My clutch pedal is making a creaking noise, sounds like a lack of grease on the throwout bearing, anyone else had this prob? Any way of greasing thie Mofo without removing the tranny? I just did and engine swap and cant believe I didnt grease it while it was easy to get to 
Throwout bearing, creaking noise? Lack or grease maybe?
- Thread starter 1993SSP
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bryanrevans
New Member
Is it chirping when idleing in nuetral?And when you rest your foot on the clutch slighty it goes away??If so the clutch fork is bounceing alittle.I tighten down my clutch cable a little and goes away.Now I pulled the trans and bought a throwout bearing thinking I may run into a prob down the road...... nope did same thing!!!!!!!!!!
04sleeper
Founding Member
DirtyD916
Active Member
I have the same problem were it will chirp at neutral and it goes away when you rest your foot on the pedal. So your saying its not the bearing but the fork? How do i tighten down the cable and the fork?
04sleeper
Founding Member
It is the bearing making the noise. But if you have an adjustabe cable or firewall adjuster then you can take away some of the slack in the cable to give the bearing more tension. This should get rid of the noise but it might be only temporary.DirtyD916 said:
If you have the stock cable and want to take away some slack you could get some lock washers and bend them around the cable at the end to take up some slack. Yes it is very crude but it could get you by if needed.....
The bearing is the culprit! I tried some spray lithium grease on the back side of the bearing, solved it for about 15 minutes, then it started again, looks like i'll pull the tranny in a few days, the shaft of the tranny that the bearing slides on is dry as hell, at least its something minor!
bryanrevans
New Member
MahFiVeOh
Founding Member
the bearing retainer is supposed to be dry. the stock alum ones tend to get chewed up and the bearing can make some noise or the clutch engagement gets choppy and difficult. make sure you got a smooth surface for the TOB to slide on.bryanrevans said:
4dStang
Banned
HISSIN50 said:
I had a squeeky bearing that would stop after touching the pedal. I figured at first that it was the TB. I pulled the tranny, replaced the bearing with an OEM Ford bearing and within one day it started squeeking again. THEN, I realized that it could only be one other thing, the retainer was warped. Later I found out that the clutch,tb, etc had been changed 3 months earlier at the Ford dealer. That was 2 TB in 4 months. I ordered a Ford steel bearing retainer, pulled and flushed the tranny, added the STEEL retainer, and new bearing and HD ram clutch kit. Has not squeeked since.
My advice is to buy the steel bearing retainer and new seal either from Ford parts or other places like 50resto.com (latemodel restoration supply) and that will fix a squeeky bearing.
If the squeek is only while depressing the clutch pedal, and does not squeek during idle, it is the clutch cable. I have replaced mine 3 times. They just suck, especially with EQ length headers that get them hot and melt the rubber into the cable shaft. I have since re-routed my cable as to not melt it any more.
CB
4dStang said:
good stuff, CB. right on!
i think someone makes a longer cable (made for LT's) - for future ref if you burn another cable (though it sounds like you got it covered).
some people go through TOB's like like candy. what TOB flavor did you go with that worked well? some of them are plastic and some of the metal ones just dont hold up. im always curious to hear what brand works well for people.
4dStang
Banned
Daggar said:
The first one I got was a standard Ford bearing from the dealer. The second (non-squeeking) bearing was the same part number as the first and it came from the FRPP King Cobra clutch kit. Just buy a good TB because having to rip the tranny out AGAIN sucks!!!!!! Use a good $50 (Ford) steel retainer and a real steel Ford parts bearing. The bearing was like $32 bucks but its good sheet. I am just glad I don't have to pull that tranny until I put my TKO (I'm just dreaming now) in.
Side note:
I still won't pay anyone to pull my tranny. Last time it cost $450 to RR only because I was too lazy to pull it via jack stand. So I got bigger jackstands and got it perfected now for removal and re-entry. It still sucks though. but at least an avg person could do it after doing it once. have fun!
CB
Ive got a T5Z, less than 1000 miles on it, so i know the retainer isnt the problem, and the clutch,tb and pressure plate is a ford motorsport with the same amount of miles on it. There was no problems until the motor swap Im almost positive that there is supposed to be a slight film of grease on the retainer shaft
morrisracing
New Member
Hanlon Motorsports is where I ordered my steel retainer from. They told me to put a thin film of high temp wheel bearing grease on the retainer for the tob to slide on.
right guys - i am sorry if i mislead you with my above post. as with input shafts and other retainers, a thin amount of grease is good.
some guys have gobbed grease in there, or sprayed wildly with a can of lithium, etc (though the fork/inspection hole). that i would not do - one does not want so much grease that contamination is an issue.
i should have said it is lubed upon installation (as i do with about every part! LOL), and then should not]/i] require future greasing.
my bad for the way i phrased it before.
CB, thanks for the experiences with which TOB's work well!
i am leaning toward a KC next time, so the one that comes with it sounds like it would work.
some guys have gobbed grease in there, or sprayed wildly with a can of lithium, etc (though the fork/inspection hole). that i would not do - one does not want so much grease that contamination is an issue.
i should have said it is lubed upon installation (as i do with about every part! LOL), and then should not]/i] require future greasing.
my bad for the way i phrased it before.
CB, thanks for the experiences with which TOB's work well!
i am leaning toward a KC next time, so the one that comes with it sounds like it would work.
