And like stated above, it's not so much of an actual rotation as it is just wiggle room. My bolts were no problem to remove. When I changed to Accufab TB/Plenum I bought an extra one just incase I had those problems of removing it. Well Ford doesn't take returns on anything electrical. So I'm out $50. On the brightside, I have an extra if I ever need one. Or if someone else does. hmmmmm[/QUOTE]
To answer the question: I'm trying to DIY fix a problem I'm having. I don't feel like typing out the entire description, so here's a link to another thread on the subject if you want to know more...

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=576024

 

04GT

New Member

Oct 8, 2003

284

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Southwest Ohio

Sep 5, 2005

#8

• Sep 5, 2005

• #8

Replaced my TPS sensor today!

I must have got lucky b/c I didn't have all the problems that others have had. Took me about 15 min. Just applied slow constant pressure to loosen the screws. After putting the new one on, I checked the voltage with my Predator and it's at .99 Volts. Drove it about 10 miles with no problem.

Screws are philips head, not TORX. Not sure they were put on with loc-tite either. Didn't look like it to me.

Don't know if this is gonna fix my hesitation problem at WOT. Only time will tell. Should know something by next week.

 

K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?

10 Year Member

Mar 30, 2005

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Sep 5, 2005

#9

• Sep 5, 2005

• #9

Clean your engine

 

04GT

New Member

Oct 8, 2003

284

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Southwest Ohio

Sep 5, 2005

#10

• Sep 5, 2005

• #10

Kilgore Trout said:

Clean your engine

Click to expand...

I'd love to, only I'm sure I would ***** something up.

 

twogts4us

15 Year Member

Apr 1, 2004

4,188

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Dunedin, FL

Sep 5, 2005

#11

• Sep 5, 2005

• #11

Kilgore Trout said:

Clean your engine

Click to expand...

04GT said:

I'd love to, only I'm sure I would ***** something up.

Click to expand...

AGREED!!! Don't do it!!! I've seen too many threads were peoples' engines don't run right after getting water somewhere where it shouldn't be. I only use compressed air and wipe down what I can get to. Especially with this type of head design, you are really asking to get water down into the spark plug posts...not a good thing. So what if it ain't the prettiest engine in town...close the hood and let's run.