ah, i think you mis-read his question. you are talkin about doin a pilot bearing; he needs to do a TOB.TROJN007 said:Its not so bad if you have a transmission jack, and the right tools, getting the transmission out is the hardest part. Once that is gone all you have is the clutch, which isnt so bad. You'll need a slide hammer to get the bearing out itself. While you have all of this out depending on how old the clutch is i would consider changing it too. It took me and my dad a better part of 4 hours to change my chirping throwout bearing and clutch.
yeah, i know how it goes. i do the same thing all the time.....TROJN007 said:yeah, haha late night i guess, ahh it takes the same amount of work to get to both. A little easie to get to the TOB though
HISSIN50 said:ah, i think you mis-read his question. you are talkin about doin a pilot bearing; he needs to do a TOB.
the TOB is less work. drop the trans and take it off the input shaft.
Scott, that is some real nice info there. i bet that cuts the R/R time down quite considerably......mo_dingo said:Yeah, the TOB is MUCH MUCH EASIER!!!!
Just like he said above, slide the transmission out, take the TOB off of the clutch release lever (remembering how it came off), put wheel bearing grease on the surface that makes contact w/ the pressure plate fingers, and install it back in the release lever.
You can even leave the transmission on the jack if you want. Also, you could also leave the driveshaft in the transmission too. Just disconnect the D/S from the rear end (12mm 12point closed end wrench needed for the 4 bolts), let it hang while you remove the transmission.
Just have someone putting slight pressure on the d/s so it doesn't leak ATF all over the place.
HISSIN50 said:Scott, that is some real nice info there. i bet that cuts the R/R time down quite considerably......
i hear ya, Scott. we all have repair manuals. we all know that to do any project, we need to disconnect the battery, use approved jack stands, safety goggles, not be near any flames, use no products in pressurized cans, not lick solvents, and so on. but then the book leaves out the good stuff.mo_dingo said:
I get so irritated when I am having a problem with something, and I find a thread that begins to help, but then they leave out the important details out.
With the pains of doing a clutch with only 2 jackstands & most of the work by yourself, you learn tricks really fast.
HISSIN50 said:Scott. LMAO. did you know that if you get the orange stuff we clean our hands with, on your tongue, it will go numb.
you must have an iron gut - the smell of KK's makes me sick (ive never had one).
Chez - i dont know about the trans jack. i use a floor jack for removal (sometimes a piece of wood strapped to its platform works well). for install, i bench them back in.
as for the TOB lifespan, i bet others know better than i. it depends on the manufacturer and construction, how you drive (clutch in at lights for long periods, etc) and adjust it.
a lot of the fox guys really like dialing in 10 pounds of preload on the cable. this keeps the TOB pressed against the PP diaphram fingers. i would think this might wear the TOB more (as well as the diaphram fingers a little). i have no engagements issues (i would practice this if my point of engagement was right on the floor, but it is not).
so i guess im saying that there are too many variables to really forecast how long it will last, IMHO.